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Thread: Arboga EM825 mill/drill
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14th Feb 2011, 06:08 PM #1Product designer retired
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Arboga EM825 mill/drill
I cannot take a decent photo for the life of me, even with the camera set on auto.
As promised, I attempted to get some shots working under extreme conditions, bad lighting and the mill squeezed in between other items with no room to maneuver.
All the poor images had to be Photo shopped, just to see them. So until I get someone else to get some, here they are.
Please note the good hand wheel graduated dial, and the crook one. Why one is ok and the other rusted, is a mystery. They are only inches from each other.
I'll submit this post in two sections.
1. The mill itself &
2. The tooling
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14th Feb 2011, 06:14 PM #2Product designer retired
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Arboga EM835 mill drill tooling etc
Attached is some of the tooling.
The arbor is not rusty, just stained from being insitu for 40 years.
Are these Clarkson collets? There are some bits of tooling that don't make sense, yet.
I got a lot of parallel cutters and a tin of maybe 30 tapered cutters. It has been sugested that the tapered cutters were used for cutting the relief on moulding dies. Your guess?
Ken
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14th Feb 2011, 06:27 PM #3.
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Nice!
I like it Ken.
BT
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14th Feb 2011, 07:07 PM #4Product designer retired
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AB,
When are coming to Melbourne next? I should get you to take some snaps for me.
To get an overall view of what the EM825 is like, see Tony's site here.
Page Title
Arboga must have made a left and right hand version of their EM825. Tony's photos show the gear levers on the opposite side of the head to mine. Can anyone confirm this?
Ken
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14th Feb 2011, 07:08 PM #5Dave J Guest
A good clean up and you will be up and running.
I was shown by Retromilling the candle light function in the menu of my camera and have had good results ever since using it.
Dave
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14th Feb 2011, 07:52 PM #6
Looks good, Ken. Those are Clarkson collets, those tapered cutters are threaded for same. Look for large ring spanner for the Clarkson chuck. I have one just like it for the Deckel, but no spanner. These things pop up on ebay all the time if you ever need collets.
Greg
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14th Feb 2011, 09:57 PM #7Product designer retired
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Hi Greg,
In some discussions we have had, you recommend fitting the spindle up with an ER collet set-up. I will assume you went down this path with your Arboga Indian sister.
Is there much involved? I assume a collar of appropriate dimensions, is heat shrunk onto the No.3 arbor.
Ken
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14th Feb 2011, 10:12 PM #8
Ken, no heat shrinking required. ER collet chucks are available cheaply from CTC tools or onlinetoolseller on ebay (Approx $35). Collets are more money as a set, or you can just get the few that you need for common cutter sizes. The only thing you'd need to make would be the slotted spacer that goes between your collet chuck and the infamous knurled ring which gave you so much grief. The spacer is just a slotted washer...you can see your Clarkson version in your photo.
Greg
My drill does not have the retaining ring, so simple morse tooling is the go. It is not rigid enough for milling cutters, so I aim to mount a good chuck and call it done.
On the Deckel I have ER, Clarkson and some of the Deckel collets. Space under the vertical spindle is limited so it can be important to keep the tooling as short as possible (helps for rigidity too of course)
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15th Feb 2011, 12:21 AM #9.
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"AB,
When are coming to Melbourne next? I should get you to take some snaps for me."
Actually, my youngest daughter lives in Melbourne and whilst she came back to Perth for Christmas, my wife has been urging me to fly over to see her. It would be good to catch up, but the medicine would come out, we'd talk s..t and get and the photos wouldn't get taken.
Seriously Ken, when I pull my finger out I'll let you know. It would be nice to meet you.
Bob.
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15th Feb 2011, 12:55 AM #10.
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Collets
Ken,
The collets in your photo are not the standard, reasonably readily available, type S collets which most probably means nothing unless you are chasing more. The photos below show the small type S chuck and collets along with the spanner mentioned by Greg. I have bought collets from a seller, Callybill, on UK Ebay. He has some spanners should you decide to use your Clarkson chuck.
I would side with Greg in recommending an ER chuck. They are cheap and readily available and you can use both plain and screw shank cutters in them unlike the Clarkson that will only allow the use of the latter.
Bob
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15th Feb 2011, 02:17 PM #11.
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Ken,
I did a bit more digging this morning. It turns out that your collets are Clarkson type C collets. They were the predecessor of the type S collet. The suggestion, in my reading, is that they were only available in imperial sizes. They do appear on UK Ebay.
Below is a photo from G and M's website showing the collets with a 50 taper chuck.
http://www.gandmtools.co.uk/cat_leaf.php?id=813
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15th Feb 2011, 09:50 PM #12
Hi Ken,
So...It's not a myth after all... actually doesn't look half bad.. good solid looking machine.
Regards
Ray
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16th Feb 2011, 07:02 PM #13Product designer retired
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Schidt, where did that go?
Bloody hell, how was I to know, more in a minute. Everyone knows Greg is the restoration guru, with finess to equal a brain surgeon, and a taste for European machines built like Swiss watches. Greg is currently investing some time into glass bead blasting. More later.
Back to the start, today I carefully removed the graduated dials from Arboga mill. One ok, the other rusted. First a locknut, then the main nut followed by a couple of washers, then the handwheel. So far no dramas.
Off next was the graduated collars, easy peasy with a copper hammer.
Shock, horror, gasp, fine springs and brass plugs began appearing from nowhere. Luckily I retained them all except for one brass plug. It had managed to escape, but was at my feet. Phew!
In the back of each graduated collar, are three blind holes accommodating three springs and brass plugs, about 3mm in dia x 3mm long. I quickly worked out that these gizmos provide some friction to the dials, so they can be rotated to zero, and stay there.
The dials are off for glass bead blasting by Greg, in order to get that frosted silver finish. I've got a lacquer stick, compliments of one of our members, and this will be used to re-blacken the scribed lines and numbers.
That's it for now, will document the blasting procedure as we go.
Ken
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16th Feb 2011, 07:11 PM #14
Ken, I am not. Not by a long shot. But thanks for the vote of confidence.
I did manage to do some blasting today...tried some garnet on two overarms from the Deckel...works great, and I only lose about 25-30% of the media. I figure each piece cost me about 50¢ in garnet.
Next I tried the glass beads on a couple of dials: I have 20µ beads which feel like the finest thing my fingers have ever sifted. They sting like hell though when ricocheted back off the workpiece.
So far I am only OK with it-not delighted at the results yet. I'm going to fool around a bit more tomorrow with more distance between the gun and dials. If that doesn't work I'm going to try walnut shells. (The finish so far looks a bit coarse for my liking, and now I'm wondering about satin chrome plating after this)
Greg
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16th Feb 2011, 07:24 PM #15Product designer retired
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Greg, you are being far too modest, I've seen your work, it's first class compared with some "restorations" I've seen.
I too reckon satin chrome or nickel plating is a must after media blasting. After blasting, with the pores open, rust will follow quicker than the cat woofing it's tea down. Well my cat anyway, it's a guts.
Ken
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