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  1. #1
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Default Dividing plate for 127 divisions

    Hi All,
    Some time ago Michael G offered to drill a dividing plate with 127 holes for those of us with RT's and basic dividing heads. I have had the 127 hole "steering wheel" for a few months now, but i finally got around to boring and mounting it, and making a new arm to hold the spring loaded detent pin. I used the pin from the purchased dividing set, which is held in with a grubscrew and a "light" interference fit. I just have to make a sector arm so that i can easily move the 90 holes required for each indexable point.
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    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  2. #2
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    Default

    Looks good so far.
    If you made up a link out of say 1mm steel with a hole in each end that was (127-90=37) holes (chord length) apart, you could swing it around in the opposite direction to the crank rotation to get the right spacing. Once you had indexed, the link could just hang on the plunger tip until needed again. For those with a 40:1 ratio I'd use a 40 hole spacing.

    Michael

  3. #3
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Default

    I started on some gears this arvo. Over the last few days i have made up a mandrel for the gears and arbor for the gear cutters. I am using M1.5 for all the new gears, using 14dp to match the existing gear would mean the 127 and 120t gears would be too big to fit on the banjo.
    I bought a small sheet of 12mm acetyl (Delrin) to cut the bigger gears from, cutout the blank with the jigsaw and took to boring and turning them. At 193.5mm in dia and 820rpm i was cutting at 1630f/m....The pic of the shavings all over the place says it all
    My $5 8-9" mic came in handy too, with the use of a 1" gauge block it was the only way i could measure the dia accurately.







    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

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    Default

    Would of thought you blokes with all the measuring gear would of had the right size mic or vernier or even a pye tape.

  5. #5
    Ueee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    Would of thought you blokes with all the measuring gear would of had the right size mic or vernier or even a pye tape.
    Not sure who the "blokes with all the measuring gear" are but i certainly wouldn't consider myself one. Not sure what that post was supposed to achieve, other than having a dig.....
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  6. #6
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    Default faceplate

    Hi Ewan

    How come the faceplate is there ? how is the mandrel supported ?

  7. #7
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    Hi Mike,
    the faceplate is only there so the spindle nose is not bare (not that plastic is going to effect it, but the last thing you want is lots of chips in your thread to have to clean out), and it also adds a flywheel. The Mandrel is in an ER40 collet in the spindles taper. I will use the same mandrel to hold the blank to cut the teeth on the mill. I made the mandrel from an old holden? axle, it can hold up to 5 gears at once, it is 3/4" dia, the thread and nut is M16 fine (1.5mm) cut the hard way without my automagical stop.
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

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    Default

    Nice work as usual Ueee

    I spoze that if a "bloke" actually owned a Pi Tape himself then he would know how sssspeeel it

  9. #9
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by shedhappens View Post
    Nice work as usual Ueee

    I spoze that if a "bloke" actually owned a Pi Tape himself then he would know how sssspeeel it
    I don't know what a Pi tape is - so thanks Pipeclay - another thing to find out about. The thing I like here Ueee is that it's all done on a 60+ year old Mars Great Scot - with accuracy. Well done!!

    Mark
    Last edited by markpest; 9th Nov 2012 at 09:35 AM. Reason: ? character was incorrect

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  11. #11
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    Default

    I have started cutting gears...what a dull job! with the delrin it takes about 30 sec per tooth, i would hate to be doing steel. I ended up making a sector arm out of .6 gal. I was going to drill holes on it for the spacings as Michael suggested, but if i had done it that way i would not have been able to rotate for the next spacing without pulling the detent pin out. Cutting delrin on the mill is not fun.....there is snow everywhere, even with the vac in use.

    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  12. #12
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    Default

    I think the worst part about doing large steel gears is the noise as I find they ring like crazy. (The utter boredom is the next thing of course).
    I like the sector - a neat solution.

    Michael

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    Hi Ewan,
    Looking good.

    Shame about the snow.

    Stuart

  14. #14
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    I am now done cutting gears, so the 127 hole dividing plate is available for anyone wanting to cut there own metric/imperial transposing gears.

    I have started working on new "holders" (i'm sure they have a proper name) for the gears on the banjo, i was worried about a key not being enough in the delrin so i went with 2 5mm dia pins with knurled nuts to hold the gears on the bearing. Now i just need to make similar holders for the driving gear and leadscrew gear. It will be interesting to see how well the smaller gears hold up and how quiet they will be.





    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  15. #15
    Ueee's Avatar
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    Its only been 5 months.......
    I stopped this project as i ran out of 50mm bar, and it was in making the banjo spindle that i crashed the Mars and that lead to the rebuild.....

    Anyway, i picked up some bar earlier this week and it is all finished now, except of course working out what other gears i need.....

    I made it all to be as tool-less as possible, i only need one size allan key (and myself) to adjust the banjo and the spindle for the middle gears. I also made the spindle so it was adjustable from the outside, a SHCS goes right through the spindle and into the t nut to clamp it in place.

    The gears are much quieter than the cast ones, and changing them is much quicker than it was. I'm still tossing up between a simple QCGB and going to a separately powered feed shaft. Maybe i should make both just for the fun of it

    Cheers
    Ew
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    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

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