Thread: todays tools gloat

Yeah, I'm a binzel man. Can recommend. This score came at a good time as my new welder has a weird european made torch where the front end gear is horrendously expensive. Like 70 bucks for 2 contact tip holders expensive.
Binzel has plentiful parts (OEM or reproduction)
Can get copies cheap like others have said (most torches out there are actual copies of a binzel- they're that good!)
Plenty of consumable choice (MB24 MB36 can run M6 or M8 tips with the right contact tip adapter)- you can even get some cool exotic alloys for the long life heavy duty tips if needed.
You can get binzel tapered nozzles if needed, even longer swan necks if you get real keen (mainly on the bigger torches for structural work etc).

Like the Tweco's, the number of the torch x10 (eg MB15/24/36) is the amp rating of the torch for a 60% duty. So You can do a lot of welding at 360A from a MB36. But it's all got to do with the thermal mass of the swan neck and consumable pack in taking the welding heat away from the tip. When copper tips heat they anneal, go soft and wear fast... so all this comes at a weight cost unless you are going water cooled. Binzel 501 anybody?! 500A at 100% duty cycle really is giving her the beans!

Pretty sure you can also run the mb25 neck on the 24 which I prefer as the nozzles seem to centre better. Also it's easier to get the nozzle off. The MB24 nozzles seem to shrink once you get a bit of heat into them.

Can also get flexible necks for them which is handy in awkward places.

Originally Posted by Commander_Keen

(MB24 can run M6 or M8 tips with the right contact tip adapter)

Is that possible? I only thought you could do that with the mb36? You got a link to the M8 tip holder for the MB24?

My bad. you're right it's the MB36 that has both M6 and M8 sizes.
For the 36 binzel part 142.0005 and 142.0020

Originally Posted by Commander_Keen

When copper tips heat they anneal, go soft and wear fast... so all this comes at a weight cost unless you are going water cooled. Binzel 501 anybody?! 500A at 100% duty cycle really is giving her the beans!

Our blokes will go through a couple of tips a day, sometimes even more. I go and collect them after work and put them in a drum, got nearly 5 kgs worth. The gas diffusers are bought by the 100's, as the blokes tap the nozzles to get rid of the build up of berries inside, consequently the diffusers break being ceramic type material. Welding is done on Duragal steel, hence the excess berries.
Kryn

Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore

Our blokes will go through a couple of tips a day, sometimes even more. I go and collect them after work and put them in a drum, got nearly 5 kgs worth. The gas diffusers are bought by the 100's, as the blokes tap the nozzles to get rid of the build up of berries inside, consequently the diffusers break being ceramic type material. Welding is done on Duragal steel, hence the excess berries.
Kryn

Get a nozzle dip gel, and dip it every so often when the tip is hot. It stops the spatter sticking to your expensive consumables and increases life a lot.
Or better still- there is a ceramic nozzle spray made by (you guessed it) - Binzel.

As for guys using a torch as a hammer- no sympathy from me. Machinists don't square stock up in the lathe chuck with a few taps from a precision level, so why should a boily bang their torch around...

Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore

Nice score So you reckon the Binzel is a top torch? Thanks for the tip on the switch.
I run the Binzel myself and love it, nice and light, everyone here doesn't like it as it has the small nozzle, but for me I can get into nice tight places with it.
Kryn

I bought the Binzel style Mig guns from ebay for and am happy with them.

They where from Australia and where about $70 for the MB15 and $100 for the MB24 from memory and have worked great for the past 8-9 years. I also had to change over to euro type connector on my machine.

Originally someone had put a Tweco 4 on it rated at 350A for a 200a machine and I had to buy the thin nozel for it, there where 3 different sizes nozels available.

Originally Posted by Dave J

Originally someone had put a Tweco 4 on it rated at 350A for a 200a machine and I had to buy the thin nozel for it, there where 3 different sizes nozels available.

I had to replace the original torch on my transmig 250, I told the welding shop what I had and me not knowing any better, took what they sold me. A Tweco 4 torch. The torch will probably last forever, but it is as heavy as hell.

scored a second hand Hafco BS-7L - Metal Cutting Band Saw. $200

It supposedly needed a new nut for the vice but it was perfect, just clogged with poop . The plastic fluid tank had a damaged corner but 5 minutes that got welded up. Only thing it really needed was 8 new bearings on the blade guides, $7 for 10. It was very grubby, have half cleaned it in the above photo.
Me very happy
IMG_20200806_214919.jpg

Nice find. If you're planning on doing a lot of 45 and 90 degree cuts, make an angle guide instead of adjusting the stop all the time.
Have downloaded a couple of pics to help you. I also included a stop on mine, so that pieces were cut the same length each time.
DSCF0161.jpgDSCF0163.jpg
HTH
Kryn

that's probably a good idea, much faster to do a 45.

Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore

Nice find. If you're planning on doing a lot of 45 and 90 degree cuts, make an angle guide instead of adjusting the stop all the time.
Have downloaded a couple of pics to help you. I also included a stop on mine, so that pieces were cut the same length each time.
DSCF0161.jpgDSCF0163.jpg
HTH
Kryn

Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore

Nice find. If you're planning on doing a lot of 45 and 90 degree cuts, make an angle guide instead of adjusting the stop all the time.
Have downloaded a couple of pics to help you. I also included a stop on mine, so that pieces were cut the same length each time.
DSCF0161.jpgDSCF0163.jpg
HTH
Kryn

Very timely post Kryn, as I've just got my BS working and during the cleanup found that the fixed jaw has been tack welded to the saw frame.
The guy I bought it from said that they only used it for 90deg cuts as they used their Brobo for all the angle work as it was quicker to change. Wasn't expecting it to be welded permanently to 90deg though!
Anyway, I was thinking of doing exactly what you've posted. Is your guide attached to the fixed jaw at all, or just butts up against the stop at the blade end of the guide and held due to clamping pressure?

The other thing I'm planning to make is some extension jaws that just hook over the non-blade end of the vice jaws and finish almost at the blade to allow holding of short stock. The stock jaws are about 50mm away from the blade. Will still need a packer at the non-blade end to allow it to clamp, but much easier that faffing around finding suitable size bits of flat when you need them, and holding everything in place while you try and clamp it.

Steve

Hi Steve, Guys,

Don't knock only having a fixed 90 degree jaw ! I've got mine set up dead square and don't want to move it. If I want to cut an angle I use a wood block to set the angle that I want and know that it will be accurate. I'm sure that I posted a picture not too long ago of me doing just that.

07-02-2020-009.jpg 07-02-2020-008.jpg

I thought that I had ! Here I'm cutting an 8.5 degree angle. Actually a bit more than that because I also used wedges to adjust it.

Received my shipment of a full set of Knipex pliers wrenches today.
Only took 2.5 months delivery time out of covid riddled Germany... The price you have to pay to beat the Australia tax I guess. Way cheaper than buying individually locally.

Gave them a good workout on a ring main job fitting some brass parts to the system. Flawless victory. They are a shifter on steroids, with a heap of grip strength available through the pivot mechanism.

s-l1600.jpg

If height is not a problem go taper roller bearings, if height is a problem go the thrust bearings.

The taper rollers would be much stronger in my opinion, but you need to use something to retain it in it's seat.
If it will fit a standard ford trailer taper roller bearing will take 1.5 ton per pair radially, and I am sure a lot more axially.
Even a deep groove bearing will retain it for this job.

If you could use the trailer small taper bearing to retain it would be perfect, and cheap as you can just buy a trailer bearing kits from eBay.