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  1. #1
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    Default Another "how would you make it" question

    I was thinking about side lock milling tool holders (ISO40 or similar) last night and concluded that making them should not be difficult if your lathe was equipped with a taper turning device. However, the bit that I am still thinking about is how to get the bore concentric with the taper.
    The two methods I have come up with both start with that bore -
    • Drill and finish the bore and then put in a close fitting plug with a centre hole in it. Turn up the outside. This method ends up with the small end of the taper next to the chuck
    • Drill and finish the bore. Drill and tap for the sidelock grubscrews. Chuck up a dowel pin of the right size in a 4 jaw so it is concentric and then attach the holder blank. Turn up the outside. This method ends up with the small end of the taper at the tail stock


    I should point out that I'm unlikely to make any of these for a very long time as the list is already long and I can buy second hand holders cheaply, but it has me wondering. Has anyone else thought about this or even made some? Can anyone think of another method (or find holes in one or the other methods I've suggested)?

    Michael

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    I think about it frequently as I wouldn't mind making some 30 taper collets. Achieving concentricity has always left me stumped. RC made a 30 taper arbor for his mill a while back. It would be interesting to hear how he went about it.

    Bob

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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    Can anyone think of another method (or find holes in one or the other methods I've suggested)?

    Michael
    Turn the OD to completion. Bore a decent pilot hole. Transfer to mill, rig up a boring bar on the table and bore to finished size in situ. Vertical mill, swivel the head parallel to table or feed on Z axis.

    Simple way of guaranteeing concentricity.

    PDW

  4. #4
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    Thank you Peter. The fog has cleared.

  5. #5
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Quote Originally Posted by PDW View Post
    Turn the OD to completion. Bore a decent pilot hole. Transfer to mill, rig up a boring bar on the table and bore to finished size in situ. Vertical mill, swivel the head parallel to table or feed on Z axis.

    Simple way of guaranteeing concentricity.

    PDW
    Great idea, I was going to suggest making a spindle nose adapter, but that saves the work. Real easy on my machine due to the head style. Just bolt the lathes toolpost to the table. Filed for future reference!
    Cheers
    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  6. #6
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    Default

    People with decent sized horizontal/vertical mills might keep in mind that they also have a sizeable face plate lathe as well. Especially those mills with ISO tapers as you can bolt a custom face plate directly to the spindle nose using the threaded holes already present. In fact it wouldn't be hard to make an adaptor up to use a threaded face plate.

    Take the compound or whatever off your lathe, pack it to height with blocks, the knee, whatever, and go to town. For a facing job, you've got power feed on X. Angled cuts, the compound.

    Not my idea and no personal need as I have a 28" swing capability on a faceplate but one I've filed away just in case.

    PDW

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by PDW View Post
    Turn the OD to completion. Bore a decent pilot hole. Transfer to mill, rig up a boring bar on the table and bore to finished size in situ. Vertical mill, swivel the head parallel to table or feed on Z axis.

    Simple way of guaranteeing concentricity.

    PDW
    Darn it Peter! Do you have to come up with a good answer straight away? I was expecting all sorts of imaginative suggestions before we got an answer as good as that one. Now what will we do for our afternoon's entertainment?

    Michael

  8. #8
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    Yes I just finished doing exactly the same thing last week. Cut the tapers (between centres in my case as I was cutting MT3 tapers), then transfer to the lathe headstock, or in your case the mill, for the bore/spindle to be machined. Machining in situ will guarantee it will then be virtually as accurate as your own machine. Just another reason why making one's own tooling often makes good sense; the end result may be more accurate than a commercial version and the cost is typically a bit of steel and some time.

    Regarding accuracy, a tip is to mark both the lathe/mill's spindle and the tooling you make out of it. Replacing the tooling in the same position and much of the machine's inherent runout will be removed.

    Pete

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete F View Post
    Yes I just finished doing exactly the same thing last week. Cut the tapers (between centres in my case as I was cutting MT3 tapers), then transfer to the lathe headstock, or in your case the mill, for the bore/spindle to be machined. Machining in situ will guarantee it will then be virtually as accurate as your own machine. Just another reason why making one's own tooling often makes good sense; the end result may be more accurate than a commercial version and the cost is typically a bit of steel and some time.

    Regarding accuracy, a tip is to mark both the lathe/mill's spindle and the tooling you make out of it. Replacing the tooling in the same position and much of the machine's inherent runout will be removed.

    Pete
    My old Denbigh univ hor mill is set up same way swing a 14'' four jaw chuck out of the arbor shaft is no 4 morse.used this as had no ready facility to machine big swing items did my 18'' dia traction engine wheels on it tool post mounted on the hor iz table at centre height only sacrifice is there is no hollow facility as taper adaptor has draw bolt.I machined the adaptor to fit the chuck same way.When I got a Bridgeport head to suit and set up I did the same method to make a fly cutter for cylinder heads. no 2 morse a little frail for a land rover fly wheel single point tool but modified it so it collars into vert mill spindle.again adaptor made with tool indifferent spots to make fly wheel to spindle adaptor is amazing what you can come up with when you desperate to get a job done and your wallet is thin.Also made lots single point fly cutters different diameters.Used the bridgeport head on its side for line boring and centre drilling large shafting too big for lathe and steady. also adapted a warren brown valve seat insert cutter to cut cylinder heads for valve inserts made inserts from old window weights have found some of these with hi nickel content wont rust machined stuff takes weeks to go rusty on the scrap pile. am an old scrounger and love recycling if i can John.
    Last edited by j.ashburn; 30th May 2013 at 03:44 PM. Reason: spelling

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