Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 4 of 4
-
14th Apr 2012, 02:50 PM #1
More on lube and anti corrosion /reclaimation
Hi everyone,
Rather than hijack the existing oil/lube corrosion thread I would like to present one just a bit different to add to the general discussion regarding the spray/ / lubrication /corrosion protection of workshop tools . For what its worth, its my personal solution of what works best overall for yours truly here in local Mackay, rust capital of Rustralia. For many of us its our proximity to coastal areas that presents the majority of the problems
If you are any thing like me you will have in your shed or tried in the past , a large array of expensive sprays lubes and oils all claimed by their makers to do unbelievable things in lubing of equipment and tools and preventing rust or even un - seizing tools when they are thought almost a hopeless case.
I say unbelievable post purchase of these products and after finding out the hard way.
Seemingly all the good stuff, Boesheild and Kroil , etc. ,all touted as good gear by the many contributors to various engineering, lathe, metal hobbiest web sites are inconveniently located on the other the side of the globe.
To this end, I thought I would start a thread to show you’re the results of the brew I am using to achieve cost efficient results.
It is of course, the brew that I found while researching muzzle loading rifle lubes
The original concoction was Eds Red.
- 1/3 ATF III
- 1/3 mineral spirits (Varsol )
- 1/3 Kerosene (Deodorized K1)
- I leave out the Lanolin and Acetone
Also the mix does work well with the addition of the lanolin and petroleum jelly to it .
The trick is to warm the lanolin in a shallow dish and add the petroleum jelly - about a tablespoon to say 2 cups of lanoline-(anhydrous lanoline which I found at the chemist one day.
Always being the one to experiment, I have tried additions such as oil of wintergreen.
It is the mix of Auto transmission oil, acetone, and oil of Wintergreen (Methyl salicylate) Those of you that were slot car racers will recall rubbing oil of wintergreen on the tires for extra grip. There was plenty of evidence from the net supporting its value as a penetrant on the net, that warranted me trialing it.
The mix I used was as above with the addition of lanoline and oil of wintergreen
¼ Auto trans oil
¼ (Varsol)I used shellite
¼ Aceteone
¼ Lanolin ,Oil of wintergreen/petroleum jelly mix –as above
Disclaimer: I am not responsible to what happens to those who don't exercise due caution in keeping the acetone & shellite out of the heat areas until the mix is cold.
One of the things I noted after using the mix was that it placed a coating on the surfaces of items treated with the mix. It dries with a varnish like coating that remains and things that will have normally rusted badly in my lean to garage (ventilated by off the ocean breezes some 300 days per year) some six months after application did not rust.
To support my story here are some pics
1. A ratchet fitting fished out of the acidic muck after the 2008 floods- its been coated with the brew for several months
2. A Floating nut from the school project vise -coated with the brew and left in the rain for a few days after seeing the first lube post.
3. A pair of pliers from the recycle center that I will treat and bring back to function and show some afters pictures- after I get a round to it.
Grahame
-
15th Apr 2012, 09:46 PM #2
Evening all.
A follow up for you guys with the pliers from the recyclers.
Pic 1 is the stuff in the an Inox spray bottles.The cheapies have a poor quality plastic and last 2 minutes as the acetone buggers them.
Pic 2 is the pliers sprayed with the mixture'
Pic 3 is the pliers buffed up with the wire brush.
another hit with the spray and they be ok for a couple of months.
Grahame
-
15th Apr 2012, 11:37 PM #3Diamond Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
- Location
- N.W.Tasmania
- Posts
- 1,407
Hi Grahame, interesting results with keeping rust at bay in your enviorenment, but I have some questions. Do the Inox bottles last, or are they some of the cheapies?
what was the idea in using your mixture on the old pincers, before buffing with a wire brush? was it just to free the joint, or was it part of the rust removal plan? It would seem that the wire brush would do that job with or without any chemical assistance.
I have read where modern forms of ATF will not go into solution with acetone, - was that your experience also, and if so what dissolved the ATF?
Are the methyl Sal, kero and acetone just carriers, or do they serve another purpose?
While I don't speak with experience, it should be said that those handling Oil of Wintergreen, need to take care not to get it on their hands, or if they do, make sure it is all washed off, - no smell noticable, before touching their more sensitive anatomical parts. Failure to observe this rule will likely cause you considerable discomfort.
Rob
-
16th Apr 2012, 12:07 AM #4
It was something I was playing around with.I noticed the mix softens the rust and penetrates.
It was just a progression to the powered wire buff and I noticed after a day or two the tools /items dried with a varnish type finish and stayed that way far in excess of the commercial sprays.
I have not recorded any length of time and just guessing at them really.
I think the acetone evaporates after a time but never had a separation issues with it.
I spouse diesel or kero would do as good and cheaper.
Would only be guessing about the acetone but can state the methyl sal works.
I have a rack of pliers and tin snips and vice grips and give all a spray every now and then most come from second or third hand sources
The Inoz bottle ( valve really) is the only one I have found that survives the brew .I reckon its the acetone that gives it a hammering -12 months or so - no probs yet.
Im an old slot car racer and no about methyl sal or Oil of wintergreen -same stuff was the lineament at footy by the strapper. Yep! I know where not to scratch.
As a penetrant It has a good rap -seems the US Navy used it to loosen fasteners -so must be something to it.It seemed reasonable to put it in the brew as well as the lanolin- You can get it from some chemists -as Anhydrous Lanolin - its a fatty creme sort of .Melt it in using a heated dish in simmering water. Put acetone and methyl sal in when all is cool.
Similar Threads
-
Lube points....but not sure
By morrisman in forum METALWORK GENERALReplies: 16Last Post: 21st Sep 2011, 02:29 PM