Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 33
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Newstead Victoria
    Posts
    459

    Default Nice Job.

    Hi Ewen,nice job you made of the gears and adaptors.
    The Mars Great Scot here has ''serious dentition '' problems.Think its had too many Mars Bars.Both the 20 teeth on tumblers are stripped minus 3-4 the other 15 gone must have been a mighty stack.I have both the 20t on feed shaft and lead screw.Back gears are both missing a couple too.Must have been a hard chuck.The spindle drive hub has a tooth off too.looking at it is it a press fit on the end of the cone pulley?The quadrant is missing too and if its not too much bother a rough sketch please when you find time.Is planned to raise the head stock up 2 inches so will have to extend 1 arm of the quadrant any way.Could you also please list the complete gear set missing a few.
    With the 20 teeth gears got a bar of cast meehanite here and was planning to knock up a foot length of 20 teeth.got a cutter here so not a problem can cut off a piece for you.
    Only reason I wanted to re furb this machine is its planned for the old touring coach here and with the large saddle will be good for a multi purpose machine boring milling etc without being without a machining facility.If I don't use a lathe daily get withdrawl pains.
    Some time in its life it has had a light blue hammertone finish yuk! got to go for a solid colour any idea of orig colour as the base colour is gone.
    Back to the pins you made have you ever seen the Drummond way they anchor their gears ? Is a knurled shaft with a split in in it and expanded it just pushes into a hollow in the gear spindles.An easy idea to disconnect drive line.Spur gears have no end thrust just radial so they never get out of mesh.
    From what I see these machines are pretty robust and am sure will take a 2 inch raise up.Only thing is the headstock cones was considering tapered rollers and larger bore in spindle but is a big job.Dont know but is the feel of old machines their past and what they have made makes you reflect when using them. Cheers John.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,541

    Default

    John, I tried the parting off length of geared bar stock thing and found that I got annoying burrs on the sides of the teeth that then took some time to clean up. My suggestion would be to part the blanks to thickness and then thread them on a mandrel before cutting the teeth.

    Ewan, please let us know how those plastic gears go (especially the small ones). I occasionally think about making up plastic change gears but I'm concerned about how durable they would be. It would be good to have some feedback.

    Michael

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    sydney ( st marys )
    Age
    64
    Posts
    4,887

    Default

    Any particular reason why the gears were not chamfered prior to finish parting.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Newstead Victoria
    Posts
    459

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    John, I tried the parting off length of geared bar stock thing and found that I got annoying burrs on the sides of the teeth that then took some time to clean up. My suggestion would be to part the blanks to thickness and then thread them on a mandrel before cutting the teeth.

    Ewan, please let us know how those plastic gears go (especially the small ones). I occasionally think about making up plastic change gears but I'm concerned about how durable they would be. It would be good to have some feedback.

    Michael
    Hi Michael was going to gash all the length of root depth with a slitting saw to ease the pain on the gear cutter and was my idea too to bevel the lead in before parting was going to bandsaw then no worries with ''dags'' Cheers John.ps got 2 mills here so can set up either cutter.
    Last edited by j.ashburn; 1st Jun 2013 at 03:33 PM. Reason: more to add

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    119

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by j.ashburn View Post
    Hi Ewen,nice job you made of the gears and adaptors.
    The Mars Great Scot here has ''serious dentition '' problems.Think its had too many Mars Bars.Both the 20 teeth on tumblers are stripped minus 3-4 the other 15 gone must have been a mighty stack.I have both the 20t on feed shaft and lead screw.Back gears are both missing a couple too.Must have been a hard chuck.The spindle drive hub has a tooth off too.looking at it is it a press fit on the end of the cone pulley?The quadrant is missing too and if its not too much bother a rough sketch please when you find time.Is planned to raise the head stock up 2 inches so will have to extend 1 arm of the quadrant any way.Could you also please list the complete gear set missing a few.
    With the 20 teeth gears got a bar of cast meehanite here and was planning to knock up a foot length of 20 teeth.got a cutter here so not a problem can cut off a piece for you.
    Only reason I wanted to re furb this machine is its planned for the old touring coach here and with the large saddle will be good for a multi purpose machine boring milling etc without being without a machining facility.If I don't use a lathe daily get withdrawl pains.
    Some time in its life it has had a light blue hammertone finish yuk! got to go for a solid colour any idea of orig colour as the base colour is gone.
    Back to the pins you made have you ever seen the Drummond way they anchor their gears ? Is a knurled shaft with a split in in it and expanded it just pushes into a hollow in the gear spindles.An easy idea to disconnect drive line.Spur gears have no end thrust just radial so they never get out of mesh.
    From what I see these machines are pretty robust and am sure will take a 2 inch raise up.Only thing is the headstock cones was considering tapered rollers and larger bore in spindle but is a big job.Dont know but is the feel of old machines their past and what they have made makes you reflect when using them. Cheers John.
    Hi John,pics of Great Scot #249 quadrant/banjo for your reference . . . it's a substantial casting. Hope the pic helps with the colour - a close current available colour is Rust Guard 'Sky Gray'. My change wheels 30, 40, 45, 55, 60, 65, 120 Cheers, Mark.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #21
    Ueee's Avatar
    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    39
    Posts
    4,515

    Default

    Hi John,
    Looks like Mark sorted some pics out, i really can't tell you what gears the machine should have come with as mine has a metric leadscrew and some of the gears i have definitely where not originals. I am actually starting to think that my machine was converted to metric at some stage......i forgot to take a pic of why, but will do tomorrow, its not good......
    If you need more dimensions on the banjo let me know, just having made the spindle for it i know the grooves are 10mm wide and the arms are 25mm thick.

    Hi Michael,
    I'm really interested in how they will last too, obviously the 30t will go well before the 120.....I may not be using them for feed though, i'm still thinking on that one.

    Cheers
    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Newstead Victoria
    Posts
    459

    Default

    Hi Mark,many thanks for the pics and help.Can fabricate that quadrant from the pics as have to make 1 leg longer if i raise up the centre height.Will check out that colour too although battle ship grey is not my favorite colour.Re the gears are there any duplicates of those numbers?If I go to the trouble of making gears will make extras as it is easy to cut more when you are tooled up.The other thing is I must check the leadscrew as got an idea it may be metric??? iis quite a fine tpi like 10 -12tpi will measure in daylight and check.are there any serial numbers so far havent seen any.Thankyou once again for your prompt reply and co operation.

    Hi Ewan,firstly an apology mis spelt your name.Many thanks too for your help and hopefully another Mars gets up and running.The previous owners fed it too many Mars bars and were quite brutal.Abuse of tools really makes me wince.Saddle has a broken out tee bolt slot at the rear looks like was the top slide set over or a rear parting tool mounted broke it out.Thats fixable and some cast rods with some copper sheeting will build it up.not a bother but is an eye sore.''white ants'' caused by ill thinking people in striped aprons.Re skim it and improve its surface.Need some scraping skills like you blokes who did the course.i do like the idea with the tapered gib.

    Will keep you posted on further updates better start to learn how to upload pics.Many thanks save the Mars bars for the kids
    Cheers to all John.

  8. #23
    Ueee's Avatar
    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    39
    Posts
    4,515

    Default

    My Serial # is on the right hand end of the front flat way, 2 separate numbers if i remember right, but one may be from the ministry of munitions. My leadscrew is 3.5mm square thread, 3mm ACME on the cross (but the dial is graduated with 50 main divs, giving .12 of dia) and the compound is just a standard M10 thread . I know the leadscrew can't be original as it is made in 2 pieces which separated just today, like i said i need to take a pic.....
    Some smartarse decided to swing something thicker than the gap one day so they cut 10mm off the end of the bed ways, other than that it is in overall ok condition, except for the huge amount of wear that was on the slides before i scraped it.
    Cheers
    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    119

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by j.ashburn View Post
    Hi Mark,many thanks for the pics and help.Can fabricate that quadrant from the pics as have to make 1 leg longer if i raise up the centre height.Will check out that colour too although battle ship grey is not my favorite colour.Re the gears are there any duplicates of those numbers?If I go to the trouble of making gears will make extras as it is easy to cut more when you are tooled up.The other thing is I must check the leadscrew as got an idea it may be metric??? iis quite a fine tpi like 10 -12tpi will measure in daylight and check.are there any serial numbers so far havent seen any.Thankyou once again for your prompt reply and co operation.

    Hi Ewan,firstly an apology mis spelt your name.Many thanks too for your help and hopefully another Mars gets up and running.The previous owners fed it too many Mars bars and were quite brutal.Abuse of tools really makes me wince.Saddle has a broken out tee bolt slot at the rear looks like was the top slide set over or a rear parting tool mounted broke it out.Thats fixable and some cast rods with some copper sheeting will build it up.not a bother but is an eye sore.''white ants'' caused by ill thinking people in striped aprons.Re skim it and improve its surface.Need some scraping skills like you blokes who did the course.i do like the idea with the tapered gib.

    Will keep you posted on further updates better start to learn how to upload pics.Many thanks save the Mars bars for the kids
    Cheers to all John.
    G'day John, the duplicate gear is 30. Ueee suggested the serial number on the right hand end of the bed - correct, unless (like me) you've surface ground the bed, therefore another location for the serial number is on the tailstock above the eccentric lever lock (assuming your tailstock matches the bed). My leadscrew is 8tpi - I'd like to know how Ewan did metric! cheers, Mark

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Newstead Victoria
    Posts
    459

    Default

    John here,checked a few things out on the Mars G S today.

    the lead screw is 8 tpi.
    Found the serial numbers tailstock was sitting on it 355 matching t/s no too.
    Hunting through the skungy l blue hammer tone [owner refurbished] paint on the tail stock found paint like an indian red to maroon colour down to bare metal is only primer so red the orig colour was.
    Measured the spindle and found about .001 in the middle of shaft on gear end [l h end] and 0.0015 -0.002 on the large shaft [chuck end].Slight galling on both more so chuck end and white metal in cones has fared better with the boundary lubrication.has had grease nipples added so be back to drip oilers or oil cups prob the latter as i never forget my pre flight checks.
    looks like 7/8 hollow spindle or abt 22mm end has been burred and needs to be re shaped.
    As I did say earlier the use for this was to be a travelling companion in the old coach and the more i do look and clean it up its not a bad thing. I love old machines and think this 1 worthy of the effort.has been sneered at by a few i suppose because of it's 6x4 trailer blue hue and looks folorn.
    1 thing didnt mention is the cover where the sliding 20 tooth gear goes is missing and the gear is loose out in the bits box that came with it. not sure on the connect up assuming [that word] the 120 tooth gear is for fine feed off the quadrant. the other assumption is that the 20 tooth slips in and out to engage. what's got me stumped is the long key way in the power feed shaft.
    All help received gratefully. Cheers John.

  11. #26
    Ueee's Avatar
    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    39
    Posts
    4,515

    Default

    Long key in the feed shaft is for the gear that drives the worm that drives the feeds to key into. I always n eeded to double compound my gearing to get a decent slow feed, but the biggest ci gear I had was 70t. Using 30-120/35-127 I get .14mm per rev long feed, cross is much much slower. I have no guards at all, bearings are bronze in steel front and bronze in brass rear. Front had barely any bronze left. I had no gears to drive the feed shaft at all, had to buy some. Worse thing is mt in spindle has runnout, but nose is ok, I think my bore is only 20mm
    Cheers,
    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    119

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by j.ashburn View Post
    John here,checked a few things out on the Mars G S today.

    the lead screw is 8 tpi.
    Found the serial numbers tailstock was sitting on it 355 matching t/s no too.
    Hunting through the skungy l blue hammer tone [owner refurbished] paint on the tail stock found paint like an indian red to maroon colour down to bare metal is only primer so red the orig colour was.
    Measured the spindle and found about .001 in the middle of shaft on gear end [l h end] and 0.0015 -0.002 on the large shaft [chuck end].Slight galling on both more so chuck end and white metal in cones has fared better with the boundary lubrication.has had grease nipples added so be back to drip oilers or oil cups prob the latter as i never forget my pre flight checks.
    looks like 7/8 hollow spindle or abt 22mm end has been burred and needs to be re shaped.
    As I did say earlier the use for this was to be a travelling companion in the old coach and the more i do look and clean it up its not a bad thing. I love old machines and think this 1 worthy of the effort.has been sneered at by a few i suppose because of it's 6x4 trailer blue hue and looks folorn.
    1 thing didnt mention is the cover where the sliding 20 tooth gear goes is missing and the gear is loose out in the bits box that came with it. not sure on the connect up assuming [that word] the 120 tooth gear is for fine feed off the quadrant. the other assumption is that the 20 tooth slips in and out to engage. what's got me stumped is the long key way in the power feed shaft.
    All help received gratefully. Cheers John.
    Evening gents, Eweee's answered the query about the long keyway - yes, it is for the power feed, and it is engaged by sliding a knurled sleeve at the left hand end. I checked the diam of my spindle is the same as yours. Spindle bearing adjustment is done by screwed adjustment rings outboard of the headstock with a 'C' spanner (on the left and right hand of the headstock). I note Eweee's comment about brass bearing shell. I'd thought mine were bronze lined with Babbitt metal. You mention oil cups - I had a set of originals which were small metal screwed items and I originally wicked them with pipecleaners but replaced them with visiguage style. There are a couple of other threads on this site which feature Great Scot http://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/mars-atlas-lathe-restoration-141925/

    http://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/mars-bar-no-mars-lathe-124508/

    http://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/adjusting-replacing-babbit-bearings-mars-great-scot-lathe-brisbane-134688/ This last one has pics of my oilers and supplier. Look forward to hearing more of your progress. cheers, Mark

  13. #28
    Ueee's Avatar
    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    39
    Posts
    4,515

    Default

    Here is the pic of my leadscrew.....well i should say screws
    The worst is all the endfloat is dealt with at the RH end and the join is about a 1/4 of the way from the right, so the rest of the screw is just floating....

    Make sure when you adjust the bearings to shim the slit and tighten, this may be common knowledge but it wasn't to me and doing this made a big difference.
    http://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/th...lathes-169007/
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Ueee; 3rd Jun 2013 at 11:44 PM. Reason: added link
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    119

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    Here is the pic of my leadscrew.....well i should say screws
    The worst is all the endfloat is dealt with at the RH end and the join is about a 1/4 of the way from the right, so the rest of the screw is just floating....

    Make sure when you adjust the bearings to shim the slit and tighten, this may be common knowledge but it wasn't to me and doing this made a big difference.
    http://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/th...lathes-169007/
    Thanks - I've never seen that before - trying to work out what is holding it together - was it pinned with an internal shaft? You're right your thread form is also totally diff - Acme, rather an mine - pic. What's the solution? Hope this doesn't mean it's screwed DSC00596.jpgDSC00597.jpg By the way, thanks for the tip regarding shimming the slit - didn't know.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Charlestown NSW
    Age
    65
    Posts
    1,669

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    Here is the pic of my leadscrew.....well i should say screws
    /
    Ueee. How long is your leadscrew? I have an imperial screw and half nuts from a short bed Nuttall. Its used but in ok condition. If it could be modified for your lathe you are welcome to have it if you organise and pay for the freight.
    Overall length is about 1100mm and I think from memory its about 1" dia. I haven't been able to measure it closer than that atm as its all wrapped up in bubble wrap. Some time ago I offered it to a bloke who had bought a metric Nuttal off ebay but it all must have become too much for him to organise the freight and its been sitting here for a couple of years now all wrapped up.
    If yours is around that length I'm happy to unwrap this and take some more accurate measurements.


    For those with out a qcgb something like this might be worth considering. Theres a lot of this sort of thing out there apparently. It might be cheaper than making/sourcing gears etc
    Electronic Lead Screw Main Page

    regards
    bollie7

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. dividing plates, dividing head
    By eskimo in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 22
    Last Post: 4th Aug 2012, 06:17 PM
  2. Dividing Plate advice needed
    By Poloris in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 3rd Jun 2012, 12:43 AM
  3. Hercus Dividing Head - Division Plate
    By Anorak Bob in forum THE HERCUS AREA
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 25th Feb 2011, 11:27 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •