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Thread: What did you learn today?
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16th Mar 2016, 09:11 PM #511Most Valued Member
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Hi Heph
welcome to the forum. I have used 'chop saws' for years and like Gavin have never had a problem.
Do you have any pics of the saw, especially the flanges that hold the disc on.
Phil
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17th Mar 2016, 07:49 AM #512New Member
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Hi Gavin,
This kind of thing?
https://www.masters.com.au/product/1...-saw-cc14sf-6w
Any chance of a photo of your steel frame? And if you can, a measurement of the flange (Thanks Phil!) that holds the disc in?
Because after a couple of attempts with mine, I wouldnt have a problem with its accuracy if it was being used to cut reinforcing rod for concrete footings and "within a centimetre or two" was ok.
Cheers!
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17th Mar 2016, 08:40 AM #513New Member
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Hi Phil,
Thank you.
It is entirely possible that "used 'chop saws' for years" is the answer.
I will confess that my opinion was formed over entire *minutes*, and my previous experience was more than 20 years ago with a machine like this:
Haberle H450 Metal Cutting Cold Saw Demo Video that simply shrugged off the care and attention of high school students.
Here are a few photos of the chop saw:
Chop_01.jpgChop_02.jpgChop_03.jpgChop_04.jpg
Can anything relatively simple be done to make it more accurate?
Or, is this a better way to go? : https://sydneytools.com.au/dewalt-dw...chop-saw-blade
Cheers,
Daniel.
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17th Mar 2016, 10:43 AM #514
Yep, that's the one. I've had a couple of generations of them over the years. Currently I have 3, one in the frame in the workshop, one that goes out on the road and one reserved for stainless steel work. I'll get some photos of the frame tonight and post them up.
The main thing when using them stand-alone is to make sure they are on a firm, flat surface and to let the saw find it's own way through the metal. The trick to getting the blade cost under control is to buy in bulk and from a reputable tool store, not one of the Bunnings/Masters type stores. I buy 25 at a a time from a place I've dealt with for the last 40+ years and so the prices are very reasonable.
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17th Mar 2016, 10:57 AM #515New Member
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17th Mar 2016, 07:33 PM #516I break stuff...
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I know the cut is not square to the tube, but is the cut edge straight? If its blade flex, the cut will generally curve a bit from memory.
Also, in the photo you took of the pivot, is that a crack on the left hand side (where the casting narrows as it goes up to the saw body) or just casting flash? Can't quite make it out...
Is there any play in the pivot? If there is, the blade may be square when not loaded, but once being supported by the steel its cutting, may lift up on one side, resulting in an angled cut. Would be a lot of play though, for that much angle....
Just some thoughts...
*Edit* few more - is the blade still square if you lift the head up say two inchs? I wonder if the pivot is machined off axis somehow...
And the pressed flanges could be a recipe for blade runout, check for square and then rotate the blade by hand a bit, and recheck - do that in a few places.
And one more - clamp a piece of RHS in the vice, and check the blade for square against that, if you've been checking against the base - maybe the base is a bit higher on one side?
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17th Mar 2016, 07:34 PM #517Most Valued Member
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Also, in the photo you took of the pivot, is that a crack on the left hand side (where the casting narrows as it goes up to the saw body) or just casting flash? Can't quite make it out...
J&H I think you'll find that the mark is actually where the depth stop bolt hits as it comes down.
Is it possible to put up a photo/s of how you had it set up, as it looks to me that the saws vise isn't square to the blade, as the vertical section of the cut appears square, while the front and rear of the cut is out. Don't take any notice of the indicator marks on the vise back, they are only there as a ROUGH guide.
KrynLast edited by KBs PensNmore; 17th Mar 2016 at 07:35 PM. Reason: Spelling
To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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17th Mar 2016, 07:43 PM #518I break stuff...
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17th Mar 2016, 07:58 PM #519Most Valued Member
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You are correct, what threw me was that the measurements are on opposite corners.
The only thing I can come up with is that one end is raised to give it the problem. Have you tried to cut thinner RHS, something like 1.6mm, without forcing the blade through.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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17th Mar 2016, 08:55 PM #520
As requested, this is the saw in the frame. There's a 6 foot lead-in on the left of the blade to ensure the stock comes in square and level. I made this at least 30 years ago and it gets used constantly. There's also a photo of a cut in 2" x 1" RHS cut as it came off the saw.
20160317_184057_resized_1.jpg20160317_183856_resized_1.jpg20160317_183509_resized_1.jpg20160317_183537_resized_1.jpg
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17th Mar 2016, 09:46 PM #521
I have one of the cheap Box store ones and the pivot points at the base were out of square by almost 5 degrees ,.
The cure was to remove the so called pressed bushes and machine two stronger ones from solid bar , fit them and now each cut is square as possible with a chop saw.
Michael
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18th Mar 2016, 09:42 AM #522New Member
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Thanks, J&H,
It appears to be casting flash, not a crack.
There's no play in the pivot, it's remarkably solid, considering.
So, I went medieval on it:
Chop_05.jpgChop_06.jpgChop_07.jpg
Which made things a lot better:
Chop_08.jpgChop_09.jpgChop_10.jpg
In any case, it has been educational.
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18th Mar 2016, 12:01 PM #523Most Valued Member
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18th Mar 2016, 12:06 PM #524Most Valued Member
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worth checking to make sure the clamp isn't lifting/shifting when you tighten it up?
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18th Mar 2016, 12:14 PM #525
How hard are you pressing down on the handle when cutting? You need to let the saw dictate the cutting rate. The tendency when cutting down the vertical walls of the RHS can be to rush that part of the cut because there is less resistance and this can cause the cutting disc to wander, it might be worth experimenting with that as well.