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Thread: Mill DRO

  1. #91
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    Got some time tonight.
    The block is mounted now. I'm planning on removing the angle iron to machine the face that the read head bolts to while the bracket is in place.

    Stuart

    P.s. the red line is about where the read head mounts.
    Last edited by Stustoys; 28th Feb 2011 at 10:05 PM. Reason: p.s.

  2. #92
    Dave J Guest

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    Thats a better picture, that is one custom braket..
    Are you going to counter sink those socket head bolts so you can machine the face without hitting them? Also is there going to be enough meat left for the screw for the reader head.

    Dave

  3. #93
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    Hmm Dave brings up a good point lol
    I was planning on leaving the socket heads as they are. I can clean it up after it I cant get the cutter right down. I only need it vertical where the read head will go, even that isn't really fussy as you know.
    I'm hope to lower the scale so that the bolts for the read head screw into the thicker part(blue line) or I'll pack it away from the angle iron to make the thin part a little thicker. The thin part is really there to stop coolant/swarf getting anywhere need the head.

    Stuart

  4. #94
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    How am I going to machine the bracket on the machine? The bracket doesn't move lol. Of course I didnt think this through until I had removed all the angle iron mounting.
    Just have to make some spaces now to space the scale off the angle, then I'' only have three axis left lol

  5. #95
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    Made up the spacers for the end of the X scale today.
    After "only" 7 pages I have a DRO on the X axis
    Its not finished but atleast its working. I'll start on the Y and Z now as they will both be on the same side so need to be done together. Once they are all finished I'l clean them up and give them a coat of paint.
    Thanks guys

    Stuart

  6. #96
    Dave J Guest

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    That came up looking great Stuart, As for being 7 pages, perfection takes time.
    I wouldn't worry about painting the aluminum, and just leave it as is, it shouldn't corrode.
    I belt sanded the top of the angle on mine so it looked the same as the table and just painted the ends and the front.

    Dave

  7. #97
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    Hi Stuart,

    Nice job, I can see a bit of careful thought and planning has gone into the mounting.

    I wouldn't be too fussed about how long things take, there is a certain order and sequence for these things to be done properly, if you take short cuts, you almost always end up doing it again later.

    From what I can see of what you've done so far , you will only be doing this job once.

    Look forward to seeing the other axes.

    Regards
    Ray

  8. #98
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    Hi Ray
    Thanks for that. Its funny you should appear, I've been thinking about how to add the limit switches for the power feed and most of the ideas I came up with were either ugly, fiddly or complicated, some all three .

    Then I was looking through your lathe stop thread again and though "well two of those would do it". So I have a few questions.
    1. All the ones I've found so far are like $20 each. Is there some where around that's cheaper?
    2. I assume they have current limits in the mA range so I'd need some relays.
    3. In your diagram in lathe stop there is no "current control" on the brown wire, is that looked after by the switch?

    Thanks

    Stuart

  9. #99
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    Hi Stuart,

    I got some from here ..Computer control Home & Limit switch Proximity Sensor (eBay item 270708545870 end time 21-Mar-11 12:16:44 AEDST) : Industrial
    $22.90 is a good price for SunX proximity switches, I am used to paying $80+ Makes me a little suspicious, are they genuine SunX? All I can say for sure is that they work fine for what I'm doing..

    For power feed travel limits I think you are better off with a mechanical micro switch, like these..
    Electrical IP66 Rotary Roller Lever Arm Limit Switch (eBay item 280637133233 end time 30-Mar-11 20:03:01 AEDST) : Industrial

    My plan for the mill cnc conversion is to use the proximity switches for homing and normal limits and then mechanical switches which trip the e-stop circuit for over-travel.

    I assume you meant voltage regulation, not current control, these sensors will run on 12 - 24 volts, so no regulator required.


    Regards
    Ray

  10. #100
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    I cant think of a way to make the micro switches look "non ugly". As there needs to be some give in the system somewhere, but I also want a solid stop. Also the proximity switches are sealed. I'll do some more thiking.

    Ray, with electronics assume nothing, I have little idea what I am talking about and tend to let the smoke out of transistors.

    In the drawing of the proximity switch. The brown wire is the base and the blue is the emitter right? If you didn't limit the base current, wouldn't all the curret flow through base emitter.
    1 the relay wouldn't close.
    2 the magic smoke would be let out of the transistor
    I assume the current it limited some how inside the proximity switch.

    Stuart

  11. #101
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    Hi Stuart,

    Ok, I see the reason for the confusion, the circuit diagram I drew only shows the output transistor stage, there is a lot of other "stuff" inside that little block of plastic. That's inside the box I drew on the diagram. There is a coil, an oscillator, some detection circuitry, and finally an output circuit. As you bring something metallic close to the magnetic field, the eddy currents in the metal generate a magnetic field that affects the magnetic field generated by the coil and oscillator, the detection circuit detects this change in the oscillator and triggers the output. The base current limiting resistor and the rest of the circuitry is all inside that little blob of plastic..

    I'm a bit leery of just using proximity switches alone, I'm mostly concerned about swarf building up and generating false trips.

    If you want a neater mounting solution for the micro switch option, you could make an enclosure to mount standard micro switches, with spring loaded plunger of some sort.

    Use these switches..

    CNC 3Axis Micro Home Limit Switch Panic stop button Kit (eBay item 280632290342 end time 21-Mar-11 12:16:44 AEDST) : Industrial
    And design a mounting block to suit.

    Regards
    Ray

  12. #102
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    Fine! I'll make the boring old fashion micro switches work. I have some already and can make them work lol...... making it pretty and coolant proof will be the hard part.
    As always thanks for your time.

    Hope to have a few pic of what I plan to do with the Y axis tomorrow for you guys to pick apart

    Stuart

  13. #103
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    The plan.
    As the Y and Z will not be on the same side as I said in an earlier post(as I would need to move the control box backwards), I'm going ahead with just the Y.

    I'm plan on mounting the angle iron as in the first picture, using four pointed M4 screws each end to level it.(The filler on the knee is thick enough to that the magnetic bases wont even support their own weight)

    How much space should I leave between the bottom of the Y and the top of the angle? I was thinking about 5mm. The Y way covers come out to about where the magnetic bases start.

    The second part is for the reader head.
    Sorry its not to scale.

    Anything I'm forgetting?

    Stuart

  14. #104
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    Got to use the X axis DRO today pitching between the holes in the angle iron. Feel a little stupid bumping the handle to get to the nearest 0.001mm lol
    I upped the size of the adjustment screws to M6. Not really sure I like this mounting as the force of anything dropped on the angle goes into the bottom M6 screw at each end. Maybe I should drill a new hole pattern turned 45 degrees so there are two screws below the M8 mounting bolt.
    On the plus side I got to use my "backwards"
    With luck I'll get the scale on and the reader head mount done tomorrow.

    Stuart

  15. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Feel a little stupid bumping the handle to get to the nearest 0.001mm lol
    It counts, alright! At least, that's what I tell myself while I'm bouncing between ***.995 and ***.005 trying to get to ***.000 (mine only reads to 0.005mm). Half the time I just give up and call it good enough though

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