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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
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    3,228

    Default Busted my pedestal drill

    I suppose I should post this under Small Machinery, but I always seem to get a better response here.

    Today I cleaned out the 20+ year-old hardened grease from the retaining ring that secures the height adjusting rack on my PD. When I tightened the grub screw up again I split the ring. I didn't do it up very tight (honest). Anyway, now I have to fix it. The "proper" way to fix it would be turn up a new ring and slip it onto the column. However, I really don't want to remove the head of the drill from the column if I can avoid it.

    I tried clamping it up with a hose clamp, but that didn't work. It was still a loose fit. The only lazy-man's fix I can come up with is to turn up a sleeve and then spilt it into two (I have a "puck" of 90mm diameter 6061 in the scrap box). The two pieces could be placed around the column above the existing ring and clamped together with a hose clamp. This would prevent the original ring from sliding up and releasing the rack.

    Does anyone have any better suggestions? If the general consensus is "do it properly" will I need a chain block to lift the head off?
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  2. #2
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    Nov 2007
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    melbourne australia
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    Default

    It's this type of drill:
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #3
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    Jun 2007
    Location
    sydney ( st marys )
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    64
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    4,887

    Default

    The preffered method would be to machine a new single piece.

    If the diameter of your pedestal was small enough compared to the OD of your stock and you had plenty of wall thickness you could if you have a Mill you could machine 2 flats 180 apart,drill and tap and then split it allowing you to replace without removing the head.

    Depending on how fit you are,if the Drill is bolted down and if you can get easy access you could simply lift the head off,there not that heavy.
    You could also shag around and place a suitable piece of material over the damaged area,drill this piece of material with a suitable amount of holes to secure it over your damaged ring,then mark the position of the holes onto your damaged area and drill and tap,then just drill and tap for the centre clamp screw.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
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    59
    Posts
    6,542

    Default

    From memory the heads of those things are not very heavy. My vote is for do it properly. The head should lift off after undoing the 2 grub screws on the side. A 'proper' repair shouldn't take long anyway.

    Michael

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
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    Default

    OK, thanks fellas. There isn't enough 'meat' in my aluminium puck to allow machining of flats.

    The in-laws are staying with us, so I might as well use the father-in-law to help lift the head off the pedestal. I guess I'll just make a beefier version of the original ring out of aluminium.

    Cheers

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    ACT
    Age
    84
    Posts
    268

    Default

    Hi,
    What about getting one of those counter weight units that do away with the rack and forget about the ring.
    I can't remember what it's called but they are made by the same mob as the "Blowfly" and "Wasp" sanders.
    Regards
    Hugh

    Enough is enough, more than enough is too much.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
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    Default

    Duke,
    I had a look at the "2 Terrys" website, but I didn't see the system you describe.
    the 2 terrys - home

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    mid north coast NSW
    Posts
    92

    Default

    I would agree with the others taking the head off and making a new one would be the proper way to go. But as it is only guideing the rack, the loads are light! Have you concidered using a large stainless steel hose clamp over the ring as a "temporary" solution!?
    Graeme

    PS I just reread your post again !! Duh
    I would have thought the hose clamp trick would have worked! Oh well back to the drawing board!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    melbourne australia
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    Default Busted my pedestal drill

    No worries Graeme. I was very hopeful for the hose clamp! I thought about widening the crack with a thin file which would allow the hose clamp to close the ring tight against the pedestal. I'll sleep on it.
    Chris

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    ACT
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    84
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    268

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    Duke,
    I had a look at the "2 Terrys" website, but I didn't see the system you describe.
    the 2 terrys - home
    Bummer, maybe off the market at the moment. It's not in the latest carbatec catalogue either. I have a write up on it somewhere if I can find it I will do a scan. It worked with pulleys and a counter weight you filled with nuts and bolts or concrete so you could just slide the drill up and down and then lock it in place in the usual manner.
    May be a seniors moment probably went off the market years ago.
    Regards
    Hugh

    Enough is enough, more than enough is too much.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    SA
    Posts
    1,649

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    No worries Graeme. I was very hopeful for the hose clamp! I thought about widening the crack with a thin file which would allow the hose clamp to close the ring tight against the pedestal. I'll sleep on it.
    Or use a metal exhaust pipe clamp.

    I have virtually the same pillar drill (mines a Royco) and even though the head is heavy, it can be lifted off by a reasonably fit person.

    You could grind through the ring on the other side enough to break it to remove - then turn up a new thicker collar, split it, and pull the two sections together/lock it on the shaft with two Allen bolts.

    Rob

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    mid north coast NSW
    Posts
    92

    Default

    Jack620 I went out and checked both my drill presses and the racks are not in contact with the upper ring! There would be 1/8" clearance on both and the only way I can get the rack to lift and contact the upper ring is to wind the handle with the table clamp done up! In fact I think that both of mine would work quite well without the upper ring being there! Your comment about gummed up grease got me thinking, I use to use WD40/oil on the columns but it eventualy gumed up and some areas of the columns rusted from lack of attention! For years now I have used Inox and have had no trouble with either rusting or gumming up and the tables move up and down freely. So it makes me wonder that if your column is clean and the table moves freely, maybe you can just let the ring sit there and "look" as if it is working?
    Graeme

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    ACT
    Age
    84
    Posts
    268

    Default

    Hi,
    Timbecom have it , it's called the Easy riser
    it's under drilling accessories just less than $80.
    Regards
    Hugh

    Enough is enough, more than enough is too much.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
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    3,228

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nearnexus View Post
    Or use a metal exhaust pipe clamp.
    Rob, that would be better, but do they make them in a 90mm?

    Graeme, thanks for the Inox tip. I've got a 5L container of it. I'll use that on the column in future.

    Duke, thanks for the link. I see the counterweight goes down the middle of the column, so I assume the head must be removed to install it? I also wonder how well it works with varying weights on the drill table. Sometimes I have nothing on the table, other times I might have an X-Y vice with a large metal workpiece in it. I would imagine that would throw out the balance considerably. Does anyone have any feedback on the Easy Riser?

    Chris

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Dural NSW
    Age
    82
    Posts
    1,203

    Default Drill Press Repair

    Chris
    I agree with Michael G
    Do the job properly.
    I just went & had a look at my machine & it looks identical to yours.
    The 2 grub screws in the head could be loosened & the head removed very easily.
    Also the comments made by Anglesmith (Graeme) are what I have found.
    The Inox is the way to go, good enough for rifles, good enough for a drill press column. It has stood the test of time.
    By the way Graeme, if you happen to be reading this. Its been a long time between drinks since Ashfield Tech days 1953 or 59 yrs ago. A great school !
    Our first intro to Metal Lathes at 12 yrs of age. Think from memory they were "Gregco" with flat beds & flat belt drive. The metalwork room also had a nice Travelling head Shaper that would be highly sought after these days.
    regards
    Bruce


    Bruce

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