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  1. #1
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    Default Rossi Universal Mill

    After a prod in the ribs from RayG I tooks some pics of the Rossi universal mill I dragged home last Thursday. Muuch heavier than the 'about' 1600kg quoted by the seller. My 2500kg pallet trolley is working hard to lift it. Plugged it into the 5hp RPC and the spindle motor just starts; no dramas. That is a relief. One of the pics has the A&S 1ES beside it for a size comparison. So far have only found 1 small mark on the table. Haven't checked under the vice yet.

    KenP1000934.jpgP1000937.jpgP1000938.jpgP1000939.jpg

  2. #2
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  3. #3
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    Default

    Congratulations Ken.

    Looks like a nice machine. You need to be careful with seller weight estimations. The guy told me my guiliotine was 350kg......it would be at least double that.

    Cheers

    Piers

  4. #4
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    Default

    Hi,

    Not only does your new mill look good, so does your shed! I might have sell one of my kids to start a bigger shed fund.
    I also like the lifting device on the mill, will come in handy.

    Cheers Ben.

  5. #5
    Ueee's Avatar
    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Default

    Hi Ken,
    Well done, she looks good. Actually i'm a little jealous....your Z lock appears to be on the front of the knee. It's the one PITA i have found with the vernier so far. You'll be stoked once you make some chips, these big machines are soooooo rigid!

    With regards to your pallet jack, i think the 2.5t is a joke. I can barely lift and move the shaper on mine, and my estimate on her is 2-2.2t. I wouldn't even think about putting Mlls 2450kg on it.

    PS, not that i should ask a ladies age but how old is she?
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  6. #6
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    Default

    HI,
    Looks Good Ken, I see it has a Swivel Table and judging by all the Levers I'd say it has got Power feed on all Axis?.
    Last edited by steran50; 20th Apr 2013 at 09:25 PM. Reason: forgot 'and'
    All The Best steran50 Stewart

    The shortest way to do many things is to do only one thing at once.

  7. #7
    Dave J Guest

    Default

    Really nice solid mill you have there, congratulations Ken.

    Dave

  8. #8
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    Default

    That looks like a lot of fun in one machine. I must admit that before getting a good solid industrial machine like that (mine's Swedish rather than Italian) I thought mills were pretty much all the same. As Ewan has noted, these things are so rigid and stalling the machine in a cut just does not happen. The only problem that I have had is that I've had to go to single size tool holders. Cutters are just too easy to slip in a ER holder, especially with the independent feeds.

    Michael

  9. #9
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    Piers,
    The seller should have had a good idea re the weight as he is into trucking and earthmoving. His 2.5 tonne fork didn't flinch; but the jib arm sure groaned and creaked.

    Ben,
    The shed is soso. Too low in the roof now. Was built in the early 50s and in a hole. Used to fill up with water before the concrete floor..Now it only gets about 1" of water through it in floods. Nowhere for the water to go in this flat country. What you see is half of it. Machinery is spread everywhere at the moment as with this addition I have to do a complete re-arrangement to try and rescue some floor space and make things easier to get to.

    Ewan
    you are right about the Z lock. Y is the bent lever on the right side. X is 2 grub screws on the front of the table. Stamped 1965. RC has more info on it than I have with his page from the 1965 catalogue.
    The Z lock is not totally locking the knee; so is one thing to check. You asked earlier about the vice; it did come with it; so I included the pics of the dovetails on it you were interested in. The vice and arbour are worth more to replace than the total purchase price.

    S50
    correct on both counts.

    Ken

  10. #10
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    DaveJ

    Thanks

    Michael
    I have to retool up again as everything I have is iso30. i have a posilock chuck that I like as the cutters don't walk out. Also have a number of the sidelock holders. Trouble is they are both iso30. In the short term I will get a 40/30 reduceer and hope for the best. Probably used up all my luck getting the mill.

    Ken

  11. #11
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    Hi Ken,

    Nice to see it arriving in it's new "home", it actually looks better than the ebay pictures would have suggested, it looks like the table tilts? Saves having a nodding head setup...

    You've got youself a nice quality mill at a bargain basement price... can't go wrong!


    Regards
    Ray

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
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    Australia
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    She is real beauty Ken. Good luck with the rearrangement of the shop. It's hard work trying to get a good layout.
    -Josh

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
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    Default All is not well in Rossi Land

    Over the last few days I have been stripping the mill for a check and service. The outside may have been clean with the "pressure washer" reco; but the bowels are full of crap.

    It also appears to have had grease put through the oilers and diesel sump oil used. Well that's the only thing I know that is that black and dirty. Some gear boxes and bearing require prepacking with grease as there are no other lube means available.

    I was feeling a bit apprehensive after Ewan's then Ray's damaged machines; but everything appeared OK.

    Then I got into the power feed system in the cross slide. It looked like somebody has been here before. Then I found this
    P1010272.jpg

    So I dug some more and found this under that hole below the pinion.
    P1010274.jpgP1010275.jpg

    That crash must have made one hell of a bang.

    The Lambo/Maser has just turned into a clapped out Alpha.

    3 choices as I see it

    1. clean up the bronze and crap and coat the break with super strength Loctite then clamp back together. When set up machine a wide keyway down either side and loctite and bolt them on;

    2. make a pattern and have a new casting made,

    3. get a honking great lump of cast iron (or steel) and make up a billet housing.

    Over to the brains trust for some ideas please.

    Ken

  14. #14
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    4. Strip the housing down and take to a specialist CI welding shop for repair. A brazed joint on a casting will work but you have to have it done right (eg proper pre heat)

    Michael

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    4. Strip the housing down and take to a specialist CI welding shop for repair. A brazed joint on a casting will work but you have to have it done right (eg proper pre heat)

    Michael
    Yes, I'd try this first. Nothing to lose and a brazed joint is heaps strong enough.

    PDW

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