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Thread: ER 32 or ER 40 collet chuck
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3rd Apr 2011, 10:47 PM #1future machinist
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ER 32 or ER 40 collet chuck
i want to get a collet chuck for my mill but not sure if i should get an er 32 or an er 40 i there any significant size difference in the two .
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3rd Apr 2011, 11:05 PM #2Most Valued Member
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What mill and what taper do you have welder?
This thread maybe of interest
http://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/le...6/#post1279380
Stuart
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3rd Apr 2011, 11:11 PM #3future machinist
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ow my mill spindle has a mt3 taper
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3rd Apr 2011, 11:13 PM #4Dave J Guest
The 32 is the most popular in home shops, because the 40 hangs out a lot. If you have a large mill and need the 25mm capacity go for the 40.
Dave
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3rd Apr 2011, 11:20 PM #5Most Valued Member
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With MT3, I would think the 32 was the way to go, but that comes from a guy that hasn't gotten around to buying one for himself yet.
Having said that I had a bad night on ebay so might need to buy me something so I feel better.
Stuart
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3rd Apr 2011, 11:22 PM #6future machinist
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well i only have a mill drill and seeing a picture of the size difference between the two i think i will go with er32 i can always buy an er40 with 1inch collet later if i need to use the 1 inch end mills i have.
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4th Apr 2011, 12:10 AM #7Dave J Guest
Good choice, I would go for the ER32. You maybe able to find or make a MT3 end mill holder for the 25mm ones.
Something like this
Dave
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4th Apr 2011, 12:50 AM #8Product designer retired
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Nice work Dave assuming you made those. How do you get the bore spot on?
Drill and bore or ream?
Ken
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4th Apr 2011, 01:26 AM #9Dave J Guest
Those ones are not mine Ken, but I made half dozen last year of similar shape for lathe centre drills (another thread I was going to put up, will try to get it done)
The ones I made hold different size centre drills. Their about 130-150mm long so they reach across the cross slide easy, and there quick and easy to put in and out instead of using a drill chuck.
When I made them I just held the bar in the chuck and machined the MT3 first. Then removed the chuck turned them around and put them in the lathe spindle with a MT5 to MT3 reducer, drilled the hole and machined the outside to shape. The pressure from drilling keeps them held firmly in the MT, and a live centre was used to hold them while I machined the outside.
As I said above I will get some pictures and post them up, they are easy made but a real time saver.
Dave
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4th Apr 2011, 01:30 AM #10Dave J Guest
This is the site I got the picture from
9x20 Lathe Collet & Jawed Spindle Chucks
I just typed in end mill holder looking for a picture to show Welder, and it was the first good picture that popped up.
Dave
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4th Apr 2011, 01:40 AM #11future machinist
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hi im going off topic but dont want to start a new thread bu currently the mill spindle is wobbling i think it the drill chuck but not sure how can i check this
BETTER TO HAVE TOOLS YOU DON'T NEED THAN TO NEED TOOLS YOU DON'T HAVE
Andre
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4th Apr 2011, 01:58 AM #12Dave J Guest
If you have a dial test indicater, you can mount it so the contact point is touching the inside of the spindle taper. You could also mount a standard one touching the outside of MT shank mounted in the spindle a few mm away from the end of the spindle.
With either test you are looking for any variation in the needle movement.
Dave
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