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  1. #91
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    Great work Bob....
    tell me.... why does it need to look like a nederlanders wooden clog
    I thought all planes had a flat sole

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave J View Post
    Great work and coming along nicely Bob,
    At this rate it will be finished by Christmas.

    Dave
    yes Dave, if Bob does'nt dilly dally around my plane might be finished in time

  2. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete F View Post
    Bob I may have missed it, but did you start with CI block, or did you cut out a block from round? I've only been able to find CI in rounds and it typically feels like such a waste to me to just bandsaw a bunch of it away.

    Pete
    I was lucky in this case Pete. About 4 years ago, I had planned on making my own version of a taper turning attachment for my lathe. I found some 80 x 50 cast bar at Interlloy and they very kindly band sawed it in half lengthways. When I went to pay for it I was offered the couple of remaining offcuts of the bar they had at an attractive price. I've been slowly nibbling away at them ever since. That bar has offered up two vises and the slide for my Hercus milling attachment. Handy stuff to have.

    Round bar has been my only option for the dividing head bracket and tailstock and the slotting head. I unfortunately don't have a metal cutting bandsaw so I have had to cut the stuff using a slitting saw. You get there in the end. The offcuts have proven valuable. The 13's travel stops and the table adjuster are from the slotting head scraps.

    BT

  3. #93
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    You don't have a horizontal bandsaw Bob. Ok, today you're going to run, don't walk, run to the nearest supplier, lay down your 300 bucks and buy yourself a 6 x 4 horizontal/vertical bandsaw! It will be the best value you ever spend on a single tool, and even if you sprint there you'll wonder why it took you so long! They look like a POS, because they are, but they cut stock while you're going more important things ... like posting your next brilliantly piece of your work here for us to gawk at!

    Nice pick up on the cast iron. I happened to be down by the steel supplier the other day and picked up some bar ends, but couldn't think of the actual sizes I needed to pending projects. Unfortunately they don't keep any cast iron at all there. That's a 45 minute drive in the opposite direction

    Pete

  4. #94
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    Bob,
    truly impressed with how this plane is appearing out of the cast iron block!

    To perhaps whet your appetite for another style of plane making, have a look at this page.
    A look inside a welded construction post WW2 Norris A5.
    Interestingly there is also a WW1 edition Spiers plane with welded sides to the base.

    Regards,
    Peter

  5. #95
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    Bob can't answer Peter, he's busy buying a bandsaw

    I didn't realise they were welded, I always thought they were peened dovetail construction, so there you go, learn something new every day!

    Pete

  6. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete F View Post
    Bob can't answer Peter, he's busy buying a bandsaw

    I didn't realise they were welded, I always thought they were peened dovetail construction, so there you go, learn something new every day!

    Pete
    Peter,
    the pre-war models are dovetailed, the larger postwar models were machined out of a channel.
    I'll do a page on this 17 1/2 inch plane soon.
    BTW, Bob could have chosen the parallel sided Norris #51 to base his plane on...he just chose the much more difficult one to go for, well done that man!!

    Regards,
    Peter
    Attachment 172368Attachment 172369

  7. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by lightwood View Post
    Peter,
    the pre-war models are dovetailed, the larger postwar models were machined out of a channel.
    I'll do a page on this 17 1/2 inch plane soon.
    BTW, Bob could have chosen the parallel sided Norris #51 to base his plane on...he just chose the much more difficult one to go for, well done that man!!

    Regards,
    Peter
    Aaaahh, my memory isn't so ##### after all, just my sense of timing!

    Bob is a very difficult man.

    David Charlesworth did some articles on making an infill plane about 5 years ago IIRC and appeared in Furniture and Cabinet making magazine, did you catch them? Quite interesting.

    Pete

  8. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by eskimo View Post
    Great work Bob....
    tell me.... why does it need to look like a nederlanders wooden clog
    I thought all planes had a flat sole



    yes Dave, if Bob does'nt dilly dally around my plane might be finished in time
    Esk,

    I imagine you are talking about the curved sides and the way the base thins out towards the heel in the fashion of a Dutch slipper. Curved sided or "coffin" smoothing planes have been around in Europe since about 1700 according to R A Salaman in his Dictionary of Woodworking Tools. The thin rear of the plane I'm trying to make appeared on the cheaper versions of the Norris smoothing plane, the No.s 50 and 51.

    The curved sided 50 has always been my favourite. With a handle fitted, the cloglike resemblance should dissipate.

    BT

  9. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete F View Post
    Bob can't answer Peter, he's busy buying a bandsaw

    I didn't realise they were welded, I always thought they were peened dovetail construction, so there you go, learn something new every day!

    Pete
    It's a public holiday over here Pete. The saw will have to wait. I do have a beautiful little LOTZE power hacksaw but I can't use it for sawing up slices of cast iron. I mentioned your prompting to my wife. Her response was "just buy the thing".

    BT

  10. #100
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    I need to respond to a number of things mentioned by Ray and Peter "Lightwood" McBride.

    I do have a beautiful, nicely figured slice of Claro Walnut which I intend using for the handle (see photo, page 1 of this thread). The front "bun" could either be a piece of the exquisite English Walnut kindly given to me by Ray and his gunsmith mate, Colin, or another piece of Claro that I have.

    As a result of a two hour telephone conversation with Peter McB, and Peter's generosity, I have both a 2 3/32" and 3" wide lever cap. Both of these caps are destined for future planes because my pretend plane suits a 2 1/4 inch blade. I had thought of making the lever cap from cast iron but Peter's rough cast brass (bronze?) cap looks good against the cast iron, good enough that I reckon I will abandon the austere cast iron version I had in mind.

    The blade might well be better off being home made given that I will need more than just a blade for this plane. Peter McB suggested a skewed mitre plane would be worthy of consideration.

    I had a post war Beech filled A5. I bought it for 95 quid in London back in 1985. I removed the infill and replaced it with Amazon Rosewood. That plane did not have the bosses shown in Peter's photos. Mine used cross dowels to secure the handles. I left them in place and slotted the replacement infill to straddle the dowels.

    The bronze A17 Norris lookalike that rekindled my interest in all this plane stuff after nearly twenty years has the sides TIG welded to the base, in post war fashion.

    It wasn't until yesterday when I curved the sides of the base, that the plane felt like the thing I was trying to recreate. I was nervous about the curving. Had it not looked the part, it would be in the Sulo bin. I was lucky.

    The star in this project has been my mill and it's flexibility.

    Thank you ALL for your words of encouragement.

    BT

  11. #101
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    Bob,
    Is my memory serving me well?
    That bronze plane had the misfortune to get a set of holes forward of the throat...and that was the brick wall
    If you hadn't thought about a solution...or maybe you already considered this one.
    Mill out a rectangular opening with a step out along the edges and fabricate / mill up a sliding throat closer that has an adjuster screw, maybe knurled at the front and a knurled tightening screw at the top of the bun...to match the lever screw...???
    Just a thought....
    Regards,
    Peter

  12. #102
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    I have to try and think back to 1992 . The wall was not having something suitable to stuff the thing with. I had a slice of Cocobolo but it wasn't high enough for a closed handle. I think those holes forward of the mouth were simply for the steel sole attachment rivets. I imagine the rear holes were for the same purpose. I would have used something larger for the fixing of the anti chatter block at that location.

    Peter, I don't know what I will do with the bronze plane. If I manage to get the 50 copy up and running ( it's starting to look promising ), I don't really need another smoother. The skewed mitre is something I'm warming to. It would be my first crack at a dovetailed plane.

    Below are photos of the Cocobolo and a chunk of Maracaibo Boxwood. The piece of timber in the foreground is roughly 70 x 70mm. I've had the wood for nearly 20 years. Should be nicely seasoned. There could be a few planes hiding amongst that lot.

    BT

  13. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anorak Bob View Post
    I imagine you are talking about the curved sides and the way the base thins out towards the heel in the fashion of a Dutch slipper.
    No...I refer to the toe(?) where it hooks up...just like our old pointy toed shoes used to?

  14. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anorak Bob View Post

    The star in this project has been my mill and it's flexibility.

    BT
    not to mention the creators ingenuity, fascination and love of beautiful planes

  15. #105
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    BT,
    Excellent job, an artisan's work, well documented and photographed to boot and I trust an inspiration. Of course a nice mill helps.
    Alan

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