Thread: Bottoming/Plug Taps

Originally Posted by Stustoys

You aren't helping me feel better BT

A couple of examples.
While removing the burrs wont be an issue, straightening the slot out could be tricky. Though it shouldn't be hard to beat their de-burring effort. Notice the little oops saw cut.

Nicely centered slots in the screws!
For some reason a counter bore in the large tee handles.


With a little be of cleaning up I should be able to bring them up to usable.

I'll keep an eye out for something better.


Stuart

Stu,

I'll post over the shorter fatter Eclipse. Whilst I've whinged about it , it has to be better than those Oriental handles.

My die stocks are all older P & N. I used to use a newish 1" stock, also P & N, and always disliked it. The dies would wobble and a couple of the screws snapped. Then I found the older pair in the photo. They work well.

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Ratchet handles might be handy with gun taps and lower % thread depth?(though a cordless drill would likely be ok then anyway lol)

Hi Dean,

The tommy bars in these Tee handles are swaged* on one end but a loose sliding fit with no lock or detent so fall out all to easy.



Stuart

I ground off the swage(?) on one end of my little one's tommy bar at one point for some reason. I think I tried mounting it in the drill press for guided tapping. Found that did not work. Not enough grip with the chuck and of the chuck. For a while after I just held the tommy bar on with a bit of plastic hose (tiny). Was probably wire insulation as the bar is only 4mm diam max.

Dean

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

Stu,

I'll post over the shorter fatter Eclipse. Whilst I've whinged about it , it has to be better than those Oriental handles.

My die stocks are all older P & N. I used to use a newish 1" stock, also P & N, and always disliked it. The dies would wobble and a couple of the screws snapped. Then I found the older pair in the photo. They work well.

The biggest one in that photo looks a bit similar to the one in my inherited set, except mine is red. That set is older than me by the way. Well over 25 yrs.

Dean

Dean,

You asked about the 2 and 4 jaw "chucks". The 2 jaw holds the tap more rigidly than the 4 saw cuts.

When I was making a little oiler adapter the other weekend, I used a die rather than cut the short M6 thread with the lathe. I did use the lathe for the job but rather than struggle with the die stock held up against the tailstock barrel, a three handed job, I did this -

Hi BT,
I better get to and finish off your christmas present then!(though I'm not sure which Christmas it will be for lol)
Thank you
You wouldnt have M2.2 screw over there would you?(at least I think its M2.2 )

Hi Dean the plastic hose sound like a winner.

Stuart

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Hi BT,
I better get to and finish off your christmas present then!(though I'm not sure which Christmas it will be for lol)
Thank you
You wouldnt have M2.2 screw over there would you?(at least I think its M2.2 )

Hi Dean the plastic hose sound like a winner.

Stuart

Not here in Boomtown Stu. I was on German Ebay looking for exotica and found these - NSR 804839 Metric Body Screw M 2.2 x 6.5 (10) | eBay

Might be RC shop fare over your way.

BT

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

Not here in Boomtown

Yes things are likely to be a little bigger over that way.

Its not M2.2 anyway. Its major Dia is just under 2.2mm but its 60tpi, though if I had to pick a thread form I'd say its BSW......I might just make one lol

Might be time to get out the tracing paper and the optical comparator.

Stuart

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Yes things are likely to be a little bigger over that way.

Its not M2.2 anyway. Its major Dia is just under 2.2mm but its 60tpi, though if I had to pick a thread form I'd say its BSW......I might just make one lol

Might be time to get out the tracing paper and the optical comparator.

Stuart

Stuart,

Not 8BA?

8BA thread spec: OD of screw 2.18 mm, 59.1 TPI, 47.5 degree thread angle, with rounded crests and valleys like Whitworth.

FWIW I was in a bearing supply shop in Atherton last week and noticed he had individual Australian made Sutton 1" diameter button dies up to at least 10 BA in stock. I had been "sort of" looking for some BA dies for a while but I hadn't ever seen these before - usually the modern available BA dies seem to come in model makers' sets in carbon steel and smaller ODs which require a special die holder and haven't impressed me. They were not cheap, ($24 each), but I bought the common sizes of 2, 4, 6 and 8 BA. I don't often need them, but they are very handy to have for the odd occasion when they are needed. If they had been a bit cheaper I'd have bought the full set.

Other than in model making, BA threads were common in pre-metric instruments and electrical fittings. You might be lucky enough to find a suitable 8BA replacement screw in an old electrical fitting, otherwise possibly in a model maker's shop.

Frank.

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

Dean,

You asked about the 2 and 4 jaw "chucks". The 2 jaw holds the tap more rigidly than the 4 saw cuts.

When I was making a little oiler adapter the other weekend, I used a die rather than cut the short M6 thread with the lathe. I did use the lathe for the job but rather than struggle with the die stock held up against the tailstock barrel, a three handed job, I did this -

Very nice. How did you turn it? Hand turn the main chuck?

I have extended 1/2" W threads for fencing use by using my lathe on slowest speed (16rpm) or maybe the next one (?) and hand holding the die holder. I have one hand on the clutch lever and one on the die holder. I can disengage the clutch and stop the lathe before the handle hits the bed. Its in the gap anyway.

Dean

Hi Frank,
Thanks, it could be 8BA. Of course I only have 9BA and 6BA, so no quick check. I'll try checking it tomorrow. Though something close will do as its not going to be under much load.
I must make up a thread chart that lists them all by dia and tpi/pitch.

Stuart

Originally Posted by Oldneweng

Very nice. How did you turn it? Hand turn the main chuck?

I have extended 1/2" W threads for fencing use by using my lathe on slowest speed (16rpm) or maybe the next one (?) and hand holding the die holder. I have one hand on the clutch lever and one on the die holder. I can disengage the clutch and stop the lathe before the handle hits the bed. Its in the gap anyway.

Dean

Yep, by hand. I just started the thread with the die in the chuck then finished it with a stock. I tried power threading once with a die in a stock. From memory it was an M8 thread on some 4140. The thread was about 90mm long. All turned to xxxx when the die became extremely hot and ended up galling the thread. Yet another lesson learned.

BT

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

Dean,

You asked about the 2 and 4 jaw "chucks". The 2 jaw holds the tap more rigidly than the 4 saw cuts.

When I was making a little oiler adapter the other weekend, I used a die rather than cut the short M6 thread with the lathe. I did use the lathe for the job but rather than struggle with the die stock held up against the tailstock barrel, a three handed job, I did this -

Hi BT.
Just wondering what the small 3 jaw chuck is?
I was thinking it was off a mini lathe, But I'm not sure. But the setup looks great for a multitude of things.

Thanks Matt

Originally Posted by matthew_g

Hi BT.
Just wondering what the small 3 jaw chuck is?
I was thinking it was off a mini lathe, But I'm not sure. But the setup looks great for a multitude of things.

Thanks Matt

Hi Matt,

It is a little Sherline chuck. It's threaded 3/4" x 16. I turned up a 2 Morse arbor to suit to which I can fit a 3M sleeve enabling its use in the Hercus headstock. It has proved to be extremely handy over the years. Even used it in the Vertex rotary table for milling stuff in my height deficient Hercus mill.

Sherline 1041 - 3 Jaw Self Centering Chuck [3/4 - 16] ...NEW | eBay

Bruce liked mine enough to buy one of his own. Bit of luck he might let us know where he bought it.

Their 4 jaws look neat too.

BT

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

Yep, by hand. I just started the thread with the die in the chuck then finished it with a stock. I tried power threading once with a die in a stock. From memory it was an M8 thread on some 4140. The thread was about 90mm long. All turned to xxxx when the die became extremely hot and ended up galling the thread. Yet another lesson learned.

BT

I had no issue with heat. I used RTD spray. The dies were 2" P&N. 1/2" Whit is a lot tougher to cut than M8. The MS rods I was using had damaged threads. The ends were seriously mushroomed. I cut the end off which left me with maybe 20 - 25mm of thread. This was then extended to 50 -60mm. I used them to make gate hinges (weld pins on), long bolts etc.

I had hundreds of these rods once. They came from work. Part of a barrel storage method that has been discontinued. Most were burnt. The rods were used to keep timbers in place. I recall seeing an 8ft x 4ft x 3ft bin half full of the complete rods pulled from the fire after a burn. The galv was burnt off and all rusty by then. Sometimes the stupidity of people in this world defies belief. Most of what I had have been used up.

Dean

Dean

Dean,

The heat would have been generated as a result of the bar being too large at 8mm. Being book informed I did not realize that the diameter should have been undersize. I had machine cut the thread. I was using the die to clean the thread up.

Bob.