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Thread: How to bore this tool holder?
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22nd Apr 2013, 09:56 PM #16Most Valued Member
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Thanks for the links Phil. Those drill bits are cheaper than I thought. Bill Ooms has some interesting looking attachments. If the Proxxon is a failure I might have a crack at Bill's drilling attachment.
Chris
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22nd Apr 2013, 11:19 PM #17Most Valued Member
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Thanks for all your replies gents. I will have a go at Gavin's boring-bar-in-the-4 jaw idea. If I can't make that work with the boring bars I have I will make a between-centres boring bar as per pipeclay's method.
Chris
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22nd Apr 2013, 11:24 PM #18
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22nd Apr 2013, 11:52 PM #19Most Valued Member
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Chris it all seemed to be getting over complicated in the discussion.
A basic boring bar in the 4 jaw seems like a good way to do it. It's just one step up on what you've done to this point.
The tricky bit will be getting the cutting arc diameter just right.
It might be easier (less chance of error) if you machined up some round bar to the drilled hole dimension, reduced one end so it can go in your drill chuck in the tailstock.
Then use that as a guide to center and square the block in the four jaw, remove the round stock, and use a boring bar on the toolpost in the normal way.
Rob
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23rd Apr 2013, 12:47 AM #20
Hi Chris,
The 4 jaw trick should work fine, you can do your final adjustments (assuming your using a HSS boring bar) by moving the bit in the bar, use a DI or mic to carefully adjust the size.
I have a few large drills from CTC, these are cheap and ok for the odd job but certainly not top quality.1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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23rd Apr 2013, 09:01 AM #21Most Valued Member
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How to bore this tool holder?
Thanks Rob and Ewan.
The 1/2" boring bar plus a few mm of tool protrusion will mean very little offset (if any) is required to get to 20mm.
Yes Ewan, I have a boring bar with an adjustable HSS tip.
This will all have to wait for the weekend. Will report back then.
ChrisChris
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27th Apr 2013, 07:55 PM #22Most Valued Member
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I finished this job off today. I ended up just mounting the boring bar in a 1/2" ER40 collet and adjusting the tool bit to achieve the correct diameter bore. It worked very well. Surprisingly the hole didn't close up after slitting. Thanks for the help.
Chris
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27th Apr 2013, 11:15 PM #23Dave J Guest
Looks good, and glad to hear it all worked out for you.
Dave
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27th Apr 2013, 11:34 PM #24
Looks good Chris, Gavin's suggestion looks to have worked out fine..
Now the $64 dollar question, how does it work as a tool post grinder? I'd be hopeful that you might be able to do some internal grinding with such a set up..
Regards
Ray
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28th Apr 2013, 09:59 AM #25Most Valued Member
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Likewise, how do you find it for cross drilling in steel? As I say, mine is smaller and struggles, I wonder how your larger one goes?
Pete
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28th Apr 2013, 11:25 AM #26Most Valued Member
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How to bore this tool holder?
Ray,
I've never actually had the need for a TP grinder. Maybe I'll discover one now!
Pete,
I reckon it would struggle with anything other than sub-1.5mm holes in steel. It only has a 100W motor. My intended use is for fluting, slitting and cross-drilling brass and aluminium for model engine making. I will report back with results.
ChrisChris
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28th Apr 2013, 11:49 AM #27Most Valued Member
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Cool. The nose of my proxxon also has only a very small area to grip by, which doesn't lead to a very stable setup at all. It looks like yours is far more suitable for the task.
Pete
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28th Apr 2013, 04:45 PM #28Member
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Another Boring Bar ...
Hi Chris, result looks good. Having looked at lots of responses here, I thought this little gem would also have been a contender. It's called a PRACTOOL SUPER DRILL. (high faluting name for a slightly different Boring Bar). I found it at a field day in the bush somewhere 20yrs ago. Basically it's bores from 1/2" to a bit over 1'' using the small end and up to about 3'' using the 1" section of the arbour. The HSS tool steel is adjustable in the bar. Someone else can tell us how the 'square' holes were bored for the tool bits. It comes with a gauge to set the tool bits.
Hope this wasn't too 'boring' for the micro-brigade!
Regards, Daryl
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28th Apr 2013, 09:50 PM #29Most Valued Member
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Thanks Daryl. The setting gauge is a good idea. I tried using dial calipers, but found it very difficult. A depth gauge that straddles the tool bit would probably be the most accurate way of setting it.
Chris
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29th Apr 2013, 11:13 AM #30Most Valued Member
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You can use a standard mic to measure the cutting increase. Obviously you need to allow for half the boring bar's thickness to calculate the radius, hence the bore diameter. In reality however I find I'm only after an increased cut of xxx, and measure off the finished bore, the mic is there simply to control the amount of feed. For occasional use that's fine, and I'm happy to do that, but carbide cutting tools on my nice mic faces doesn't impress me. I've seen some people make up a gauge, imagine a C-clamp with the screw replaced with a bolt (indeed as I wrote that it gave me the idea to sacrifice a cheap C-clamp, cut off the screw and retap it for a standard metric bolt. I'll try that next time I need to do this). Put a lock nut on the bolt (outside of the C), and each time you need to increase the depth back off the bolt. Measure with telescoping gauges just as you would measure the bore.
Pete
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