Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 31 to 45 of 60
  1. #31
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,541

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    How did you set up the angle for the internal collet chuck taper? I happen to be making something along those lines ATM. I thought about case hardening but I'm hoping for the amount of use I will give it its not needed?

    Stuart
    I've found for an ER collet system the angle does not have to be spot on to the last minute, so setting it up on the compound will give a good enough result. (I once cut an ER chuck cavity at 7.5 degrees rather than 8 and it worked although I recut at the correct angle when I realised soon after what I'd done.)
    If things are done properly case hardening would be unnecessary for the use it is likely to see. The collect should not rotate in the chuck and pressure will be evenly distributed inside the chuck

    Michael

  2. #32
    Ueee's Avatar
    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    39
    Posts
    4,515

    Default

    Hi Stuart,
    To set the compound angle I simply clocked the angle of a bought er chuck in the spindles Morse taper. I checked the taper with a collet and some marko, with a cutter shank in the collet so it would not deform. And its too late.....I already bought Greg's c1 waldown......

    Hi RC,
    I would have groumd the taper again but was worried about the thread ending up slightly oval and having no way of fixing it. I'll leave it soft I think.
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,088

    Default

    Hi Michael,
    Thanks lol Thats pretty much the exactly opposite what I was thinking. I'd thought it would need to be spot on or it would only grip "one end".

    Hi Ewan,
    I dont have a spindle mount chuck, only a flange mount, which isnt what you could call spot on. I'll use it and check against a collet on ground bar between centers. That as a little finger crossing sounds like it will get me "close enough"

    What you could have done (I'm told) is leave the thread area over size. Case harden(without quenching), machine case off thread area, heat, quench, machine thread, grind taper.

    Stuart

  4. #34
    Ueee's Avatar
    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    39
    Posts
    4,515

    Default

    Hi Stuart,
    I was thinking along the same lines, only maybe putting something on the thread area to stop the powder from penetrating the area, or just carefully putting the powder in the bore only. Of course if there is any carbon in the stock, like most bright bar has, it will probably end up too hard to cut with hss anyway.....maybe it could be roughed and ground with the tpg..... now there's a challenge....
    If you watch a series of YouTube vids by doubleboost (the guy with the crazy jordie accent) he has 4 vids on making an er32 chuck, and shows another way of clocking a collet.

    Cheers,
    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Age
    74
    Posts
    5,080

    Default

    Hi Ewan,

    Looks good, nice to see a job come together.

    On the heat treatment, I'd leave that job just as it is... but, when you get time try an experimental case hardening with a similar shape, BUT, do it in the following order
    1. rough machine oversize,
    2. stress relieve heating cycle, ( heat, hold, slow cool )
    3. finish machining,
    4. case harden.

    Regards
    Ray

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,541

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Thats pretty much the exactly opposite what I was thinking. I'd thought it would need to be spot on or it would only grip "one end".
    True, but over a 40mm length the difference between 7.5 degrees and 8 degrees is 0.35mm. While I would advocate getting it as close to 8 degrees as you can, in real terms I don't know that you are going to notice if it was out slightly.

    Michael

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,088

    Default

    Hi Ray,
    Would you want a case hardened thread though?

    Hi Michael,
    Sorry I butchered my answer, I was trying to agree with you as you had been there and done it, but the "close enough" comment slipped down a little. I will get it as close as I can and see how it goes, I just wont lose sleep over it.

    Stuart

  8. #38
    Ueee's Avatar
    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    39
    Posts
    4,515

    Default

    A good point Michael, i just thought like Stu, the closer the better, hence the check with the marko.

    All the parts are now clean and primed. The head itself is scraped on 3 of its sides, and where the spindle thrusts behind the front bearing. It was really nice to see once i pulled it from the tub and washed it down, all these scraping marks just appeared.....
    Now for bog and sanding, bog and sanding......

    Cheers,
    Ew
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Age
    74
    Posts
    5,080

    Default

    Hi Ewan,

    Love looking at your work! the projects are certainly moving along nicely. We've got the Meca rotary table up to about the same stage.. hoping to get some colour on it in the coming days. I reckon the way you are going you might finish before we do.

    Can't wait to see it finished.


    Regards
    Ray

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,541

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RayG View Post
    We've got the Meca rotary table up to about the same stage.. hoping to get some colour on it in the coming days.
    You doing a pinky/ mauve colour too Ray, or is that a QLD thing?

    Michael

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Age
    74
    Posts
    5,080

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    You doing a pinky/ mauve colour too Ray, or is that a QLD thing?

    Michael
    Hi Michael,

    Not wishing to interrupt Ewan's thread, the paint ( if it ever arrives! ) is Industrial Equipment Coatings | Valspar GI 2 pack epoxy colour is RAL 6011
    It's pretty close to the original Meca colour, and of course is the standard "Deckel Reseda Green" so this is a bit of a trial run for the Deckel Restoration Project...

    Hi Ewan, What paint are you planning on using for the dividing head?

    Regards
    Ray

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    near Rockhampton
    Posts
    6,216

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    You doing a pinky
    It's LIGHT RED!!!!!

    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

  13. #43
    Ueee's Avatar
    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    39
    Posts
    4,515

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RayG View Post
    Hi Ewan, What paint are you planning on using for the dividing head?
    Hi Ray,
    I was just going to use the same as what i did Mlle in, Reseda green rust guard epoxy enamel. I am thinking i might trial putting a clear over it though. As much as i see the merits in 2 pac i have had enough of mixing it and cleaning cleaning out guns etc. It is also far harder to repair properly if the time comes.
    All the clears i have used also tend to be tougher than a pigmented colour in the same paint range (my experiance is mostly in poly and acid-catylist), whether it will apply to the epoxy enamel or not i don't know.

    Cheers,
    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  14. #44
    Ueee's Avatar
    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    39
    Posts
    4,515

    Default

    With some nice weather and so many things on the go i thought i would try and get this finished. I had some problems with the topcoat not gripping the high build primmer properly and getting wrinkles when i put the second coat on......No clear either, the only stuff i could find was satin.

    Anyway, i managed to get most of the spraying finished today, yes it has ended up gray as i didn't have enough green left.

    I also machined the shaft down for fitting gears to for differential indexing and spiral cutting. It was 1 1/2" but since Mlle's shaft is 20mm i made it the same. What i didn't do is rough it off then let it cool before taking the final cuts. When i machined it it measured 19.995, same as Mlle's, but now it is cool its more like 19.983. Works out to be around 45 deg difference in the shaft to get that change.....i didn't think it was that hot.....Bump lathe coolant up the list......

    Cheers,
    Ew
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Ballarat
    Age
    65
    Posts
    3,103

    Default

    Hi Ewan,
    first up, bugga on the expansion from heat. Amazing the difference it makes.
    Second, I am convinced that while the rest of us get 'shed time', you get 'house time'. Am I correct.

    Phil

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Victoria Dividing Head(40:1) Manual
    By AJOE123 in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 17th Feb 2022, 05:52 PM
  2. dividing plates, dividing head
    By eskimo in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 22
    Last Post: 4th Aug 2012, 06:17 PM
  3. Hercus Dividing Head
    By Anorak Bob in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 3rd Jan 2011, 09:20 PM
  4. dividing head
    By tanii51 in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 18th Oct 2010, 09:32 AM
  5. Rotary table Vs Dividing head
    By Grryphon in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 10th Aug 2006, 12:10 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •