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Thread: Lathe lubrication
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3rd Oct 2012, 08:40 PM #31
I just got an order of oilers from RDG in the UK. They seem pretty good and are priced very well too. If anyone has three spare 3/8" oilers I'd be happy to purchase them...5/16" is RDG's largest size and I don't feel like making a sleeve. (howzat for lazy?)
It's all part of the service here at The House of Pain™
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3rd Oct 2012, 08:49 PM #32
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3rd Oct 2012, 10:27 PM #33Philomath in training
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I found a couple Greg - it took around 15 minutes of ransacking, but the filing system worked! (Seek and ye shall find...)
MIchael
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5th Oct 2012, 12:01 AM #34Dave J Guest
If you need to get up and running fast, just oil the spot and then cut a small piece of cotton rag and roll it up and push it in lightly with a small screw driver. I have had to do this in the past and it stops swarf etc going in there until you replace the oiler.
Dave
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14th Oct 2012, 05:53 PM #35Member
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14th Oct 2012, 11:40 PM #36Senior Member
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Could it have been "If you want a light non-detergent oil, about like sewing machine oil, use automatic transmission fluid. If you want a good 'way lube, get some gear oil*, and add 1 oz. of MoS2 (= molybdenum disulfide, = Molycote) and 1 oz. of STP (which is apparently a silicon based product) to 1 quart of gear oil. Shake before using. This stuff will help clean out all the little (tiny) metal pieces that can get in between moving surfaces, and keep them in suspension until they come out and can be wiped off. The Moly is like pouring little ball bearings all over the place - they creep into the pores in the metal. and stay there, even when the oil gets wiped up. * 'gear oil' is not unlike ordinary engine oil, but it contains additives for extreme pressure service. Available at most any automotive service station; it is about equivalent in viscosity to a 50 weight engine oil. GBL Bedside Reader #2 Mark
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17th Oct 2012, 11:56 PM #37
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18th Oct 2012, 10:50 AM #38Most Valued Member
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19th Oct 2012, 01:32 AM #39Senior Member
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Thanks for this Rob. My response earlier was a direct quote from Guy Lautard's Reader. I have no reason to doubt your comments though. Interesting. Maybe a lame question, but why detergents in ATF?
Mark
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19th Oct 2012, 08:59 AM #40Most Valued Member
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The auto transmissions have clutch plates in them that wear and also are subject to a lot of heat, producing varnish and particles.
The detergent and additives in ATF are why you shouldn't run a diesel engine on this stuff at 100% strength - truckies often put some ATF in the diesel to clean the injectors (that's the detergent working).
Too much ATF will carbon up the cylinder heads from the non burning/heat resisting nature of the additives.
Cheers
Rob
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19th Oct 2012, 09:19 AM #41Senior Member
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Thanks Rob. I will treat ATF with more respect. Appreciate the details.
Mark
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19th Oct 2012, 11:52 AM #42Most Valued Member
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Hi all,
Here's a quick question related to the topic. When replacing sealed bearings in a lathe or mill or any machine that is in an oil bath, do you remove the seals or shield of the bearing to let the oil in? The bearings are pre-packed with grease and the seals are designed to keep dirt out and grease in but in an oil bath type gearbox, is there any use? Eventually the grease will wash out anyway. Perhaps the bearings that sit above the oil line need to be kept sealed to keep grease in?
Also I notice that most bearings are a ZZ metal shield, does it matter if you replace with a 2RS rubber seal?
Hope the question is not too OT.
Cheers,
Simon
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19th Oct 2012, 12:27 PM #43Most Valued Member
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I would think the original bearings were sealed for a reason.
They are probably sealed to prevent oil from seeping out through the bearing into external areas.
I would leave them as they are.
Metal seals can be interchanged with neoprene (they are not rubber).
Cheers
Rob
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19th Oct 2012, 02:38 PM #44Most Valued Member
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Hi Rob, I think you may have misunderstood me, or more likely that I have not explained myself properly. The outer race bearing seats are machined into the casting of the head (mill) or headstock (lathe) and are a blind seat in that they do not continue to the outside so no sealing is required. On my lathe when the bearing seat does continue to the outside world, it's then covered by either a cover plate and gasket or an oil seal. The RS seal or ZZ shield are not relied on to keep oil from seeping out.
So these seals do not perform any function that I can see.
Simon
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19th Oct 2012, 03:52 PM #45Philomath in training
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RS is a seal - meant to keep things in or out
Z is a shield - meant to keep most things out (but lower friction than a seal).
If the bearing is being run in an oil bath you can probably remove the seal or shield provided that the oil is a suitable lubricant. You may want to wash out the grease so there is no contamination.
Michael
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