Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Results 1 to 12 of 12
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Sydney 2074
    Age
    67
    Posts
    104

    Default Removing chuck from drill press

    Hi,
    I'm fixing an old drill press (Richardson E39) and am trying to get the chuck off the spindle. Can anybody definitely tell me whether it has a taper mount or a screw mount ? The chuck is a Jacobs Model 34.

    I've even drilled a hole in the back of the chuck and tried to tap the spindle out. Before I try heat or more force I'd like to be sure it is a taper mount.

    Thanks,
    -- Steven Saunderson

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    N.W.Tasmania
    Posts
    1,407

    Default

    Hi Steven, I am not familiar with your drill, or for that matter the chuck fitted to it either, but I feel pretty confident that that Jacobs chuck is available as a screwed fitting and with a tapered fitting also. I take it that the quill is not made with a slot where a narrow wedge can be inserted to force a Morse tapered arbor from the quill. In other words the spindle is not fitted with a MT socket for an arbor which holds the chuck is it? If you are unsure, wind the feed of the quill down a bit and any slot will come into view. If it does have one, you may have to rotate the spindle up to 1/4 of a turn to line the tang of the arbor up so the wedge can move it out when persuaded with a hammer.
    If on the other hand, your spindle is not fitted with a female MT socket, it will be fitted with a male jacobs taper or a screwed spigot (probably around 3/8 UNF). In the latter case it is common for it to be drilled in the centre and tapped for a locking screw, around 1/8 or 3/16 with a left hand thread. You will need to open the chuck fully, and if this is the case, you will see the head of the screw at the bottom level of the jaws. I suspect that they could still have this locking screw even if the spindle has a JT chuck fitting as well.
    So open the chuck jaws fully and see what lies in there. If it has the screw, remove it bearing in mind that it is most likely left hand threaded. Once removed see if you can unscrew the chuck from the spindle, usually r.h.thread AFAIK. If no joy with unscrewing, then it is likely fitted to a male jacob taper on the end of the spindle, and to remove it you need a special set of wedges, which are used in an opposed fashion, between the back of the chuck, and the base of the spindle. The wedges are commercially available, but you could make a set yourself with a basic workshop setup. They are like a set of fox wedges, with a central slot which fits around the Jacobs taper, and allows you to apply pressure between the back of the chuck and the end of the spindle, without any bending forces being applied to the jacobs taper.
    I have just looked up model 34 Jacobs chucks, and it seems that they only come with either JT2, JT6 or JT33 tapers, depending on whether you have a 34-02, 34-06 or a 34-33 chuck. For the model 34, there does not seem to be the option of a screwed fitting.
    I hope this helps,
    Rob.
    Last edited by Ropetangler; 18th Mar 2012 at 11:39 PM. Reason: Fix spelling, - edge to wedge

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    112

    Default

    Hello Steven,

    The chuck is mounted on a Jacobs taper. There should be a narrow hex nut on the spindle above the chuck which is for chuck removal. Simply screw the nut down onto the chuck and voila!

    Chas.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Sydney 2074
    Age
    67
    Posts
    104

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Chas View Post
    The chuck is mounted on a Jacobs taper. There should be a narrow hex nut on the spindle above the chuck which is for chuck removal. Simply screw the nut down onto the chuck and voila!
    Thanks for your reply and thanks to Rob for his detailed reply. Yes, there is a round nut (with holes for a C-spanner) above the chuck. But if I tighten it down onto the chuck as hard as I can (large set of stilsens) the chuck still doesn't budge.

    I've drilled an 8mm hole in the back of the chuck so I can try to tap the spindle off. This also didn't work so I've poured Penetrene and oil down the hole and will try again tomorrow. My only other idea is to heat the chuck with a propane torch. I'll tighten the nut onto the chuck first so it will provide a bit of extra force.

    This is an old drill press and was pretty rusty when I got it. The spindle is now out of the quill and it needs a new ball race. The chuck has a slight wobble and I'm hoping the spindle isn't bent.

    Thanks for your help here. It has given me the confidence to continue with my gentle persuasion.

    Cheers,
    -- Steven Saunderson

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Port Sephens NSW Southside
    Posts
    123

    Default

    Phelum

    I have a Stering drill press, it has a Jacobs No34 on a JT6 taper. Check to make sure there is no screw inside the chuck. I put a U shaped spacer between the nut & chuck for better pressure transfer as the nut was down to the bottom of the thread.
    It also had a wobble, fixed this by removing the light score on the taper.

    Check these 2 links.

    http://www.woodworkforums.com/f155/r...emoval-127160/
    http://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/ri...-press-148858/

    JohnQ

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Minbun, FNQ, Australia
    Age
    66
    Posts
    2,012

    Default

    Put the chuck key in the side of the chuck & give it a thump witha rubber mallet or a bit of wood.
    Cliff.
    ...if all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Age
    71
    Posts
    6,458

    Default

    In this thread there are some Jacobs 1969 catalogue scans. -

    http://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/jt...-chuck-133761/

    As Rob states for the standard 34, but a 34B is threaded. My Tough drill has a direct mount English made 34. The chuck wobbled when I bought the drill. As purchased, the nose was galled. I remachined the spindle nose like John. The chuck now runs with minimal run out.

    BT

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    N.W.Tasmania
    Posts
    1,407

    Default

    Here is a post from another discussion on this forum and BT (good evening Bob) who has just posted before me, shows using wedges which he made to remove a chuck. I think that you would have more chance of a successful outcome if the chuck is frozen onto its taper, than by using a small and thin nut to force it down. You won't have to worry about rounding it off or stripping it anyway, and the opposing wedges will give a straight push onto the back of the chuck, if it is on a Jacobs taper. As Bob has mentioned, there is still the chance of it being threaded, but the chuck part number will tell the story as to what fixing arrangement it has. Don't forget to check by looking down inside the open chuck, for any possible locking screw before trying to force it.
    Apologies if the answer is too detailed but I have no idea of your background or mechanical experience, and I'm trying to cover all bases, - you have come to the right place though, as there is lots of friendly and experienced help here.
    Rob
    http://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/chuck-wedge-147801/

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Age
    71
    Posts
    6,458

    Default

    Good Evening to you Rob.

    Wedges can be purchased on Ebay but not for the bitty No O taper I encountered on that Albrecht. Still, if wedges could be used to remove Phelum's 34, it wouldn't be hard to knock something up.

    Bob.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Sydney 2074
    Age
    67
    Posts
    104

    Default

    Hi,

    Thanks to all who have replied here. The links to relevant posts are much appreciated. The chuck is the model 34 shown in the scan of the old catalogue page.

    This morning I tightened the ring nut against the chuck and used oil and heat and gentle persuasion. After three attempts the chuck came free. Now I'll check the spindle for run-out and try to hide some of the damage I've done.

    Judging by the distorted holes in the ring nut, someone has tried awfully hard to remove the chuck. Judging by the rust on the taper I'd say they didn't succeed.

    Thanks again,
    -- Steven Saunderson

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Charlestown NSW
    Age
    65
    Posts
    1,669

    Default

    I've always had success getting these chucks of by opening the chuck so the jaws are up inside the chuck body, screw the release nut down as tight as you can get it with out wrecking it, then using a bit of hardwood and a decent hammer giving the front of the chuck a decent whack with the hammer (holding the hardwood, endgrain on to the chuck and hitting the wood)
    The release nut puts a bit of pressure on the taper and the hit from the hammer is usually enough to make the taper release.
    bollie7

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Sydney 2074
    Age
    67
    Posts
    104

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bollie7 View Post
    The release nut puts a bit of pressure on the taper and the hit from the hammer is usually enough to make the taper release.
    I should have tried this. The spindle was out of the press and I was worried about bending it. Pressure via the release nut certainly did help. Better than having to make a set of wedges.

    One mistake I made was to drill a hole in the back of the chuck so I could tap the spindle out. Bashing the end of the spindle doesn't do the centre hole any good. Luckily the hole was okay under the surface and I could use a centre drill to clean up the surface portion. I've checked the spindle in the lathe and it looks good. Phew.

    Cheers,
    -- Steven Saunderson

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •