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Thread: Question on end mills
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15th Oct 2012, 10:56 PM #1Member
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Question on end mills
Hi all,
Being new to the machining game, can someone please give me a simple answer to where one should use 2 flute, 3flute, or 4 flute end mills?? I have done some research but have never got a simple answer to the question. Maybe there isn't a simple answer.
I received a heap of small (1/8 to 1/4") 2, 3 and 4 flute end mills with my Hafco mill, and just don't know which to use on what materials. I eventually want to build a stationary live steam engine then a 5" gauge locomotive, so really need to understand the differences in how these end mills are used.
All advice greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
Ned
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15th Oct 2012, 11:15 PM #2
scan
Hi
this will help you
The only thing is: you can now buy 4 flute end mills that will plunge cut ...
So what he is saying is a little outdated
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15th Oct 2012, 11:36 PM #3Most Valued Member
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As I understand it.
2 flute end mills are called slot drills as thats what they are for, cutting slots.
If you use a 4 flute end mill for cutting slots there may not be enough room for the swarf if you are running the correct feed per tooth*.
4 flutes are more rigid than 2 when profiling and twice as fast for the same feed per tooth.
*how often do I work out feed per tooth? not often and as my power feed is 1-10 it wouldnt help me much anyway.
Stuart
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16th Oct 2012, 08:01 AM #4Member
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Thanks guys,
After reading that page, where he says 2 and 3 fluted mills are best suited to non-ferrous metals, am I correct in thinking they can't be used for ferrous metals? I can understand that the rigidity of 4 flute mills makes them better for the loads required in ferrous metals. For example, to cut say, a 1/4" slot, 1/4" deep in cold rolled steel, would I use a 2 or 4 flute end mill.
Hope these questions don't sound too dumb.
Thanks,
Ned
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16th Oct 2012, 08:12 AM #5
2 & 3 flute cutters can be used in ferrous metals, you may not be able to make as aggressive cuts as you may be able to do with a 4 flute cutter but unless you are driving your machine hard it shouldn't be an issue. The more flutes, the better the finish normally.
2 & 3 flute cutters often work better than a 4 flute cutter in aluminium as there is more clearance for the chips but I use all 3 types with no problems whatsoever.
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16th Oct 2012, 08:55 PM #6Most Valued Member
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From what I can understand, having just finished reading a book on milling, is that the cutting edge on a 2 spiral and 4 spiral cutter are different in as much that the 2 spiral cutting edges meets as per a drill bit, allowing it to drill it's way in, hence the name slotting cutter. The 4 has a dimple in the cutter leaving a point in the metal as it is impossible to get the cutting edges to meet, making it hard to use for slotting, it can be done done but only a small amount can be taken off at a time approx .5mm or less.
I don't know about the 3 spiral cutter as I haven't come across any.
Hope this helps.
Kryn
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16th Oct 2012, 09:34 PM #7Cba
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Ned, in the old days only 2-fluted mills were center cutting, and they were called slot drills. Multi-fluted milling cutters were not center cutting, and they were called end mills.
But then came the 3 fluted FC milling cutters, these were center cutting and they were called "throw away" milling cutters, because they were cheap enough, and because they were more difficult to re-grind than simple end mills.
Nowdays, especially for a home shop, I think you can completely forget about dedicated end mills. With low cost FC type cutters you can do everything. FC cutters have 3 flutes, one of which is longer and extends beyond the center. You can plunge cut with an FC cutter just as if it was a slot drill, and you can use it for roughing just as if it was a 4-fluted end mill. Saves you keeping stock of too many different cutters, saves you changing cutters, and FC cutters are dirt cheap. You can use them for any material in a home shop. They even work well as a drill in the lathe tailstock.
Only if you do a lot of work in Aluminium and plastics, you may consider getting a few 2 fluted cutters with a much tighter helix angle than usual. The tight spiral makes for a large positive rake angle, and at the same time helps transporting chips away from the cutting edge. And for smallish diameters, there are even single fluted center cutting milling cutters.
In the pro workshop with heavy and rigid milling machines, multi-fluted cutters help save time, as more tips engage into the workpiece at every revolution. In a home shop with often only light and low cost machines, it is easier to work with 2 or 3 fluted cutters, as these will chatter less at a given feed rate and require less motor power. For the same reason you will find that sharp cutters work better, and it is good to know that uncoated cutters are not only cheaper but also sharper than TIN coated cutters.
HSS-Co cutters are harder than HSS cutters and usually well worth the premium. Carbide cutters are even harder and more expensive, but also brittle and in a lightweight home mill may easily shatter due to chatter.
Chris
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16th Oct 2012, 09:35 PM #8Most Valued Member
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16th Oct 2012, 09:40 PM #9Most Valued Member
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16th Oct 2012, 09:42 PM #10Member
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NO!!! definitely not. With my machine and skill level, I think even a .025" cut would be adventurous. I just used the 1/4" x 1/4" as an example of the required result of a milling exercise.
Thanks to all who have replied - it is all very helpful information for someone starting out.
Cheers,
Ned
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16th Oct 2012, 09:46 PM #11Pink 10EE owner
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4 flute end mills will cut an oversize slot as the edges are 90 degrees behind one another..
slot drills for slots...
end mills for profiling...Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.
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16th Oct 2012, 10:05 PM #12
mills
I bought a set of the Asian made 4 flute end mills from OMNESTORE some time ago. 3 to 20 mm set of ten. They come in the typical light coloured varnished wooden box that most Chinese tooling comes in .
They are coated . They have been fine for what I do and are still sharp after quite a bit if use . They will plunge cut .
Downside is , I wouldn't think you could re-sharpen them because of the complicated way the 4 cutters are designed . When they go blunt - throw away . Mike
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16th Oct 2012, 11:40 PM #13I break stuff...
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I've got the same Ozmestore set, and while they're certainly functional, they don't cut anywhere near as well as the M2AL ones I bought from CTC - the difference is really noticeable. At $30 for a 7 pc set from CTC, the price is better too (IIRC), and he also sells singles, so you can replace just the ones you break (or add in the ones that are missing in comparision to the Ozmestore set). Grab yourself a couple one day, and see if you like them!
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17th Oct 2012, 07:04 AM #14Philomath in training
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This is my (current) favourite end mill - it's sort of 3 flute. Inserted but great for either facing or hogging out. It's 30mm diameter and this cut is 14mm deep. Because of the inserts there is a witness mark if using it to side cut so I have to do a clean up cut with HSS if I want a nice finish.
Michael
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17th Oct 2012, 10:43 AM #15
mills
I've got the same Ozmestore set, and while they're certainly functional, they don't cut anywhere near as well as the M2AL ones I bought from CTC - the difference is really noticeable. At $30 for a 7 pc set from CTC, the price is better too (IIRC), and he also sells singles, so you can replace just the ones you break (or add in the ones that are missing in comparision to the Ozmestore set). Grab yourself a couple one day, and see if you like them!
Is this the set
4 FLUTE HSS M2AL ENDMILL MILLING CUTTERS (7 PCS) #C96
Michael GThis is my (current) favourite end mill - it's sort of 3 flute. Inserted but great for either facing or hogging out. It's 30mm diameter and this cut is 14mm deep. Because of the inserts there is a witness mark if using it to side cut so I have to do a clean up cut with HSS if I want a nice finish.
Michael
Can you post a better pic of that cutter ? Cannot see it clearly while it is working .Thanks
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