Thread: Restoring a Weir boiler feed pump

I need to make a few components for the plunger lubricator that came standard with these pumps. They are used to give a shot of oil to the steam chest and cylinder at periods during its run cycle.
I only have the lubricator body and lucky for me we had one at work that i have ummm 'borrowed' so I know what bits I need to make

Here are the lubricators and clearly mine is on the right.
DSC_1460.JPG

These are the bits I need to make
DSC_1470.jpg DSC_1474.JPG

Here is the non return valve components of which I will only need to make the screwed cap.
DSC_1481.jpg

Phil

I also checked the tapers on the piston rod. I smeared a bit of Marcos blue on the tapers and checked the respective pistons on their ends.
The results were quite satisfactory which now puts the spotlight on the scoring in the area that runs through the (overtightened) glands.
It should be ok for 'working clothes'
I am confident though that I will be calling on you John about the stainless shafting. I will make a new one while I have this one out to make sure I get the distance between the pistons right and to have a new one just in case the scoring is not ok in new gland packing.

These pics are the water piston and its end of the rod
DSC_1496.JPG DSC_1497.JPG

And the steam end
DSC_1499.JPG DSC_1501.JPG

Phil

Fascinating Phil. When ever I look at a complex bit of machinery I always wonder why things were designed as they were.Obviously the designer knew what they were doing but at times it confuses the rest of us - this pump is no exception!

With the valve that you heated, when you say it changed shape does that mean you need to make a new one, skim the old one or has it returned to how it should be?

Michael

Originally Posted by Michael G

Fascinating Phil. When ever I look at a complex bit of machinery I always wonder why things were designed as they were.Obviously the designer knew what they were doing but at times it confuses the rest of us - this pump is no exception!

With the valve that you heated, when you say it changed shape does that mean you need to make a new one, skim the old one or has it returned to how it should be?

Michael

Hi Michael,
Any corrosion that takes place in a captive area like between the valve and its housing, just grabs the valve and makes it a little tighter than it should be. By applying a 'little heat' it did two things, it relaxed the valve a small amount and broke the 'bond' that the corrosion created. I then sprayed the Rost off around the valve and waited (more of that damn patience ) a few minutes and dragged it out. Sometimes the corrosion is so effective the bond can become like one piece of metal. This valve was like that. The plug in the bottom of the pump is the same .
Being the explainer from hell, I hope like all get out that that I have explained it goodly enough.
I haven't put enough heat in it to permanently change the shape of the valve so it will be ok. It is very easy to get 'heavy handed' with heat. I try to use no heat at all so that if I am teaching an apprentice, they don't get to use the destructive powers that seem to be naturally gifted to apprentices

Phil

Originally Posted by Steamwhisperer

Hi John,
the thought has crossed my mind several times but the problem is that the all thread is screwed into a brass thread and by tapping on the head will tend to bounce the thread, although minimally, in that area. I have found in the past that this is the best way to strip a thread.
I keep the thread loaded up and tap the plate I am using as a bridge. This way the shock is less severe and I stand a better chance of not stripping the thread in the valve, although it is perilously close now with how tight the nut is when trying to pull it out of it's housing.
If I strip the thread I will have no option but to destroy it to get it out and I am big fan of original components
I have lost count of how many times I have gone to give a big hit on the head of the all thread but something always seems to stop me at the last second.
There is a large area of grip on the perimeter of the valve which is causing the problem, add that to the corrosion that has crept in and it becomes incredible how much they can hang on
I have a little saying that I go by, "if someone put it there, then I can get it out of there" (it just takes a monumental amount of care).
I had another go tonight and got a bit over-zealous. I stopped when I felt something about to give way, and it wasn't the valve
The 16 oz'er might have to stay in the box for a bit as it normally only comes out when there is damage to be done . I might stick to the old copper/rawhide for the moment.
I am also struggling with one of the two drain plugs under the pump. It looks like the plug and the bottom of the pump chamber have become one
Attachment 267868 Attachment 267869

Here is a pic of the other side of the plug
Attachment 267870

Phil

Hi Phil,just back to the all thread puller must be betting old timers. try a step down on the all thread to the the valve thread gives you a feel for yield. also i do some times use thrust bearings between washers used every thing from torrington to roller ones out of auto transmissions it eases the torque needed to put apply to the nut and gives a feel as well use them often pulling liners sleeves diesel enginss. Lots of L N E here made upon the spot [Late Night Engineering] John.

Originally Posted by Steamwhisperer

Hi Michael,
Any corrosion that takes place in a captive area like between the valve and its housing, just grabs the valve and makes it a little tighter than it should be. By applying a 'little heat' it did two things, it relaxed the valve a small amount and broke the 'bond' that the corrosion created. I then sprayed the Rost off around the valve and waited (more of that damn patience ) a few minutes and dragged it out. Sometimes the corrosion is so effective the bond can become like one piece of metal. This valve was like that. The plug in the bottom of the pump is the same .
Being the explainer from hell, I hope like all get out that that I have explained it goodly enough.
I haven't put enough heat in it to permanently change the shape of the valve so it will be ok. It is very easy to get 'heavy handed' with heat. I try to use no heat at all so that if I am teaching an apprentice, they don't get to use the destructive powers that seem to be naturally gifted to apprentices

Phil

Don't you just love em [apprentices]had a fair share of ''phillistines '' myself .Had many try to do my head in and test my patience over the years.Like most of the regular posters here. We were those smarty pants apprentices once upon a time.Cant put mature ears on young heads. John

Originally Posted by Steamwhisperer

I also checked the tapers on the piston rod. I smeared a bit of Marcos blue on the tapers and checked the respective pistons on their ends.
The results were quite satisfactory which now puts the spotlight on the scoring in the area that runs through the (overtightened) glands.
It should be ok for 'working clothes'
I am confident though that I will be calling on you John about the stainless shafting. I will make a new one while I have this one out to make sure I get the distance between the pistons right and to have a new one just in case the scoring is not ok in new gland packing.

These pics are the water piston and its end of the rod
DSC_1496.JPG DSC_1497.JPG

And the steam end
DSC_1499.JPG DSC_1501.JPG

Phil

Phil,by the look of the ''galling on the steam end of the shaft, looks like it will be a leaker always especially with pressure,might be a stainless job I feel.On another note if you ever see old Mcpherson strut shock absorbers in a scrap pile some where dismantle them and use the precision ground shaft there is hard chromed and seen them up to 11/16 17 mm dia they are as hard as. also have used the coil springs heated and straightened out de tempered,shaped and re hardened for the odd boring bar for some unusual job.Love recycling stuff here. John.

Originally Posted by j.ashburn

Hi Phil,just back to the all thread puller must be betting old timers. try a step down on the all thread to the the valve thread gives you a feel for yield. also i do some times use thrust bearings between washers used every thing from torrington to roller ones out of auto transmissions it eases the torque needed to put apply to the nut and gives a feel as well use them often pulling liners sleeves diesel enginss. Lots of L N E here made upon the spot [Late Night Engineering] John.

Hi John,
I like the idea of the step down to the 1/2" thread in the valve as I noticed the all thread had been grabbed by the nut and was screwing tighter into the valve, not good.
In retrospect I should've used a thrust bearing but the grease applied to the nut and washer seemed to work ok. I must admit it would have been nice to know how much was friction between the nut, washer and bridge and how much friction there was from the press fit of the valve.

Originally Posted by j.ashburn

Don't you just love em [apprentices]had a fair share of ''phillistines '' myself .Had many try to do my head in and test my patience over the years.Like most of the regular posters here. We were those smarty pants apprentices once upon a time.Cant put mature ears on young heads. John

Years ago I had a real know it all apprentice. I mentioned to the chief engineer how lucky he was that I wasn't like that when I was an apprentice. He just coughed and mentioned something about being worse.

Originally Posted by j.ashburn

Phil,by the look of the ''galling on the steam end of the shaft, looks like it will be a leaker always especially with pressure,might be a stainless job I feel.On another note if you ever see old Mcpherson strut shock absorbers in a scrap pile some where dismantle them and use the precision ground shaft there is hard chromed and seen them up to 11/16 17 mm dia they are as hard as. also have used the coil springs heated and straightened out de tempered,shaped and re hardened for the odd boring bar for some unusual job.Love recycling stuff here. John.

I am a bit worried about the galling but it does look worse in the pics than in real life. I will make a new one anyway while the old one is out.
I think a visit might be in order (and a coffee at the 'dig')

Phil

Originally Posted by Steamwhisperer

A few litres would be freakin' fantastic. Dont throw it out whatever you do!!

If only one of us was a little smarter...
Stuart

I can't believe we just did that!!!
I never even gave it a thought lol

There could be a slight delay in pics of quality
IMG_3456.jpg

Phil

Looks a little bit fed.
Commiserations.

Phil,

You were warned about taking nude pictures of your missus.........

Seriously, how did the camera get busted?

Ken

Originally Posted by Stustoys

If only one of us was a little smarter...
Stuart

Originally Posted by Steamwhisperer

I can't believe we just did that!!!
I never even gave it a thought lol

Are you guys engaged in some behaviour that would make the rest of us feel uncomfortable or have I just missed a lot of the conversation in between?

Michael

Originally Posted by Michael G

Are you guys engaged in some behaviour that would make the rest of us feel uncomfortable or have I just missed a lot of the conversation in between?

Michael

Hi Michael,
Nah, nothing so saucy. I just happened to see Stuart on Saturday and it would have been a great opportunity to grab the creosote. Neither of us even thought about it. I'm putting it down to old age.

Phil