Thread: Which Multitool Linisher Attachment?

Originally Posted by Grahame Collins

Toggy,
I have been down this road with the top of the l...

I was looking at Richmond Castors site last night and saw a flanged rail wheel in steel. Maybe too heavy for a multitool flange but again could be skimmed to lighten it.

Grahame

Be aware that Rochmond Casters off-shored alll of their production too a couple of years ago. Overpriced run of the mill Chinese lowest bidder stuff now.

GQ

When trying to eliminate sources of runout/vibration for any grinder setup, please don't overlook nuts. Every bench grinder nut I've looked at has been wonky. If you don't believe me, try this: Single point a short length of the appropriate thread to a shoulder. Make the fit not too sloppy. Don't disturb the chuck. Screw your nut on finger tight. I'll bet a dollar you can see daylight on one side of the shoulder. While it's there, face the end, reverse and face the other end. Reverse and face again, and again, so each face gets done twice. Now mount it up and recheck your runout. Before you undo the chuck you might as well true any other grinder nuts you may have of the same size. If it's a LH one you'll need to run the lathe in reverse and cut behind centre to prevent the nut unscrewing.

Until you know your grinder setup is good, you can't really assess whatever is mounted to it.

Grahame,
Thanks for the offer; but I have a good enough lathe here to do the job. The wheel flanges I surface ground are the pieces that hold the grinding wheel itself. The inner one then has about a 3/4" ? spacer between it and a shoulder on the shaft where it passes through the motor bearing. Instead of two separate pieces I intend to turn up the spacer and rear flange in one piece. That should give it more support on the shaft if the bore tolerances are kept tight. I made new ones for my wood saw bench and there is no runout.

The next thing will be to repair the belt drive wheel. The shaft bore is obviously up the creek and not parallel to the belt surface. There is not much material left in the boss; but a small rebore to straighten it then fit a sleeve should do the job. Should get about 2.5mm walls on the sleeve. Once I set up the drive wheel in the big lathe and clean up the bore; I will leave it there until the sleeve is fitted and bored. Should be able to improve on the 40 thou wobble. I have 2 lathes, so can turn up the sleeve on the 2nd one. Haven't worked out yet if I will shrink fit it or use loctite. Will then true up the wheel outer sanding surface and inner flange bearing surface. A lot of mucking about. The greedy sod got my money; so why should he care. I bet he winges if his sales fall when prospective buyers hear of the shoddy manufacture.

Anyhow; you other blokes; and that includes you RayG should have to stand in the naughty corner. With your ideas of making our own units; I have been sussing out my treasures to see what I can press into use.

Ken

Originally Posted by Toggy

Will it suffice to say this if I was to buy another linisher of this size; I would check out and if OK ; pay the extra $40 and go for the Linishall.

Ken,
I assume you mean this:

http://www.linishall.com.au/componen...;product_id=51

Does anyone have any experience with this linisher?

Chris

Originally Posted by variant22

Call P.A Products on: (02) 6337 1142 and ask to speak with Alan (the owner).

I just did that. His name is Alan Cunningham and he's a straight-shooter. He repeated what others have posted here. I.e. some of the parts are made in China and there were some teething problems in the early days (particularly with the castings). He now goes to China once a month to keep an eye on production. Full credit to him for persisting with it.

They still make the tubes in Oz and he reckons the current linishers are better than they have been for a few years. He seems very proud of the product and told me to call him if I have any problems with mine after I buy one and he would 'make it right'. Alan says H&F will stock the latest models due to their high turnover, so I'll buy one from H&F next week.

Bryan sorry I'm a bit slow today, can you run that past me again? Are you holding the wheels on directly with the nuts bearing against the wheel? I'm completely lost with this comment.

Single point a short length of the appropriate thread to a shoulder. Make the fit not too sloppy. Don't disturb the chuck. Screw your nut on finger tight.

If it's a LH one you'll need to run the lathe in reverse and cut behind centre to prevent the nut unscrewing.

The grinders should have flanges that resemble giant washers and are reasonable accurately machined (incidentally one area that marks the difference between a good grinder and a cheap one), they are designed to press against the paper washer that is part of the grinder wheel. Incidentally the paper washers should always be fitted and metal should never bear against the stone. If they are not there, then make some up. They will take up any minor imperfections in the stone and/or flanges and prevent pressure points that may cause a wheel failure. I have yet to have a wheel explode on me, but know guys who have, it's like a bomb going off from what I've heard. I've never bothered balancing my wheels, as if properly dressed they run very smoothly.

Pete

Originally Posted by Pete F

Bryan sorry I'm a bit slow today, can you run that past me again? Are you holding the wheels on directly with the nuts bearing against the wheel? I'm completely lost with this comment.

The grinders should have flanges that resemble giant washers and are reasonable accurately machined (incidentally one area that marks the difference between a good grinder and a cheap one)

No of course I'm using flanges (and blotters where appropriate), but if the nut is crooked it will only bear on one side of the flange, which will only bear on one side of the wheel. Maybe it doesn't matter but I'd rather be sure. My runout went from .5mm to .1mm by truing the flanges and nut. I can't prove how much the nut contributed.

Originally Posted by jack620

I just did that. His name is Alan Cunningham and he's a straight-shooter. He repeated what others have posted here. I.e. some of the parts are made in China and there were some teething problems in the early days (particularly with the castings). He now goes to China once a month to keep an eye on production. Full credit to him for persisting with it.

They still make the tubes in Oz and he reckons the current linishers are better than they have been for a few years. He seems very proud of the product and told me to call him if I have any problems with mine after I buy one and he would 'make it right'. Alan says H&F will stock the latest models due to their high turnover, so I'll buy one from H&F next week.

Good to see you gave him a call. He is a really nice guy and freely gives his time to tell the history. I had the same experience as you in terms of his candor, honesty and willingness. That said, unfortunately when I was talking to him they were trying to fix up (not fixed at that point) the casting situation. He was actually on a trip to China to get the diecast wheels made. I will be interested to hear how you go with the new model. I hope it puts them back on the map, as the use-case is great. I am like most that buy this tool, in that I do not have the space for a standalone grinder, linisher and belt sander. On paper it was perfect.

PS: I neglected to mention one thing (advised by the manufacturer) that added some stability to the drift situation was to get a file and grind down ever so lightly (<1mm) the outside edges of the rubber wheels.

Thats fantastic news,

If a manufacturer is willing to think like that he is certainly worthy of our support. I hope the Multitool continues.
I am surprised after all this time there no further product development on it.I am a sucker for accessories.

I have all the current one and don't use the screwdriver and chisel thingy as I already have a Tormek wheel.Yep! I have the accessories for that too!. Bought from the high school as they weren't using it-$200.

Grahame

Hi all,

a bit late but add me to the list of a satisfied 900x50mm multitool attachment. I also have the mitre attachment and chisel sharpening jig. I have had it a while now (at least 10 years) and it is one of my most used tools.

Cheers,

Simon

I understand that some will opt for a dedicated linisher and I can understand that.

When many of us purchased our Multitool/s, the dedicated linishers available were big buggers and priced to match.The beauty of the Multitool was that it was the correct product for the time, long before knives and funny diy builder sanders.It did not require an electrical rewire job and took up little space.

The other clincher was that the power source was still available to run a stone, a polishing mop or wire buff. I have 2 as new quality wire wheels but won't change until I absolutely have to, as the original is almost run in after 10 years Maybe the wires flung off the new wheels have something to do with this too!

The Multitool was and still is,to an extent, attractive to those who couldn,t make a linisher, but had the engineering ability to bolt an assembly together and get it running.

Hopefully Mutitool will sort out their problems and regain the good name.

Grahame

ive got a915 x 50 on an old cmf 8 inch bench grinder,it gets used solidly every day.i also have a three phase 5hp 2740mm x 75 linisher and i like the little one better.

Thanks Daniel. Mine will be fitted to an old 8" GMF grinder too. It's as smooth as silk and runs for ages after I switch it off.
Chris

Chris,

Sorry for the slow reply but have been away.

page 155 of 2013 H&H catalogue.

I have NOT closely inspected them.

Hopefully for new buyers the product has been improved but I will never recommend them to anybody because of the poor quality unit I bought in goo faith. If he had any decency; the manufacturer would make efforts to recall and replace defective units.

Ken

Originally Posted by Toggy

If he had any decency; the manufacturer would make efforts to recall and replace defective units.

Ken,
Having spoken to the bloke I reckon he would gladly replace any faulty parts if you asked him. If the whole unit was a lemon, he may well give you a new one. Worth a try. I'll PM you his mobile number if you want to speak to him.
Chris