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5th Sep 2011, 02:04 PM #1Novice
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- Jan 2006
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- Greystanes
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- 19
How to cut a rectangular hole in a gutter
I want to put an additional down pipe in my gutter
the gutter , unfortunately drains away from the current down pipe
How to I cut a rectangular hole in a gutter to fit a rectangular down pipe
I would like to make the hole so that leaves will not be obstructed from flowing
down the drain pipe , which will flow onto the grass
I also was thinking of just making a square hole and running a plastic chain to the ground . I could run a rectangular pipe , but as it goes to the grass the chain idea looked good ( saw some out in the bush)
ps did a search , but too many variablesLast edited by ratchet; 5th Sep 2011 at 02:05 PM. Reason: additional info
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5th Sep 2011, 02:10 PM #2Most Valued Member
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hi i would just use a angle grinder with a 1mm cut of wheel.
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5th Sep 2011, 02:13 PM #3Dave J Guest
When I worked as a builder, one guy wanted us to just mark the square out and cut diagonals with a grinder from corner to corner and then fold the flaps down and pop rivet the down pipe on, then run some sealastic (spelling) around it.
The way I do my own is to buy the down pipe flange from a hardware store and pop rivet that in after I cut the square with the grinder, I also add sealastic before fitting it.
The first one give a better flow for water in theory, but I find I don't have any trouble with the flange.
Dave
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5th Sep 2011, 03:41 PM #4Mechanical Butcher
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- Oct 2004
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- Southern Highlands NSW
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- 1,894
Small sharp cold chisel and a block of hardwood.
I mount the spout on the outside, under the gutter, to avoid water pooling. It's marginally less neat than putting in from the inside, but you don't notice it.
Jordan
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5th Sep 2011, 03:59 PM #5Dave J Guest
A old sharp wood chisel works better and distorts less, if you go that way.
Dave
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5th Sep 2011, 04:24 PM #6Junior Senior Member
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- Dec 2008
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- Adelaide, SA
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I traced a template of the square spout on my gutter, then drilled a lot of 4mm holes close together and it pretty much popped out. I couldn't get a grinder into my gutter due to space & I didn't think of cutting it from underneath
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5th Sep 2011, 04:42 PM #7
I did it the same way as Dave, get the correct downpipe flange from Bunnings to suit your plastic square downpipe and make the cut out to suit the flange, pop rivets and silastic to seal it. I used an angle grinder with a 1mm cutoff wheel from underneath, but make sure there's no water in the spouting first...
When you fit the plastic downpipe to the flange, Just put a couple of stainless screws either side so you can get at them easily to remove the downpipe for cleaning.
Regards
Ray
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5th Sep 2011, 04:53 PM #8Novice
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looks like the angle grinder is the way to go
thanks
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5th Sep 2011, 07:46 PM #9Shedaholic
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Last time I added a downpipe for the same reason, I did it with a nibbler - Nibbler - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia - air powered one for quick rough shaping then finished off with hand nibbler.
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6th Sep 2011, 12:56 AM #10New Member
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- Sep 2010
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- Adelaide
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Hi,
When I replaced our gutters, I marked out a rectangle the size if the downpipe on the bottom of the gutter.
Then drew a cross between the corners of the rectangle.
Then drilled a 8mm hole in the centre of the cross. Then used a jigsaw with a fine toothed metal cutting blade to cut from the centre hole to the four corners.
Then bend the four triangle shaped flaps 90 degrees with pliers to make 4 flaps that fit inside the downpipe.
With tin-snips cut off the points of the triangle flaps leaving about 25mm deep flaps. Fit the downpipe over the flaps, drill 1/8 inch holes through the downpipe and through the internal flaps for 1/8 inch pop rivets. (front and both sides, no need for a hole in the rear of the downpipe)
Before pop riveting, coat the inside of the downpipe and all 4 flaps with silicon sealant (neutral cure gutter/roofing silicon) to make a water proof joint.
Regards Steve.Last edited by steve-37; 6th Sep 2011 at 01:08 AM. Reason: grammer
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6th Sep 2011, 10:53 AM #11Intermediate Member
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- Dec 2010
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- Melbourne
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Nrb
If you have to do it while mounted to the facia a jig saw with small tooth metal blade as mentioned before is the way to go, trying to cut with a cold chisel up there becomes a bit hard to hold tight,if on the ground cutting with a cold chisel backed up with a block of wood cutting into end grain works well.
Good luck
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6th Sep 2011, 03:29 PM #12Intermediate Member
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- Narellan, NSW
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I'd use a plasma cutter, but if you had one of those on hand then you probably wouldn't be asking this question
I'd try drilling a decent sized hole in the middle then using aviation snips to cut diagonals to the corners before resorting to a jigsaw or grinder.
I must be getting old, suggesting using a hand tool over power tools
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6th Sep 2011, 08:20 PM #13I break stuff...
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