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Thread: Scissor knurl
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1st Jun 2012, 12:32 AM #16Dave J Guest
Hi Bob,
Your knurls are fine, I would just slop oil over it as well (and usually do) for one or 2, but I am doing 60, 46 for the tool holders and the rest are spares for more tool holders latter when I get some larger steel, so I never never have to make them again.
Like I said above I don't have coolant on my lathe, but thought for this job I need it to help out with all the knurling I am doing.
Dave
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1st Jun 2012, 01:38 AM #17Dave J Guest
I added a few better photos to the original post. It's so hard to get a good photo of all black.
Here is some of the knob
Dave
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1st Jun 2012, 07:47 AM #18Philomath in training
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To answer Ewan's concern, the Aloris version can do up to 2" diameter as a scissor type knurler. However, I did do a knurl around 84mm as a push knurl.
Michael
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1st Jun 2012, 10:11 AM #19Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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Nice work Dave and other gents. Thanks for the tips about not using oil and flood cooling instead.
I have two pus type knurlers, the same knurling tool as the first pic that Dave posted, and also this QCTP one from AMH
But I like the idea of converting the Aussie one into a scissors type knurlier, another one to add to the TODO list.
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1st Jun 2012, 10:25 AM #20.
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I have a twin wheel Lock like Dave's. The sound of my little plain bearing Hercus groaning when I used that and another single wheel knurler was what made me make my scissor version.
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1st Jun 2012, 12:30 PM #21Banned
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Nice knurler, I like that design, I think I'll make one too. I wish you'd shrink your pics mate, difficult to see and a little blurry that size.
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1st Jun 2012, 01:36 PM #22Dave J Guest
I have the same thing happen on my lathe Bob, so it's not just plain bearing doing it. Also I think of the pore cross slide nut when doing steel and usually always have to readjust it after knurling as I have it set slightly tight for minimum backlash.
Aluminium is fine for push and I would do it all day, but after building this and seeing how easy it is on the lathe I will use this from now on.
Dave
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1st Jun 2012, 01:40 PM #23Dave J Guest
Thanks guys,
Sorry about the picture quality. I usually get good pictures from this camera, but I don't know what was going on as I had to delete around 20 or more to get those ones. Maybe the camera needs a clean or something, not sure.
I did add extra pictures late last night because I saw there was a problem with quality, I can try taking some more pictures today (maybe outside) if you would like some more posted?
Dave
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3rd Jun 2012, 02:00 AM #24Dave J Guest
Well it did it's job, all 61 really easy.
The first thing to go was that knob, absolutely useless for a repetitious job. The trouble is it was awkward and you need to get the knurls in the work as as quick as possible, so I found a scrap bit of square and tapped that M6 to suit which work great.
I will be making a handle like BT's soon, but didn't have time tonight as I wanted this job done.
With this as a handle I was able to position the handle in the same direction for each one after testing the first for depth. Also it gave a lot of leverage so it made it really easy, and when undoing it quickly to get the knurl out of the work, I found I could give it a flick and it would spin undone. With the knob I had, it would have needed mark it and being light it would have no momentum to undo itself.
All up it took a few hours with a few stops in between to do the lot.
This is my temporary coolant set up tapped into the mill. It's just an old coolant bottle cut in half and cable tied and wired to the lathe. It only took around 20 minutes to make, and most of that time was looking for things to use.
And the knurling
A lot of the swarf floated down the drain and will be caught up by the magnet in the mill tank, but this is what was left in the tray. Better to flush this stuff away from your work than have it embed itself into you job.
Now I just have to finish shaping the adjusters, but thats the knurling out of the way.
If anyone is thinking about one of these, you wont regret it, and you will never go back to a push knurler.
Dave
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3rd Jun 2012, 02:14 AM #25Dave J Guest
One other problem in use
In a few of the pictures above you can see I added a bolt to pull the sides of the knurler in a bit. They must have moved out in the heating for the oil blackening process, so this fixed it and will give adjustment for latter on when things bed in.
I do plan to put a counter sunk socket screw in there, but I never had one long enough here at the moment.
Dave
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3rd Jun 2012, 08:55 AM #26Philomath in training
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Nice work there Dave, although I do think you could do with more hoses between the lathe and the mill
Michael
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3rd Jun 2012, 09:11 AM #27.
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Hey Dave,
Well done.
This would have been a perfect project for that old Ward. I imagine you had to change tools 61 times. Even a rear tool post would have been useful, reducing the number of changes.
Bob.
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3rd Jun 2012, 10:43 AM #28Diamond Member
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Nice Work
Nice work Dave.
The scissor knurl is a winner. Since I got mine I never pick up the old push knurl, anymore.
This job of yours would be like playing music when done on a Turret or Capstan Lathe.
Just as a matter of interest was the tap you used a straight or spiral flute.
I ask this as I have had discussion & notes with BT Bob. I have a few spiral flute BSW taps & they cut beautifully on the lathe.
regards
Bruce
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3rd Jun 2012, 10:48 AM #29Senior Member
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Good thinking 99....
A great idea and nice work.
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3rd Jun 2012, 11:26 AM #30
Nice one Dave
I do like your coolant setup.....custom drip tray and all! The other guys seem to think that you made the knobs and knurled in one go, but it looks to me like you are using a threaded arbour, and just did the knurling?1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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