Thread: Choosing a metal lathe

Originally Posted by nearnexus

I'm afraid I don't, and never have, subscribed to the bigger is better attitude with lathes.

That's like telling a watch maker he should be using a 14" lathe - it's total BS.

Buy what is large enough for the work you intend to do.

End of story.

I quite agree. I use my Chipmaster far more than I use my Monarch CY. It's a nicer machine, size-wise, easier to reach over the chuck etc etc. Speeds up to 3000 rpm mean I can get the proper speed for cutting small stuff held in collets.

OTOH if I want to make up a sawmill shaft from 40mm solid bar 600mm long, with welded flange that needs facing, I'm buggered. That's a job for the Monarch. Or the propellor shaft tube for my boat - 1.2m of 50NB heavy wall pipe with a 125mm flange welded to the inboard end that needed facing flat after welding. Monarch.

So as I've said before, first sit down and work out the maximum work envelope you expect to need to machine the stuff you're interested in. Then, ideally, go up one size. Find a friend with the bigger lathe to swap favours with on the rare occasion you need to.

But the spindle bore *is* a big deal. You can get by with a shorter bed lathe if it has a decent spindle bore.

PDW

Thanks to everyone who has responded to my basically naive questions here.
Sincere thanks for your responses which have helped me considerably.
I have placed a deposit on a AL50ga today and while I am struggling with buyers remorse at the moment--wondering if I should have held out for the al250g, I suspect I am now on the right track for my real and not fantacized needs.
One thing I have not been able to ascertain is whether the al50ga is capable of turning stainless steel?? I suspect if it is, that only very light cuts can be made but that will be fine--I have time and are patient.
So my question is---" Is it possible to turn stainless steel using n al50ga, from your experience.
Thanks in anticipation
regards Brian

Originally Posted by Briangoldcoast

Thanks to everyone who has responded to my basically naive questions here.
Sincere thanks for your responses which have helped me considerably.
I have placed a deposit on a AL50ga today .
So my question is---" Is it possible to turn stainless steel using n al50ga, from your experience.
Thanks in anticipation
regards Brian

I strongly suggest you join the Yahoo 9x20 lathe group seeing as you have decided to buy this model lathe.

It's a great group for beginners, they are very helpful people, that lathe has been around for decades, and the group has a very strong following.

They can answer any question you care to field regarding this unit.

9x20Lathe : 9x20Lathe

I hope you enjoy your purchase.

Cheers

Rob

Good choice, excellent lathe. S/S is not a problem, I turned a couple of master cylinders from 25mm S/S a few years ago. I cut a 26 TPI thread on one end and tapped a 3/8" UNC thread in the other end. I then bored a 5/8" hole for the piston and seal to run in and I managed closer tolerances than the original mild steel cylinder. I also made a number of other S/S parts over the years in both 304 and 316 and had no problems, the master cylinders were slow going though.

+1 on the S/S, I turn more 304 stainless on my SM920V than mild steel, or anything else for that matter.

Sharp and correctly shaped HSS and the correct speed is the go.

I find it actually easier to get a good finish on 304 than on 10xx mild steel.

I use 1214 in preference to the 10xx.

General rule of thumb for stainless steel turning is 'slow speed, high feed'

Phil

Well to tidy up this thread I should report I had the opportunity to change ,my mind and 'bought up' to the AL250g.
I picked it up Friday in the rain and cold and drive 2 hours each way. It's on the back of my truck now while I measure and sketch to make a stand before I hire something to lift it.
I saw how some sensible guys bolted their lathes to the stand while it rested on its back then used the lifting device to tip it back onto its 'legs'.
I had been planning to bolt the stand down first then lift the lathe with lifting straps and lower it into place. In reflection I am now wondering how difficult that might be on my own, trying to line up studs and bolts.
It's given me something to think about.
regards Brian

My lathe was a bit heavier than yours at around 300kgs. I was told by H&F to sling it from the chuck and through the last gap in the bed at the tailstock end. Lift it once and the drop it back so it can self level and then lift it again and it will be balanced. They said this is how they lift all their lathes. By and large, this worked for me but recently after some recent unexpected lifting experience, I have changed this. I wrap one sling around the headstock base and poke the ends up though a gap in the bed. I do something similar at the tailstock end but might need to add some chain to the sling if it is short as the balance point is roughly above the lathe chuck. I tried an engine leveller and these work OK too but I was struggling for clearance in my shed so I deleted it.

Your machine is lighter than mine and in my experience can get the lifting point balanced, you won't have any problems doing it yourself. When I took delivery of mine, I lifted it with an endless chain in the carport at one end of the house onto the stand and it was not balanced so I had some troubles but got it on the stand OK. Then I went back to pick up my mill and I got their good oil on lifting from H&F, hired an engine crane and followed their advice and it worked pretty well. The hard part was getting it through an 820mm doorway as when lowering it, the sling could not roll as it went down so it bounced off the sling for the last inch or so because I was pushing it into the doorway a lot further than it wanted to go.

Drop in Monday arvo on your way home after a 4:00PM and I can show you more. I am 10 minutes from H&F on the Gold Coat side...

Just to add. The key to lifting the lathe when on it side is to make sure the lifting points are on the top side so it can roll upright. Eg. Poke the straps out of the gaps in the bed of the lathe!

Thanks Rod,
this is sage advice and I will certainly make an arrangement with you to meet and check out how you lifted your lathe and learn from it before I shift mine.
I'm a bit strapped for time at the moment, as I said my wife is going in for surgery on Thursday 28, but second to her the lathe is high on the adjenda.
Thanks for the offer
regards Brian

Originally Posted by rodweb

My lathe was a bit heavier than yours at around 300kgs. I was told by H&F to sling it from the chuck and through the last gap in the bed at the tailstock end. Lift it once and the drop it back so it can self level and then lift it again and it will be balanced. They said this is how they lift all their lathes. By and large, this worked for me but recently after some recent unexpected lifting experience, I have changed this. I wrap one sling around the headstock base and poke the ends up though a gap in the bed. I do something similar at the tailstock end but might need to add some chain to the sling if it is short as the balance point is roughly above the lathe chuck. I tried an engine leveller and these work OK too but I was struggling for clearance in my shed so I deleted it.

Your machine is lighter than mine and in my experience can get the lifting point balanced, you won't have any problems doing it yourself. When I took delivery of mine, I lifted it with an endless chain in the carport at one end of the house onto the stand and it was not balanced so I had some troubles but got it on the stand OK. Then I went back to pick up my mill and I got their good oil on lifting from H&F, hired an engine crane and followed their advice and it worked pretty well. The hard part was getting it through an 820mm doorway as when lowering it, the sling could not roll as it went down so it bounced off the sling for the last inch or so because I was pushing it into the doorway a lot further than it wanted to go.

Drop in Monday arvo on your way home after a 4:00PM and I can show you more. I am 10 minutes from H&F on the Gold Coat side...