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  1. #16
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    .
    I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.


    Regards, Woodwould.

  2. #17
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    I bought a couple of Beaver brand, 2 metre, 1 tonne slings for the shed hoist.
    They meet the relevant Australian standards and have a signed compliance/testing certificate.
    They cost under $20 each.

  3. #18
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    May 2010
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    lifting sling | eBay I have some 1T and some 3T ones and they have been fine so far (limited use).

  4. #19
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Back to the bunnies rope, i have used the silver rope for years to tie things down and have never had it fail. I have an old sailing main sheet that i use to lift smaller stuff with the crane but i have a 2t sling that i use for heavy stuff.
    I'm glad you where not under the sheets Mark!
    BTW, your 2 sheets of MDF should have weighed in at 202kg or so....even worse for the rope's reputation.
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  5. #20
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    Hi Graziano,

    I'm glad to hear you are OK and not contributed to another Dawin Award!

    As you have found out, there is rope and then there is rope. When it comes to lifting heavy stuff or stuff that really matters to you then you need rope that is rated. When I mean rated I mean rated with either a SWL or a WLL. This is not the breaking strain of the rope. Depending on the AS or the safety factor involved the WLL can be up to 10x the breaking strain. Generally the higher safety factors of 7X and above are generally for live loads or where equipment may be used for rescue.

    If a rope has a breaking strain of 250Kg, it does not take much achieve it's breaking strain long before you lift anywhere near that mass. As a general rule, a knot tied in the rope will reduce the breaking strain by anything from 15 - 20% depending on the type of knot and how well it is tied or dressed. Once a rope is forced to change direction under load by anything less than about a radius of 10 times it's thickness, it too will reduce it's load carrying capacity too. Example, 10mm rope should not be pulled over a radius of less than 100mm if possible.

    Then there are mechanical advantages that may increase the stress on the rope, or at the very least, due to the frictional nature may cause further degredation by heating up the rope in very localised areas. Then there are other factors such as if it was shockloaded previously and damaged some of the fibres.

    For lifting, at the very least, go to a climbing store or a good camping store and buy some "tape rope" it is cheap as chips per metre but it is rated. I can't for the life of me remember their typical rating but it's about 1000Kg or there abouts.

    Better still, like others have suggested by a few lifting slings and be very aware of exactly what you are asking of your rope relative to it's breaking strain.

    Cheers,

    Simon

  6. #21
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    Mar 2010
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    I do have to look into buying slings, in this case I would have required 2x 4 metre long slings absolute minimum. At present it being the weekend, I spent the same money I did on the fake rope ($10) and bought some 10mm thick nylon rope from Supercheap which claims it's good for 480Kg (will see on the label if that's rated load or breaking strain). Two loops of that should be a good margin over 200Kg (Thanks Ueee) and pad the sharp edges with cloth .

    The main problem I had with the previous rope was that it superficially appeared the same as the previously useful rope but is now so weak as to not really be fit for purpose, plastic lolly wrapper not being a good core material for ropes. How many other people bought this stuff to tie a load on with as a one off job and had it stretch and fail at highway speeds?.

  7. #22
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    May 2012
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    Total Tools just had a sale on slings. I got a pair of 1m and a pair of 2m ones which have been real handy for picking up heavy stuff with my engine crane.


  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by P J View Post
    Total Tools just had a sale on slings. I got a pair of 1m and a pair of 2m ones which have been real handy for picking up heavy stuff with my engine crane.

    I picked up a few of them on special a while back. They are great value and give good piece of mind when lifting.

    Simon

  9. #24
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    Default Rubbish rope.

    Bought a hank of cheap stuff at local hardware chain the other day, so thanks for the warning. Will look at it very closely.
    Also bought some lighter weight silky orange colored 50mm ratchet straps last year. Seemed strong enough, but left a load strapped to a trailer outdoors in our tropical sun for several weeks, thought they looked a bit faded, went to tighten the load before travelling, and they snapped in a puff of dust. Only useful indoors? Lucky escape methinks! Combustor.
    Old iron in the Outback, Kimberley WA.

  10. #25
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    Well I successfully lifted the load yesterday and got four sheets lifted in two loads. I used the Supercheap Auto 10mm poly rope with a listed breaking strain of 480 Kg. I hesitate to say safely but it was successful, this time I used two loops of the rope round two sheets at a time. A 4 metre long lifting strap would have been great to have at the time but the poly rope did the job, I used ratchet straps to strap the sheets together and lifted them flat/horizontal to have the necessary clearance.

    Supercheap sell a superficially similar rope to the other dodgy product for the same price too, but it's colour is grey with black dots and unlike the dodgy product it has the linear fibre core so it's actually a real rope, maybe theirs is grey/black so it can't be mistaken for the other colourful type. The Supercheap one has four dots of colour woven into the sheath, the previously good, older hardware chain rope has four dots of colour woven into the sheath and the fake rope has only one dot of colour woven into the sheath. This may be coincidence rather than a manufacturer's indication of strength.

    Combustor: it'll be interesting to see if you have the same fake rope product, I expect it would work for a short period before stretching and snapping. As far as the ratchet straps I use on the ute go, I keep turning them over and replacing them, they're cheap enough and if you use enough, then a single failure won't lose the load.
    Last edited by Graziano; 16th Jul 2012 at 11:31 AM. Reason: Changes nuber of dots found in the various ropes

  11. #26
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    I have seen that rope with the lollie paper internals used to lash the loads on boats carrying cargo from China... It is not unusual to just see that silvery inner core used...

    It is amazing what you see the chinese use.. One time I saw the floor of the cargo hold lined with 40kg fertilizer bags that had been cut open and sewn together in a big tarp... We are not talking a small area but a hold say 15m wide and 20m long.. and 3, 4, 5 holds on a ship..
    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by .RC. View Post
    I have seen that rope with the lollie paper internals used to lash the loads on boats carrying cargo from China... It is not unusual to just see that silvery inner core used...

    It is amazing what you see the chinese use.. One time I saw the floor of the cargo hold lined with 40kg fertilizer bags that had been cut open and sewn together in a big tarp... We are not talking a small area but a hold say 15m wide and 20m long.. and 3, 4, 5 holds on a ship..

    I've seen that material before, it's like a thin, synthetic dishcloth material: it was used as a wrapper to protect an LCD monitor from scratches on the screen. I guess labour is cheap enough to make stitching bags together worthwhile, someone must have a business making them.

  13. #28
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    Silver Rope is the way to go.

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by eskimo View Post
    Silver Rope is the way to go.
    Agree. Easy to tie decent knots, easy to splice, known quantity, used everywhere by fishermen etc.

    I have some decent braided rope because I was given it, but I've never bought any.

    PDW

  15. #30
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Quote Originally Posted by eskimo View Post
    Silver Rope is the way to go.
    Not sure if i mentioned it earlier but i absolutely agree. Never seen a silver rope break (i have seen it cut on the sharp edges of whiteboard). Its even fairly easy to get knots out of when it is wet.
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

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