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Thread: New metal top on work bench
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20th May 2012, 02:21 PM #1
New metal top on work bench
G'day!
I'm putting a new top on my general purpose work bench, and was considering putting a metal sheet of some sort over the top of the wood so that I can also weld on the bench instead of the floor
Any opinions on if I should use aluminium or stainless, and what thickness it should be? ie; any advantage going thicker than 1mm?
The bench is 2400 x 1200 with only a few tools bolted down (drill / grinder / vice) so I was going to glue two 1200x1200 sheets directly to the top then drill & bolt the tools back down.
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20th May 2012, 03:36 PM #2Intermediate Member
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Hi Codefox,
If it were my wooden topped general workbench, I would use a single sheet (2400mmx1200mm)of galvanised (or equivalent) sheet steel - thickness between 0.9mm and 1.6mm.
I would do this for a few reasons:
1. Two sheets will have a join that will always allow liquids and fines to get between and either leak through or cause it to lift at the joint.
2. I would use the thin galvanised steel as it is relatively cheap and can be replaced easily if damaged unlike more expensive aluminium or stainless sheet.
3. Being thin it allows the underlying timber to provide some give when objects are moved around upon it - thus preventing damage to the surfaces and particularly the edges of finely machined objects.
In terms of a welding bench, a steel topped bench is usually better as it allows one to tack to it if required for fabrication or other welding needs, has the strength to support heavy items, allows items being worked on to be hammered into right fit, and allows one to have a dedicated earth connection for the welding process.
I don't know your exact situation, so my apologies if I am presuming space that you mightn't have for a dedicated work bench.
Regards
Quentin
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20th May 2012, 04:00 PM #3Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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I wouldn't glue them. If you really damaged the top it would be useful to be able replace it.
Although I have a small (600 x 900) dedicated steel topped welding bench I also sometimes weld on my bigger (2200 x 900) workbench - I just place a sheet of 1.2 mm steel on top of the bench and then remove it when I'm done. I don't bother to bolt it down it never seems to move.
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20th May 2012, 04:22 PM #4Dave J Guest
I agree with Bob about not bolting it down, the machines will do that and if you find a corner that needs holding down you can always put a screw in it.
I would go a bit thicker with 1.6mm sheet. It's not much more expensive and if your not using glue the money saved on that will cover it. I think from memory the 8 x 4 sheet is around $80.
Dave
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20th May 2012, 06:21 PM #5Philomath in training
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The trouble with a thin metal top on a timber bench is that if you are not careful you can scorch or burn the flammable material (wood) underneath the metal.
Because the metal covers the wood, you have no way of knowing whether it has just been browned, scorched or charred - and whether the burning has stopped or is continuing.
I use MDF with galv sheet coverings for work benches but for welding I have a small steel folding table that I put a bit of 3mm Al sheet on when needed. Much safer and simpler than doing the 30 minute post hot work fire watch.
MichaelLast edited by Michael G; 20th May 2012 at 06:21 PM. Reason: missed a word
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20th May 2012, 06:42 PM #6Diamond Member
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Hi,
For welding I wouldn't use anything that has been galvanised, its gives off toxic fumes when welded. I made up a small welding table that I put onto of my table when the need arises.
Ben
ps I only found out the other day that you shouldn't weld material that has brake fluid cleaner on it (ie to clean it before welding etc). Highly dangerous to your health.
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20th May 2012, 06:53 PM #7Most Valued Member
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Hi CodeFox,
I put 2.0mm black sheet on mine.
You can have a look here
http://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/yo...ml#post1461133
Phil
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20th May 2012, 07:13 PM #8
Thanks for the ideas. I was going to avoid gal due to the fumes. Black will rust to quickly in my environment, so it's aluminium or stainless.
The two 1200 sheets was purely for handling as there's nobody around here to give me a hand. I'll take Cueball's advice tho and go for a single large sheet and hopefully just slide it straight off the trailer onto the bench.
I'm a little worried re the burning timber now ... I had assumed that if it wouldn't catch fire since there's no way for oxygen to get to it - and I'm not welding directly to the top.
I think I'll get some prices tomorrow and see what I can afford.
Just a side thought ... any opinions on a coating for black steel to stop it rusting? Then I could use my welding magnets to hold work together AND to the bench.
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20th May 2012, 07:16 PM #9
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20th May 2012, 07:33 PM #10Most Valued Member
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20th May 2012, 11:15 PM #11I break stuff...
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If you're concerned about burning the wood underneath, stainless is definitely the one to go for - it has very low thermal conductivity. Aluminium, especially in that thickness, will put the heat straight through into the wood....
Some stainless is magnetic, whether any of the sheet forms are I don't know....
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21st May 2012, 07:47 AM #12Most Valued Member
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The only other thing that worries me about heat and sheetmetal is the way it stretches when heated. It will shrink back a little bit but unless you quench it immediately it wont shrink back all the way and then the top won't remain flat. I never put heat anywhere near my bench top for that reason.
Phil
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21st May 2012, 08:14 AM #13Philomath in training
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Trouble is, because stainless has a low conductivity coefficient, the heat stays in one spot and the issue that Phil was talking about becomes more noticeable. Al will conduct the heat away more readily so should not buckle as much.
If you are determined to do this, perhaps a piece of cement sheet under the metal will help, although it will get brittle over time. Personally I still think you are better with a solid metal top - at least for the area you are welding. For me it's the uncertainty of the amount of heat put into the substrate and what it has done there that is the nasty part.
To illustrate the problem, I occasionally use scraps of wood to position steel prior to welding. Having something on the other side of some 3mm angle and welding that is enough to set it on fire. That is, if you had an angle frame flat on your bench top and welded the corners together, there is a good chance of burning on the other side of the bench top. (After use, the scraps are put in a small pile in the middle of a concrete floor and if they have not caught fire after 30 minutes are deemed safe to put in the bin etc). Lack of oxygen doesn't matter as that's how charcoal is made.
Simon probably has a few "people who set their sheds on fire from welding" stories he could share (he's on holidays at the moment)
Michael
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21st May 2012, 05:36 PM #14Novice
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I have a 6m bench in my shed where the bench top is yellow tongue. Down one end it has a 5mm masonite top on it that is replaced probably every 18 months and the other end is my welding/oil/grease end. This has a 5mm aluminium top on top of the yellow tongue. I went with aluminium because any welding splatter etc does not stick to it, the aluminium is softer than steel so there is less chance of damaging stuff and when it does get a bit gouged/scratched i just put some course emery paper in an old random orbital sander and give it a quick going over.
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21st May 2012, 06:13 PM #15Most Valued Member
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G/day all,
My welding bench top was made out of off cuts of 40 mm SHS,
the reason for this is that they are spaced 25mm apart and you can clamp your work anywhere through the bench, you can position your joins in the space and dont have to worry about welding the to the bench (especially now that I'm blind as a bat and I mostly just guess where I'm welding), also when arc welding most of the slag falls straight through, and the bench is fairly light weight and strong.
If I want to use it as a work bench I put old cupboard doors on it so things don"t fall through.
john
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