Thread: Shaper table feed ratchet

Hi,
I asked this in my shaper thread, but it will probably get lost amongst all the pics, so i have started a new thread.
I need to make a new pawl for the table feed ratchet, but am unsure of what to use. MS appeals to me as it should not damage the gear, but am worried it will not last. The other option is to use silver steel and harden the point.
Suggestions please???

You're right, it did, or more to the point I forgot in my reply.
How hard is it to make?
If it's going to take a lot of set ups and I had the material I might just make one of each, put the MS on in and see how it goes. I'd think for the hours we are likely to put on them MS would get by. My mill has just ticked over a massive 50 hours!
I dont recall what they look like but if the gear is like most of the others I've seen, knocking up a new one wouldnt be a big deal either....... in fact I'd think it would be easier that the ratch(assume you have a dividing head of some sort).

Stuart

Hi Ueee,
"Usually"...(at least, in my experience)...the actual feed "gear" on a Shaper, is quite hard...or has been hardened out.

...and, having said that...it then follows that you want to "protect" the "gear" as much as possible...
i.e. it's much easier to make a new "pawl", than to have to make a new "gear"!

Therefore...In my eyes...make the "pawl" relatively soft...so that (worst case scenario)...it is the pawl that wears...NOT the "gear".

Silver Steel (in the un-hardened, supplied state)...will be fine, as there is not (usually) a lot of load inparted on the pawl...

Overload "protection" (at least on the Elliott/Invicata/Alba ranges, of which, I am familiar) was provided by having a simple "shear pin" located in the drive to the table feed...to "protect" the machine when required.

Regards & my two pennies worth...
Neebs (aka Adrian)

PS I have had to repair a feed "gear" in the past (from a Boxford Shaper) for a guy...The feed / job had jammed and the loading had snapped a "tooth" clean off the feed gear...The "gear" was hardened right out...so I had to use a Surface Grinder to cut a "new toothspace root", for the repair.

Originally Posted by Neebs

Overload "protection" (at least on the Elliott/Invicata/Alba ranges, of which, I am familiar) was provided by having a simple "shear pin" located in the drive to the table feed...to "protect" the machine when required.

Talking about those pins.......... Do you have any idea what they are meant to be made of?

Stuart

Hi Stuart,

Usually, we would just use a suitable "bit" chopped off the appropriate diameter of Mild Steel Oxy/Acet Welding Wire...and that's a bunch of guys working in the Toolroom by the way


Or, possibly, for you guys "down under"...a bit of No.8? Fencing Wire

Seriously...we used to use the Oxy/Acet Welding Wire virtually all the time, with no ill effects...Big plus point being that it was always readily available.
You just need "something" that will "shear" with reasonable effort...hence the suggestion that you use Mild Steel...as opposed to a soft iron wire.

On a similar vein, and still with regard to "shear pins"...
On my Myford Lathes I have always used a piece of 1/8" Dia Brass Rod as the "shear pin" fitted in the LeadScrew...to prevent damage from "jam ups". Cheaper and easier that using anything "harder" and then being faced with a major repair bill...especially at Myford prices

Regards,
Neebs (aka Adrian)

Hi Adrian,
How about a suitably sized nail?

Yes my lathe as brass taper pins on the lead screw and power feed

Stuart

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Hi Adrian,
How about a suitably sized nail?

Yes my lathe as brass taper pins on the lead screw and power feed

Stuart

Ewan, I think mild steel will be fine, if it wears (which is unlikely in a home shop) you can always make a new one, but I think it will see you out it you keep it oiled.


Stuart,
Your lucky, my lathe came with steel taper pins and they are still in there as I have never got around to replacing them. I did have one crash many years ago and it spun the input gear to the gear box that had a half key set up, and made me wonder why it was so hard to get off a few weeks latter. Even though I promised myself to put brass in at the time, it's still steel. LOL

Your mill has only 50 hours, I thought it would have been more than that. I have run the belts off mine nearly, any day they are going to go with 3 breaks in one, so I do need to go and chase up replacements, LOL

Dave

Those brass pins must cost a lot as each shaft has one steel pin and one brass pin......I would have thought it would be easier to have all brass. Maybe thats what happened to you Dave, they used all the brass ones until they ran out and used all steel lol I dont feel so bad about taking so long to get my X axis travel back... fix it :P

Its amazing how much time goes into set up for one offs...... at least for me.

Where are the pictures Ueee?

Stuart

Are yours taper pins, thats what mine are.

That lathe will feel nice when your done, just keep thinking about that and don't be like me with the shaper, I still haven't got back to it.

Oh yeah
I thought of your new business name
Stuart's Scraping Service "SSS" has a ring to it doesn't it.
When can I send mine down to be done???

Dave

Ok, so here is a pic,
I know it doesnt look too bad, but i already touched it up a bit. The biggest problem is that it is too short. Even the knob has been ground down to the point where the pin has started to break through the bottom. The other problem is there is almost none of the larger dia part left in the holder.

You should be right with mild steel for that. When you make a new one, make it so you can see the direction easy. Something like a pointer machined into it or a little handle to show you which way it's going.

Dave