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14th Jun 2013, 11:15 AM #1
Help With Drill Press Chuck Removal
http://www.woodworkforums.com/f155/h...emoval-172418/
Copying my post to this forum in the hope of capturing some mertalworker experience and knowledge of this problem.
I'm hoping I am not the first person to ever have the arbor jammed in the spindle!!Hitch
You got to have a dream, if you don't have a dream, how you gonna have a dream come true?
Oscar Hammerstein ll
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14th Jun 2013, 12:58 PM #2Diamond Member
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As has already been said, make sure your drift is smooth so its going where it needs to rather than catching on the outside. Maybe grind the drift back to a more shallow angle. Maybe case harden the drift so you are sure its driving rather than catching, most generic drifts tend to be quite soft.
If none of the above work add some heat.
Finally, if you have an XY table put an endmill in the chuck and mill a piece of steel. That's guaranteed to work. Keep clean underwear handy for when it does come loose.
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14th Jun 2013, 02:22 PM #3Most Valued Member
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DON'T add heat.
Jeezus, no way should you do that on a drill press spindle - it will screw the bearings for starters.
It's most unusual that it wont drive out with the wedge.
Try using a big heavy "G" clamp (or a small vice) to drive the wedge in behind the morse (suitably pad the spindle with brass or copper plates).
While screwing tension onto the "G" clamp give the back of the chuck some gentle downwards taps with a steel hammer).
Hopefully that should break it free.
Cheers
Rob
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14th Jun 2013, 02:31 PM #4Most Valued Member
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14th Jun 2013, 02:42 PM #5Most Valued Member
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14th Jun 2013, 02:45 PM #6Most Valued Member
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This works great.
Welcome to: Loctite® Freeze & Release
(well it did the one time I have needed to)
Stuart
p.s. freezing spray (added so I can find the link next time)
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14th Jun 2013, 03:03 PM #7Most Valued Member
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Rob, I think Bob may have been referring to the original thread where I suggested the gentle heat.
Stuart, what's the largest component you've been able to shift by freezing? I've never tried it on a rusted part and only ever used it with shrink fits, and then not on especially big components. The big components simply had too much thermal mass, and popping them in the freezer was a better option. But I really like the idea of freezing rather than heating, as with the latter it's easy to go too far and start affecting paint/seals/etc.
A possibly cheaper and more accessible source of freeze spray is an electronics parts supplier like Jaycar. We used to use a ton of it when I was working in that field, and I still use it occasionally now.
Pete
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14th Jun 2013, 03:04 PM #8Golden Member
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Help with drill press chuck removal
Hi hitch,
Years ago I had a similar problem to yours. If you look at how the drift works trying to dislodge the taper you will see that it is only applying force on one side and not directly down.Often the taper is too coarse. What I did was to make up two wedges of equal shallow tapers and insert one from each side with the tapered faces sliding against one another and then drive one then the other while holding a heavy dolly against the undriven one. This will stop the tapers from digging in to the quill/taper and apply all of the force downwards. You should not need to use heat. Hope this makes sense.
BoB
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14th Jun 2013, 03:14 PM #9Most Valued Member
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http://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/pr...2/#post1407944
Granted not a large sample
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14th Jun 2013, 07:16 PM #10
Me too
Hi
I had the same problem with my camel back . The chuck had not been removed since Robert Menzies was the PM .
Be careful, I almost ruined the spindle trying to get the chuck out . I actually bent the spindle , It took me ages to re-align it to a good runout . I used the wedge , but it somehow bent the spindle, I must have applied too much force . I used mild heat and I feel that this helped a great deal . It came out eventually
Mike
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14th Jun 2013, 10:22 PM #11Senior Member
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Chuck removal wedge (drift)
Agree the drifts that come with most machines are soft and useless, and tend to deform and jam. I have a few wedges round the shop which I have cut with an angle grinder from pieces of car spring leaf, and ground the edges to a curved profile to match the form of the spindle slots. Have made the taper a bit longer than the stock wedge and can always shift a stubborn taper with a smack from a copper hammer. Easy to make and trouble free.
Combustor.Old iron in the Outback, Kimberley WA.
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15th Jun 2013, 12:15 PM #12
Thanks everyone for taking the time to provide input to my problem. They have all been educational and helpful. Off to the shed now to see what I can do. The drift I am using is hard steel but will start today with making (if I can) a lower profile drift to try and exert more uniform downward pressure. I will update later if my sanity is still in tact!
Hitch
You got to have a dream, if you don't have a dream, how you gonna have a dream come true?
Oscar Hammerstein ll
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15th Jun 2013, 03:28 PM #13
Just an update. I made a low angle drift that fits snugly across the tang at the end of the arbor and after many attempts, even using my trusty 3Lb hammer, all I have achieved is to make a trench across the tang and spreading it. Guess that will possibly make it even more difficult to get out. Can't help feeling that it has been glued in with Loctite 406 or similar.
My thinking at the moment is that I should take the spindle out and take it to an engineering shop to see what they can do. I imagine most engineering shops would have equipment capable of extracting even a very stubborn arbor such as this. Is this a correct?Hitch
You got to have a dream, if you don't have a dream, how you gonna have a dream come true?
Oscar Hammerstein ll
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15th Jun 2013, 04:31 PM #14Diamond Member
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If you have the spindle out, ie no seals or bearings to worry about, then you can apply more heat to the situation. Heat will also break down loctite if you are unlucky enough to have a loctited arbor.
Is the aim of this exercise just to change the chuck? If so, with a ball joint separating tool or similar, you should be able to remove the chuck from the arbor and replace it with a new one.
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15th Jun 2013, 04:32 PM #15Most Valued Member
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Possibly correct depending on the type or size of shop you take it too.
Probably depends on whether you want to save sleeve or tool in it.
Hopefully it has a hollow spindle and it can be pushed out ( quick and easy) rather than the cost of machining or freezing/heating.
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