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  1. #766
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by shedhappens View Post
    G/day Ralph, do you have to spin the knob a zillion times to adjust the speed?
    If you work out how fix the problem let me know please, I have the same prob and did the same as you.
    I have been through the book to no avail.

    cheers, shed
    If its like the PI9130 it should be speed sensitive. If you turn it slowly it will change speed slowly BUT if you turn it a bit faster it should speed up significantly - much faster the nets rate at which you are spinning it - a very nice feature once you get the hang of it.

  2. #767
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Something I learned yesterday - when weighing a magnet on a set of digital scales watch out.

    The scales showed the mass of a button size magnet to be ~3.5g, whereas an almost the same dimensioned counterweight made of mild steel was ~1g

    Hang on I thought - I know that these REE magnets do contain some exotic elements but even so that would make the density of the magnet about 27g/cc which is way more than the densest known material on earth.
    It did not take long to determine that the magnet really disturbs the scales.
    To get around this I distanced the magnet from the balance by placing a plastic 35mm film canister in between the magnet and the scales sure enough the weight of the magnet went down to ~1g.

  3. #768
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    Hi Bob, yes it used to operate like that but has not for sometime, l dont know if there is a fault because of my fiddlings or a fault in the panel.
    I have emailed Powtran twice seeking an answer and both times they failed to reply, nothing, l guess they chose to just ignore me.
    cheers, shed

  4. #769
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by shedhappens View Post
    Hi Bob, yes it used to operate like that but has not for sometime, l dont know if there is a fault because of my fiddlings or a fault in the panel.
    I have emailed Powtran twice seeking an answer and both times they failed to reply, nothing, l guess they chose to just ignore me.
    cheers, shed
    I know it's a PITA but a factory reset might be in order?

  5. #770
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    Today I learned how effectively the self tightening capability of a keyless chuck can function.
    I needed to cut a 95mm hole in some 1.2mm steel sheet using a hole-saw and opted to use the mill so I could run it at a nice slow speed.
    The saw, mounted on a standard Sutton-Gamaflex arbour, was loaded into a 16mm keyless chuck and run at 90 RPM.
    The steel was firmly clamped down on top of a piece of 19mm ply to protect the table with some Tap-Magic added for lube.

    The cutting proceeded fairly smoothly with a bit of vibration but no more than usually encountered with large hole-saws. The excitement came just as the saw started to break through when all of a sudden the arbour shank appeared to shear off where it entered the chuck, bugger.

    I was a bit confused as to why this had happened because at no point did the saw stall but the penny started to drop when I went to remove the shank from the chuck which was so tight I had to use a strap wrench to loosen it. A hand full of shrapnel was all that remained of the hollow shank which had been completely crushed by the chuck.

    The result:
    Gamaflex 01.jpg

    Gamaflex 02.jpg

    The culprit:
    Wohlhaupter Chuck 01.jpg

    The last time I used a holesaw in the mill it was in a keyed chuck and everything worked fine so I can only assume it was the high torque on the saw that drove the keyless chuck to keep tightening until the hollow arbour collapsed, lesson learned, don't use a hollow shank tool in a keyless chuck for high torque operations.
    Cheers,
    Greg.

  6. #771
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    Go on tell the truth, you don't know your own strength.
    If you need to do similar again, try slipping a broken drill bit in there to prevent crushing it.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  7. #772
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    Default Holesaw arbour failure

    Hello Kwijibo99.
    I sell a lot of hole saws and arbours to industry and 1 customer in particular who makes fire pipe installations. This has gone on for years. We use the local brand and 1 import. The BA3 arbours fail regularly on saws above 44mm and even the 16mm shank arbour does the same. Another problem is the locking ring backing itself out of engagement.
    They are not what they used to be.
    regards
    BC

  8. #773
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    Thanks for the info BC, the arbour is one I've had for a long time, it's done a lot of work with no problems and must be thirty years old. I don't think this was an issue of the arbour quality as such, just an unfortunate combination where both tools functioned as designed.
    The hexagonal shank on the arbour prevented it from slipping and the chuck responded to the high torque load by continuing to tighten. The arbour shank is hollow to allow for different length pilot drills, it probably doesn't need to be hollow all the way through but it is what it is.
    I'll buy a new one but will have a crack at repairing the broken arbour using a solid shank just to see if I can.
    Cheers,
    Greg.

  9. #774
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    Í needed the hole-saw today so I figured I'd have a crack at a repair.
    Machined the broken stub smooth and made up a replacement shank from 16mm 1045. A 0.250" shoulder was machined on the new stub to help with alignment and it was pressed in before welding.
    Gamaflex 04.jpg Gamaflex 05.jpg

    Run a quick circle of weld then machine back and mill on some flats.
    Gamaflex 06.jpg Gamaflex 07.jpg

    I mistakenly machined the shoulder a bit closer to the weld than I would have liked. It drilled a half dozen 36mm holes with no problems so happy enough with that but running it with a larger saw will be the real test I guess.
    Cheers,
    Greg.

  10. #775
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    I learnt NOT to trust tapping/drillimg charts NO matter how good t he company is What did you learn today?What did you learn today?What did you learn today?What did you learn today?

  11. #776
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    Not today, but I learnt to ALWAYS put the decimal point in CNC programs, even after whole numbers. Rapid to X50. means 50mm, rapid to X50 means 50 microns and a crash

  12. #777
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    Quote Originally Posted by wheelinround View Post
    I learnt NOT to trust tapping/drillimg charts NO matter how good t he company is What did you learn today?What did you learn today?What did you learn today?What did you learn today?
    Not sure what happened, but I got the text, but no images. What happened?

  13. #778
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    Quote Originally Posted by wheelinround View Post
    I learnt NOT to trust tapping/drillimg charts NO matter how good t he company is What did you learn today?What did you learn today?What did you learn today?What did you learn today?
    Probably a misprint??
    Many moons ago when I went to school, we were given a maths problem to solve, I handed in the paper, it came back with a cross, did it again with the same answer. Eventually had to take it home and do it, my sister tried and got the same answer, as did my Mother. She ended up writing a scathing letter to the teacher, I turns out that the teacher looked in the back of the book and crossed everyone's maths.
    I got really disillusioned by the school system then and left not long after that.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  14. #779
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ropetangler View Post
    Not sure what happened, but I got the text, but no images. What happened?
    Using the Suttons chart which states to drill 8.5mm to tap a M10 thread after 1/4 way checked another source which gives 11/32 of course this means less effort to do the tapping. Not Armstrong almost tap breaking method. Got through it though, re-drilled remaing 3 to 11/32 big difference.

    Edited No images RT just emoji

  15. #780
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    That just sounds like the standard "drill size = major diameter - pitch" rule. 11/32 would mean very slightly less thread engagement, but not enough to make much difference in the real world

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