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  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    Thanks John, and Happy new year.

    Here is the plan BT, the thinnest part under tension will be 25mm thick, and i'll use a cutting tool with a radius corner to cut the main groove.
    Nice explicit drawing Ew. 4E is supposedly the easiest cast iron to machine. Should do the job. Bohler sell Flocast products.

    Cast Iron Bar,Continuous Cast Iron Solid Bar,Ductile Iron,Grey Iron Casting supplier

    What do you reckon you'll make the nuts from? I used 1045 for that little tool post on the ball turner. Certainly a lot easier to machine than 4140. A good chance it would do for the nuts.

    BT

  2. #32
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    Mar 2009
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    G'day Ewan,
    Regarding translating your manual, Acrobat (the full one not the reader) actually has a fairly good OCR built in.
    If you want to email me the pdf copy of your manual I can run it through the OCR and then you can use google translate, babelfish or something similar.
    Cheers,
    Greg.

  3. #33
    Ueee's Avatar
    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Default Mlle has landed!

    Well, it took some doing be we manged to muscle all 2.5 ton of her into the corner of the shed. She sure is large, the same sort of large that Freddie and Blondie are, she says, don't f### with me......

    Some good news and some bad....
    The good- the uni head now spins free, main gearbox is in great nick, the oil pump is working, electrics look fine.
    The bad- water has gotten into the feed box and clutches, there is some rusting although most of it seems to just be growing on the steel, not actually eating into it, 1" arbor is rusted, may be ok, may not, can't seem to unlock the table swivel, and the y axis is still stuck in gear....probably rusted.

    Pics, in order:

    On truck, ready to be unloaded,
    In place,
    Yes the table is supposed to go that far over!,
    The X ways, the "galley" in the back is for coolant, it drains from the center of the table
    Introductions....
    Couple of the gearbox, the pump works just turning the belts by hand,
    Electrics, all ok, just a bit of surface rust on the frames,
    Motor, drive belts and coolant pump,
    3 pics of the feed boxes and the rust,
    The cap (?) is driven by chain, not rack and pinion,
    The angle graduation on the uni head have vernier scales
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    South East Queensland, Australia
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    355

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    Late night eh Ueee, I noticed your post time. The things that can keep one up late at night.

    Bit of work ahead but good to see you got it in place ok.

    Cheers.
    If I'm not right, then I'm wrong, I'll just go bend some more bananas.

  5. #35
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    Nov 2008
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    The Parisienne looks even better than I imagined Ew. The paintwork appears to be in reasonable nick too. (Fingers crossed you don't repaint her bleu de France.)

    Thank you for the photos.

    Bob.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    near Warragul, Victoria
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    Default Heavy

    Hi Ewan ..


    The main gearbox is more important anyway ,it will be a while until you strip it down, so I would apply something onto the rusty feed gears to stop any more rusting action eating into the metal gears , they will clean up OK

  7. #37
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    Aug 2008
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    near Rockhampton
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    I see yours has the same silly idea of the coolant flowing through the middle of one of the ways... My Jafo has the same system that was full of crap and had blocked off the outlet hole making coolant flow all over the ways creating a corrosion problem....

    Also it had damaged table feed gears due to coolant ingress... It gets into the system through the table swivel as the feed shaft has to come up from the centre of the saddle requiring gaskets and seals which never get checked or replaced over the long period of time since it was new....
    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

  8. #38
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    Oct 2011
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    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
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    Surely the most appropriate colour to paint a French mlle. mill would be (moulon) rouge?

    Michael

  9. #39
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    Oui, oui. C'est vrai.
    It's all part of the service here at The House of Pain™

  10. #40
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    Nov 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Q View Post
    Oui, oui. C'est vrai.
    Non Non Non Le laisser vert !

  11. #41
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    Sackry Blue!

  12. #42
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    I say if you are going to live in this country you should speak the language of this country...

    damn, struth, cobber, strike me roan...
    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by .RC. View Post
    I say if you are going to live in this country you should speak the language of this country...

    damn, struth, cobber, strike me roan...
    Mais mon ami! I am speaking the language spoken on the real first fleet. No wait...that was Dutch.

    As an aside, Aussie is the closest English diialect to French vernacular:

    Good day= Bonjour.
    How ya goin'? = comment allez vous?
    It's all part of the service here at The House of Pain™

  14. #44
    Ueee's Avatar
    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Quote Originally Posted by morrisman View Post
    Hi Ewan ..

    it will be a while until you strip it down,
    Oops, someone mustn't of told me or Mlle that.....

    Firstly yes R.C. it has that system. bit it seems to not have overflowed, the oil bath for the X travel gears etc had no water in it, and not rust. I could see it getting blocked though, there is no filter and no place for a filter on the table, so the trough is full of shavings. The feed boxes i would say got water through the cover gaskets.

    I have worked out what the 4 levers are, they drive a worm each, that in turn tightens or loosens a nut to clamp the swiveling table in place.

    After cleaning all the muck off the table it has been removed, exposing the adjustable leadscrew nuts (one fixed and one adjustable) and the forward/reverse x table travel. I then took the top half of the saddle off, revealing a large O ring to seal the x feed oil bath. I also took the front of the uni head off, revealing the curved bevel gears (i'm sure there is a proper name for them) and another oil bath.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  15. #45
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    [QUOTE=I also took the front of the uni head off, revealing the curved bevel gears (i'm sure there is a proper name for them) and another oil bath.[/QUOTE]

    zyklo-palloid gears is a trade mark. Otherwise known as spiral bevel gears
    It's all part of the service here at The House of Pain™

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