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Thread: Mill DRO
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9th Mar 2011, 09:44 PM #106Dave J Guest
So we can expect nothing less than 0.001 accuracy in all your future projects then. LOL
I wouldn't worry about the M4 screws under the M8 bolts as it takes a lot of force to strip a M4 screw for it to move. As long as they are touching metal and not just sitting on putty they should be fine.
I used M4 in mine and have had no trouble at all and they seem to be really strong.
I am just wondering why you have the M4 on the left and right of the M8 bolt as well?
Dave
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9th Mar 2011, 09:57 PM #107Most Valued Member
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Just a little embarrassing today
I got the Y scale mounted.
Than made the mount for the reader head.
Then butchered drilling the holes to mount it!!!!!!!!!!
I drill into the counter bore for the bolt the holds the "gib block" onto the bottom of the Y carriage. Not once, TWICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Luckily my butchery is covered by the bracket so no one else will ever know
The last picture is milling the bracket to get the read head height right.
Tomorrow I just have to drill the holes to bolt the head to the bracket.
Stuart
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10th Mar 2011, 01:08 AM #108Most Valued Member
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Stu's slow typing strikes again. I nearly missed your posts as I was typing mine at the time.
J&H
I've found it pretty easy to get the X to ***.000 as the X axis its pretty tight at the ends. It moves 0.003mm!! when I lock one of the X gib locks(the other one has a broken handle ATM, maybe that will even it out lol).
Going to have to get me a spot drill.
DaveJ
Your measuring gear needs to be more accurate than your tolerance........ so an accuracy of future projects will be 0.01mm lololololololo I wish.
M4 looks so tiny next to an M8 though, I would have split the dif and gone with M5 but I don't have good taps or many bolts in M5.
I used four bolts because I was thinking of each end as a separate mounting point, I didn't think of "the whole" and not needing them.(I used four because I was to lazy to do the math for three, which would have been wrong as well). Would have to be a pretty good shot to drop something very heavy on it without hitting something else important on the way down anyway.
Stuart
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10th Mar 2011, 05:54 AM #109Most Valued Member
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M4 looks so tiny next to an M8 though, I would have split the dif and gone with M5 but I don't have good taps or many bolts in M5.
Maybe good to have the DRO.
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10th Mar 2011, 10:03 AM #110Most Valued Member
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I meant the dif between M4 and M6 pc
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11th Mar 2011, 12:47 AM #111Most Valued Member
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Y is up and running.
Thinking about the Z now. I'd like to mount it low enough so that I can't hit the scale or the angle it is bolted to with anything sticking off the edge of the table, something like in the picture. The read head is as low as it would need to go as the scale is about 120mm longer than it needs to be.
Have to buy some more angle for starters.
Stuart
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11th Mar 2011, 07:38 PM #112I break stuff...
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Both my X and Y do the same thing usually. Sometimes I try to trick it by winding to ***.995 and then locking the gibs. It even works occasionally. Have noticed that if I back the handwheel off a touch so that its in the middle of its backlash, the readings don't move as much when I lock the gibs.
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11th Mar 2011, 08:01 PM #113Most Valued Member
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Hi J&H
I didn't even think to check it when I got the Y going.
I've just been out to check, I've found the X moves about as much as the Y when you lock the Y. Backing off the handles goes seem to help .
The Y axis is pretty loose in the middle of its travel so I am guessing that the carriage moves sideways but the table doesn't move as much because of the crossnut. If I lock the X first the number doesn't change when I lock the Y but I assume that then the table then moves in relation to the spindle. I'll play more after dinner.
But either way I doubt a few 1/1000th's of a mm is going to worry me one way or the other.
Stuart
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11th Mar 2011, 09:50 PM #114Dave J Guest
Mine usually moves from 0.000mm to 0.015mm then when one is gib lock is locked then goes to 0.005mm when the other one is locked. Like above I also usually start at 0.995 to get it spot on. I don't worry about it too much unless it's needed, but something in me always makes me want to get 0.000.LOL
The standard mill graduation scales are usually only 0.02 or 0.001thou (0.025mm) so getting 0.01mm is pretty good as it is.
This is why I mentioned earlier about keeping the scale and reader head as close as possible to the way, it helps to keep this down to a minimum. I noticed when I built my knee bracket and it was about 125mm back from the column way, the numbers would move around a lot. There is no real way around it as there isn't much room to work with and it needs to be out of the way.
Getting back to the scale mounting, it's looking good. Are you going to install a cover over the front of the scale?
When I mounted mine on the angle, I left a small amount of room between the top of the scale and the angle and mounted the modified original cover onto the angle. I had to cut some of the mounting flat off the aluminum cover so I could keep the scale as close to the top as possible like in the photo below.
With the one on the front of the table I just used a strip of flat bar so it would be better protected.
Dave
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11th Mar 2011, 10:48 PM #115Most Valued Member
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Hi Dave
It's funny isn't it, "all the zores look nice". Maybe I should put a piece of black tape over the last 0. lol
I might just be able to use that broken 460mm scale on the Z, that would bring the bottom of the scale up about 50mm(from memory). In fact its the broken one on the Y ATM. You wouldnt happen to know if you can turn the read head around in the scale so the wires come out the other side?(of course on a non-broken scale this wouldnt matter). hm thinking about it. maybe I should cut it down.
I dont have room for that, its 2.5mm from the angle to the scale. I'm pretty sure I will be able to fit something like this.
Stuart
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12th Mar 2011, 01:16 AM #116Dave J Guest
That will do the job just as good.
Can you turn the scale end for end? That would fix the cable entry.
If not, most reader heads have a way to reverse the cable entry, like a cover that can be turned around or similar.
I think you will find the glass is on around a 30 degree angle so you can't just turn it around.
With the scale only being broken on the end and if your travel is shorter, just leave it as is and don't use the travel on that end. Have a scale a little longer on the knee wont hurt as there is plenty of room. Just take off the end caps and blow it out with air in case there is any glass fragments in their. Cutting it could bugger it up completely, though I have read it can be done.
Dave
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