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Thread: Scraping a plane sole
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26th Aug 2012, 12:02 PM #1Rank Beginner
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- Jun 2011
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Scraping a plane sole
Hi guys, I've been investigating an alternative method for flattening the soles of handplanes. The most common method is abrasive sheet lapping, but I haven't found this gives reliable results; and is completely useless when the sole is convex.
I want to try scraping instead. I purchased a small granite surface plate from Carbatec and am working on acquiring some Prussian blue.
I don't know what sort of scraper to use. I can use a small, Bahco scraper from eBay with a carbide blade. However, this would be expensive and the small size of the scraper handle would, I imagine, provide less control. I would also need diamond sharpening equipment, which would be further expense.
Alternatively, I can use a hardened steel scraper, like this: FAITHFULL Engineers Hand Scraper 100mm (4in) Flat on eBay!. This is my preference. Although I'd have to sharpen it much more often, I've no issue with doing that; I've got all the gear that I'd need, and the experience to sharpen most things effectively. It's also cheap as chips. Given the relatively small amount of scraping I have to do, this seems to make better sense.
My real confusion is about which shape of scraper I need. The Faithfull brand scrapers come in triangular, flat and half-round shapes. Which do I need for this job? Do I need different scrapers for different types of work (rough work versus fine work)?
I'd be happy to use a different brand, incidentally, I simply can't find any.Cheers,
Eddie
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26th Aug 2012, 12:23 PM #2Most Valued Member
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The shapes more to do with what your scraping.
For what you are doing you would just use the flat type.
Have you considered just using an old file or if capable welding or brazeing a piece of HSS to a suitable length of bar.
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26th Aug 2012, 01:48 PM #3
You may find that using an HSS blade will be an excercise in constant honing.
Ebay has cheap diamond wheels, but you can also buy a carbide scraper already formed on a 90mm radius (which is a good all-purpose curve)
One the curve is formed it only will require lapping every hour or so. If you can get or make a cast iron or aluminium wheel about 100 to 150mm dia you can charge it with cheap diamond paste (ebay) of 5 to 10 micron size.
If you spend a bit you'll be able to do all your soles then sell the kit to the next woodworker after posting how great your results were!
GregIt's all part of the service here at The House of Pain™
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27th Aug 2012, 09:24 AM #4Most Valued Member
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Eddie search this forum for scraping...some good info are in them
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27th Aug 2012, 11:24 AM #5Most Valued Member
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Hi Eddie,
Where about in Melbourne are you?
Stuart
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28th Aug 2012, 01:59 PM #6Rank Beginner
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Stustoys, I live in the Eastern suburbs near Oakleigh. I'd be delighted if I could beg borrow or steal (or of course buy) a scraper from you, if that's what you have in mind. Please pm me. Or if you have a recommendation for sourcing parts in Melbourne, please fire away - I don't mind a drive.
Greg, when you say constant honing, do you mean more than once every fifteen minutes, say?Cheers,
Eddie
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28th Aug 2012, 02:07 PM #7
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28th Aug 2012, 06:04 PM #8Diamond Member
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Plane Scraping
Eddie
Here are some photos I took when scraping & restoring a No 3 Stanley plane.
The Scraper alongside the Plane was made out of a metal file by me about 55 yrs ago.
Its done a lot of scraping.
The file teeth, were ground off, the end of the file heated to orange & hand forged, to thin & widen the cutting end, & allowed to cool slowly.
The cutting tip was then heated to cherry red, quenched in oil,& ground honed to the correct profile.
The cutting edge remained glass hard, not tempered.
Being carbon steel, it is easily honed on a conventional oil stone, to maintain sharpness.
The other photo shows a Carbide Insert Scraper I made before the last Scraping course in Melb back in April this year.
The Carbide is superior, however I am offering the Carbon Steel ( File) alternative as something that is simple low cost & it works.
regards
Bruce
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28th Aug 2012, 07:18 PM #9.
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I'm impressed Bruce. That No.3 is older than you. If my memory serves me well, Stanley introduced the high knob in 1919.
BT
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28th Aug 2012, 09:51 PM #10Diamond Member
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No 3 Stanley Plane
Spot on Bob.
This was an item I purchased on EBay. The only purchase on E Bay that I have not been satisfied with.
When I received it, I was very dissapointed, as it was not as described.
The rear handle in Beech was all twisted & warped.The rest of the plane including the brass adjuster needed work
So it was one of those moments, & I thought "Stuff It" dont complain just fix it.
I made a new handle out of American Walnut coated it with shellac, then steel wool & wax. Replaced the Blade (Iron) with a new Lie Nielsen A2 steel.
Tuned the metal adjusters & matched the back iron to the Blade (Iron) & rescraped the base.
Now its one of my favourite planes.
Works well, & as you say, has a history about it.
regards
Bruce
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29th Aug 2012, 12:26 AM #11Most Valued Member
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Hi Eddie,
I've been thinking, but the problem is I dont have any HSS scrapers and you cant sharpen carbide. I guess if I make up a scraper and send you off with 8 sharp edges you should be able to get a plane done.
Though I did grind up an old file I haven't tried it again since I got a "real" scraper. I can only assume that if carbon steel or HSS had anything going for them Phil and Marko would be using them.
Stuart
p.s. It might take me a while to get my together. I need another job! lolLast edited by Stustoys; 29th Aug 2012 at 12:30 AM. Reason: p.s.
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29th Aug 2012, 01:02 AM #12Novice
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- Hobart
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Hi Eddie
I second the old file route. I have scraped probably 5 or 6 planes soles using an old mill file.
If you are not fussy, there is no need to do any heat treating to the file, just carefully grind the teeth completely off on the tip of the file (don't let it blue or you will have to re-harden) in the cutting area and just enough on the rest of the file to make it comfortable to hold.
I found that the the quickest way to sharpen was just a quick touch on the disc on my cheapo belt sander. It seemed to me that the slight burr left by the sander gave the scraper a more agressive bite. One sharpen would generally be good for one bluing so 30 seconds on the belt sander and I was right to go again
For a flat surface, I just use a piece of thick glass. It may not be a s flat as a granite slab, but it was more than adequate for a plane sole.
Regards
John
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29th Aug 2012, 02:46 AM #13
I also have done the old file thing, a 10 or 12" long flat, just ground the teeth off 1/2" up the file and a radius on the end, shaped on the bench grinder AL oxide wheel 40# does leave it a bit rough but it did what I wanted a hone on a stone would have given a better finish
Pete
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29th Aug 2012, 07:55 AM #14Philomath in training
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Stuart, the main difference between a converted file and a carbide scraper in use is that the steel scraper needs sharpening often - like every few cycles.People like Phil and Marko would not use one if they could help it because their productivity would decline massively.
For a job the size of a plane, a steel scraper should be alright. It will just take a little longer.
Michael
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29th Aug 2012, 11:33 AM #15Most Valued Member
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Hi Micheal,
I didnt mean to imply anything against converted files, just that carbide must do as good a job(so the lasting longer between sharpenings is a bonus). In fact I've decided as I planned on scraping my plane, I'll dig out the old file and give it a side by side with the carbide.
Stuart