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Thread: best steel
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6th Jun 2012, 03:37 PM #1Most Valued Member
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best steel
if I wanted to make a carbide insert lathe tool holder or copy of Ken's or Dave's knurling tools ...what would be the best steel to make it from?
Or for that matter what steels are best suited to and for what for the home machinist
remember I dont own everything (even though I have just put a deposit down on a Repcopower SBO surface grinder 30mins ago ) so dont point me at stuff I cant use or afford
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6th Jun 2012, 04:00 PM #2
I tend to use whatever is available at the steel sellers but have a preference for bms (bright mild steel) and silver steel rod for pins as it can be hardened.
Lots of places on the net I use ebay, Quicksales or Minitech in bris....Rob is good to deal with
PeteBoycott Shampoo!!
Demand Real Poo!
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6th Jun 2012, 04:17 PM #3Dave J Guest
I just used mild steel for the knurling tool, I think it's going to be a long time before it wears out.
For your tool holder you would want something that can be hardened pretty good and maybe even think about a seat under the tip. I am not sure what sort of holder you are making, but they are so cheap to buy from CTC etc, I would just but one unless it's a custom one?
Ray has the heat treatment oven, talk to him if you going through with the tool holder, as your going to need it hardened and he is the only one I know of other than commercial places that give you strange looks when you ask for a one off job.
Dave
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6th Jun 2012, 04:24 PM #4.
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For what it is worth Richard, I made the arms on my knurler from 3/4" x 3/4" 1020 bar. Leaves sufficient room for a socket set screw to retain the axle pin if 1/4" wide wheels are used. I used Unbrako dowel pins for the axles.
BT
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6th Jun 2012, 06:26 PM #5Pink 10EE owner
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mild steel bar is good enough....
Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.
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6th Jun 2012, 07:45 PM #6
Eskimo,
I made my knurler from S1214 BMS, I just keep it oiled up so the dreaded surface rust doesn't arise. One day I'll look at blackening it.
I originally used shouldered socket head cap-screws for the knurl axles but they wore out after a while. I was then going to harden some silver steel to make new axles but before I got around to that I got a couple of die ejector pins from Hales at Plympton and they work a treat.
Rgds - Gavin
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6th Jun 2012, 08:16 PM #7Dave J Guest
I posted a picture of Gavin's Knurler up in my Knurler thread.
Nice job and looks good as well.
Dave
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7th Jun 2012, 01:35 AM #8
Hi Eskimo,
For most home stuff mild steel is fine. I like to use silver steel for shafts that may cop a bit of stress, but its probably overkill, and certainly not cheap. If you want something a bit tougher on the cheap, look out for railway iron. I've just had a google but cant seem to find out for sure, but i remember that it is 4140 or similar. From experience it is certainly much tougher than MS. The biggest problem is cutting into useful sized pieces and getting rid of the work-hardened section at the top.
I have also used old car axles, leaf springs and swaybars for things. I think the axles are just case hardened or perhaps work hardened if they are forged. Leaf springs are 5160, not sure on the swaybars, they make good punches and drifts though.
Otherwise obtaining carbon steels is pretty difficult here in Aus, I import all my sword material from the states as it is cheaper and there is a lot more choice.1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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7th Jun 2012, 06:00 AM #9Home Hobbist
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Hi eskimo,
I have attached a pdf from Onesteel on some of their metals that you might find helpful.
Regards,
Keith_W
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7th Jun 2012, 09:22 AM #10Golden Member
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I'm partial to deformed steel reo bar for making boring bars. The stuff stamped AS500 is common and to me appears to have fair bit more strength than mild steel, i.e. 500 MPa yield vs. 300 or so MPa as well as higher carbon and manganese content. I just treat it like a very rough bar and machine the bumps off, grind a few flats on the belt linisher and then cut the recess for an insert. I would like to know a source of the correctly tapered screws to fit the insert tapered hole.
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7th Jun 2012, 09:35 AM #11Most Valued Member
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thanks everyone.
sounds like the old electric motor shafts (some up to 3inch dia) I collect from my motor repairer will have to be the go.
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7th Jun 2012, 09:39 AM #12.
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7th Jun 2012, 09:40 AM #13Golden Member
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7th Jun 2012, 09:48 AM #14Most Valued Member
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depends on inserts and toolholder manufacturer your using I guess
You might find something at Travers Tools catalog pages 376 list Iscar screws and further onwards there are some others
Travers Catalogs - Master 2012 - page 376
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7th Jun 2012, 10:31 AM #15Distracted Member
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The best steel is the stuff you get for free. The next best might be the stuff you get cheap at auction. I got an assortment this way. If you're buying retail, it becomes a question of what's readily available. Maybe in the big smoke you get more choice but out my way you get mild, 1045, 4140 and not much else, unless you want to order a 6m length. I think 1045 is a pretty good general purpose steel. Machines a bit better than mild. Could be what your motor shafts are anyway.
BTW, thanks Keith_W for that excellent Onesteel document.
PS: All my home made tool holders are mild. No idea what the commercial ones are.