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  1. #511
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    Hi Heph
    welcome to the forum. I have used 'chop saws' for years and like Gavin have never had a problem.
    Do you have any pics of the saw, especially the flanges that hold the disc on.

    Phil

  2. #512
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    Mar 2016
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gavin Newman View Post
    FWIW I've used Hitachi 14" chop saws for as long as I can remember and never had a problem with accuracy. It might help that my main saw is built into a steel frame work so that I can just feed stock in and it's guaranteed to be straight and true with respect to the base but I also have a couple that I take out to jobs and they've always cut true.
    Hi Gavin,
    This kind of thing?
    https://www.masters.com.au/product/1...-saw-cc14sf-6w


    Any chance of a photo of your steel frame? And if you can, a measurement of the flange (Thanks Phil!) that holds the disc in?

    Because after a couple of attempts with mine, I wouldnt have a problem with its accuracy if it was being used to cut reinforcing rod for concrete footings and "within a centimetre or two" was ok.

    Cheers!

  3. #513
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steamwhisperer View Post
    Hi Heph
    welcome to the forum. I have used 'chop saws' for years and like Gavin have never had a problem.
    Do you have any pics of the saw, especially the flanges that hold the disc on.

    Phil
    Hi Phil,
    Thank you.
    It is entirely possible that "used 'chop saws' for years" is the answer.
    I will confess that my opinion was formed over entire *minutes*, and my previous experience was more than 20 years ago with a machine like this:
    Haberle H450 Metal Cutting Cold Saw Demo Video that simply shrugged off the care and attention of high school students.

    Here are a few photos of the chop saw:
    Chop_01.jpgChop_02.jpgChop_03.jpgChop_04.jpg

    Can anything relatively simple be done to make it more accurate?
    Or, is this a better way to go? : https://sydneytools.com.au/dewalt-dw...chop-saw-blade

    Cheers,

    Daniel.

  4. #514
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hephaestus View Post
    Hi Gavin,
    This kind of thing?
    https://www.masters.com.au/product/1...-saw-cc14sf-6w


    Any chance of a photo of your steel frame? And if you can, a measurement of the flange (Thanks Phil!) that holds the disc in?

    Because after a couple of attempts with mine, I wouldnt have a problem with its accuracy if it was being used to cut reinforcing rod for concrete footings and "within a centimetre or two" was ok.

    Cheers!
    Yep, that's the one. I've had a couple of generations of them over the years. Currently I have 3, one in the frame in the workshop, one that goes out on the road and one reserved for stainless steel work. I'll get some photos of the frame tonight and post them up.

    The main thing when using them stand-alone is to make sure they are on a firm, flat surface and to let the saw find it's own way through the metal. The trick to getting the blade cost under control is to buy in bulk and from a reputable tool store, not one of the Bunnings/Masters type stores. I buy 25 at a a time from a place I've dealt with for the last 40+ years and so the prices are very reasonable.

  5. #515
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gavin Newman View Post
    Yep, that's the one. I've had a couple of generations of them over the years. Currently I have 3, one in the frame in the workshop, one that goes out on the road and one reserved for stainless steel work. I'll get some photos of the frame tonight and post them up.

    The main thing when using them stand-alone is to make sure they are on a firm, flat surface and to let the saw find it's own way through the metal. The trick to getting the blade cost under control is to buy in bulk and from a reputable tool store, not one of the Bunnings/Masters type stores. I buy 25 at a a time from a place I've dealt with for the last 40+ years and so the prices are very reasonable.
    Hmm. This is out by 5mm over 35mm.
    However the blade is square.



    I'll move it off my bunnings folding wobble bench and try again on the slab underneath.

    Cheers.

    Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk

  6. #516
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hephaestus View Post
    Hmm. This is out by 5mm over 35mm.
    However the blade is square.
    I know the cut is not square to the tube, but is the cut edge straight? If its blade flex, the cut will generally curve a bit from memory.

    Also, in the photo you took of the pivot, is that a crack on the left hand side (where the casting narrows as it goes up to the saw body) or just casting flash? Can't quite make it out...

    Is there any play in the pivot? If there is, the blade may be square when not loaded, but once being supported by the steel its cutting, may lift up on one side, resulting in an angled cut. Would be a lot of play though, for that much angle....

    Just some thoughts...

    *Edit* few more - is the blade still square if you lift the head up say two inchs? I wonder if the pivot is machined off axis somehow...

    And the pressed flanges could be a recipe for blade runout, check for square and then rotate the blade by hand a bit, and recheck - do that in a few places.

    And one more - clamp a piece of RHS in the vice, and check the blade for square against that, if you've been checking against the base - maybe the base is a bit higher on one side?

  7. #517
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    Also, in the photo you took of the pivot, is that a crack on the left hand side (where the casting narrows as it goes up to the saw body) or just casting flash? Can't quite make it out...
    J&H I think you'll find that the mark is actually where the depth stop bolt hits as it comes down.

    Is it possible to put up a photo/s of how you had it set up, as it looks to me that the saws vise isn't square to the blade, as the vertical section of the cut appears square, while the front and rear of the cut is out. Don't take any notice of the indicator marks on the vise back, they are only there as a ROUGH guide.
    Kryn
    Last edited by KBs PensNmore; 17th Mar 2016 at 07:35 PM. Reason: Spelling
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  8. #518
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    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    Is it possible to put up a photo/s of how you had it set up, as it looks to me that the saws vise isn't square to the blade, as the vertical section of the cut appears square, while the front and rear of the cut is out. Don't take any notice of the indicator marks on the vise back, they are only there as a ROUGH guide.
    Kryn
    I would have thought the burr in the second photo would be the bottom of the cut? Could be wrong though....

  9. #519
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    You are correct, what threw me was that the measurements are on opposite corners.
    The only thing I can come up with is that one end is raised to give it the problem. Have you tried to cut thinner RHS, something like 1.6mm, without forcing the blade through.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  10. #520
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hephaestus View Post
    Hi Gavin,
    ....
    Any chance of a photo of your steel frame? And if you can, a measurement of the flange (Thanks Phil!) that holds the disc in?
    ....

    Cheers!
    As requested, this is the saw in the frame. There's a 6 foot lead-in on the left of the blade to ensure the stock comes in square and level. I made this at least 30 years ago and it gets used constantly. There's also a photo of a cut in 2" x 1" RHS cut as it came off the saw.

    20160317_184057_resized_1.jpg20160317_183856_resized_1.jpg20160317_183509_resized_1.jpg20160317_183537_resized_1.jpg

  11. #521
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    I have one of the cheap Box store ones and the pivot points at the base were out of square by almost 5 degrees ,.
    The cure was to remove the so called pressed bushes and machine two stronger ones from solid bar , fit them and now each cut is square as possible with a chop saw.

    Michael

  12. #522
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jekyll and Hyde View Post
    I know the cut is not square to the tube, but is the cut edge straight? If its blade flex, the cut will generally curve a bit from memory.

    Also, in the photo you took of the pivot, is that a crack on the left hand side (where the casting narrows as it goes up to the saw body) or just casting flash? Can't quite make it out...

    Is there any play in the pivot? If there is, the blade may be square when not loaded, but once being supported by the steel its cutting, may lift up on one side, resulting in an angled cut. Would be a lot of play though, for that much angle....

    Just some thoughts...

    *Edit* few more - is the blade still square if you lift the head up say two inchs? I wonder if the pivot is machined off axis somehow...

    And the pressed flanges could be a recipe for blade runout, check for square and then rotate the blade by hand a bit, and recheck - do that in a few places.

    And one more - clamp a piece of RHS in the vice, and check the blade for square against that, if you've been checking against the base - maybe the base is a bit higher on one side?
    Thanks, J&H,
    It appears to be casting flash, not a crack.
    There's no play in the pivot, it's remarkably solid, considering.

    So, I went medieval on it:
    Chop_05.jpgChop_06.jpgChop_07.jpg


    Which made things a lot better:

    Chop_08.jpgChop_09.jpgChop_10.jpg

    In any case, it has been educational.


  13. #523
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gavin Newman View Post
    As requested, this is the saw in the frame. There's a 6 foot lead-in on the left of the blade to ensure the stock comes in square and level. I made this at least 30 years ago and it gets used constantly. There's also a photo of a cut in 2" x 1" RHS cut as it came off the saw.

    20160317_183537_resized_1.jpg

    sweep your floor Gavin is a OHWS requirement....

  14. #524
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    worth checking to make sure the clamp isn't lifting/shifting when you tighten it up?

  15. #525
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    How hard are you pressing down on the handle when cutting? You need to let the saw dictate the cutting rate. The tendency when cutting down the vertical walls of the RHS can be to rush that part of the cut because there is less resistance and this can cause the cutting disc to wander, it might be worth experimenting with that as well.

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