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17th May 2013, 09:05 AM #1Member
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Broken Bandsaw fence repair help needed.
Hi All, first post in the Metal working section my hammer bandsaw fence broke can anyone suggest a way to fix it? The metal isnt magnetic so I am guessing its Aluminium? but not sure.
The broken piece is about 10mm square.
thanks
Joe
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17th May 2013, 09:26 AM #2Most Valued Member
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17th May 2013, 09:39 AM #3Senior Member
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Looks like it could be die cast another way profile 2 pieces plate alloy or m steel and laminate the broken side at same time make 4 pieces and do both sides. I get stuff like this from lots home handy men here ofay with wood but scared of chopping a bit of metal.Just for info if it helps. John.
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17th May 2013, 01:12 PM #4Most Valued Member
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Joe I looked up 'hammer bandsaw. pictures to get a better idea of the configuration and function of the fence, diecast aluminum is fickle stuff to weld successfully and even if successful it would still need to be machined if you wanted a nice fit on the adjustment rail/bar.
I don't know if I looked at the same model as your machine so a couple of good photo's with the fence in place on the machine would help.
Does the repair need to take into consideration that it broke because it is a poor design, or did it suffer an impact, or did you over tighten the locking screw, or did it break when just using it ?
I think that a repair to this would require a bush with a large flange that could be bolted to side of the broken bracket, the bush would be bored to suit the adjustment rail and the slot milled out to clear the adjustment bar mounting bracket.
The fence could be secured flat on its face on the mill table, there should be enough hole there to pick up the centre and then bore it to suit the OD of the new bush, then face off the outside surface to ensure that the flange sits flat and the bush is in alignment.
No doubt there are a few ways to repair it, but a first glance that is what I am thinking, I would also take into consideration what John said about doing both sides if this is a problem with under engineering.
If that is the case it might even be easier/better to make a whole new bracket and bolt your fence to that.
How much is a new fence ?
shed
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17th May 2013, 10:57 PM #5
I think that there is a fair scope to 'sister' a metal plate to the outer faces of the casting, there seems to be enough space to make a pair of plates and get 2 or 3 three screws or rivets into each plate to secure them. Can you give an approximate idea of the mounting rail/hole diameter, as it would give an indication of scale.
I think that trying to add plates inside would overly complicate the process due to the reinforcing web running parallel to the mounting rail.I used to be an engineer, I'm not an engineer any more, but on the really good days I can remember when I was.
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18th May 2013, 12:40 AM #6
I'd say there's a good chance that it's some kind of zinc diecast alloy; in which case, some of these:
Durafix Australia - Aluminium Fluxless Repair Rods
are the go (you've probably seen them at the woodwork shows, with some dude using them on aluminium cans).
Even if it's cast aluminium, that stuff is still a good solution unless you have a good TIG welder handy.
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18th May 2013, 05:23 PM #7Dave J Guest
I agree with what others have said about bolting a couple of steel plates either side. I have a table saw myself with the same design but mine is made of heavy cast iron.
I don't know what they where thinking making it that thin and of that material.
I was going to say aluminium plate, but with that design it wants to push the slim pieces apart and aluminium will bend under that pressure. If you have room and can have the aluminium plates taller it will have more strength in those smaller pieces and you will get away it. Aluminium is easier to work with if you don't have the heavy machinery to drill/bore out the holes.
Dave
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21st May 2013, 09:20 PM #8
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22nd May 2013, 04:31 PM #9
I am repairing a table saw fence of similar configuration currently.
It is cast iron and the rail is 1 1/4" dia.
I have found in the scrap a large steel washer about 5mm thick.
Double faced and bored this in the lathe then cut in two and bolt on both outside faces using unbrako dome heads.
HJimcracks for the rich and/or wealthy. (aka GKB '88)
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23rd May 2013, 01:19 PM #10Member
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Hi all, thanks everyone for the replies, just heard back from Felder/Hammer they are replacing it free of charge .
I have to say that's fantastic service as the machine is from 2008!
I'll keep the old broken unit and look at welding some plate on it one day (when I can justify some welding equipment).
thanks
joez
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