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Thread: Mill DRO
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28th Nov 2010, 10:17 PM #46Most Valued Member
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Thanks Dave
My tool sharpening could use a lot of work but the finish is pretty good, better than off the mill I think. I couldn't use my favorite tool profile because I needed the 90 deg corners. But they are within a couple of .001" which seems to be about the smallest cut I can take. I am guessing its the tool holder I am using, its off a lathe with built in rake, so as it flexes the cut depth increases.
I've got the plates finished. Just as I was finishing the 2nd one I relised that I could have made them in one piece and cut it in half lol.
The first plate fits the T slot with 0.03mm play, the second one isn't so good at 0.1mm play.
Damn shapers make a mess!! going to have to make something like a grass catcher for it.
I'll have to buy some 8mm bolts tomorrow so I can bolt it together and see how it looks.
I think I can use your last stop idea even with the scale vertical. I'll have a look tomorrow if I get it together.
Stuart
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28th Nov 2010, 11:01 PM #47Dave J Guest
You don't want them to be to tight anyway or they will bind.
I kept these photos of this shaper for ideas, it is an over kill in safety guarding, but I like the perspex shield, it would stop swarf going across the shed and stop the hot ones getting thrown at you.
It was on ebay UK and they wanted 10,000 pounds for it and said it was a new 1996 model from memory. I think it would have been made in India as their still making them their. Notice they even went as far as having a yellow tool for added safety and a foot switch.
Dave
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28th Nov 2010, 11:38 PM #48Most Valued Member
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These plates wont be sliding once assembled.
I was thinking about some sort of 90 deg funnel mounted off the base, but I haven't giving it a lot of thought yet.
Emg stop on the back of the machine?
Table up/down on the other side of the machine?
To go a little OT I did some of the Vertical cuts on the shaper with the table table height. I've read that you should use the tool height for vertical moves but then you need to be sure its set at 90 deg, any idea why?
Stuart
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29th Nov 2010, 12:28 AM #49Dave J Guest
I have seen smaller machines with power table feed as well as cross feed, so it is normal on smaller machines at least.
With a large machine like yours the support leg would not be able to be used so the table could/would droop, but if the job was set up aligned without it I can't see a problem. One thing with manually raising the table would be inconsistent feed and very tiring on a larger job.
With the tool head/slide you would set it true vertical if you needed a vertical cut, otherwise you could angle it. the clapper always needs to be angled away from the job for clearance on the return stroke. To set the tool slide true use a square on the table and a dial indicator onto the square.
Dave
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30th Nov 2010, 02:22 PM #50Most Valued Member
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Talking about overkill? I finally bolted the plates to the angle. There will be two more 8mm bolts through that go into the T slots. Four bolts and two pins. now that ought to do it.
Have to go out and buy some good taps. I have a cheap set and while they do work. sort of. It takes about 15 minutes to tap each hole lol Still the whole set cost just a little more than 1 sutton tap.
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30th Nov 2010, 02:45 PM #51Dave J Guest
I have all sorts of top brands tap here and decided to buy some of the H&F's HSS ones when I was down their a few years ago. I only did this because I bought a set of Sutton's and 2 where blunt strait out of the packet.
They have worked out to be just as good as the Sutton HSS ones I have bought and have lasted and are still going strong.
They sell them in a set of three in all the common sizes and are about half price of Sutton sets.
Going by your picture you will have one of these at each end?
Dave
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30th Nov 2010, 03:17 PM #52Most Valued Member
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Wow I've always found Sutton to be spot on. Maybe things are slipping? Did you call them? I assume all their stuff is still AU made?
I tend to buy 1 bottom and 1 gun tap rather than a set of 3, depends on my mood lol
I have a set the same as H&F's T012 with I paid $20 delivered I believe. They have been ok up until I wanted to tap a M8 through 12mm.
Yes one plate each end.
Stuart
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30th Nov 2010, 04:04 PM #53Dave J Guest
Do you use tapping fluid? It will make your taps cut better and last longer.
Dave
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30th Nov 2010, 04:41 PM #54Most Valued Member
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I use trefolex cutting compound. But as I've never used anything else I have no idea how good it is.
Damn shop shuts and 5 and I cant get there until 1/4 past.
better wait until morning as these threads are the important ones.
Why are things never as easy as you think they are going to be? lol
Stuart
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30th Nov 2010, 07:16 PM #55Dave J Guest
Thats my specialty, under quoting time to do something.LOL
Dave
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1st Dec 2010, 03:20 PM #56Most Valued Member
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Dave
When you mounted the scale onto the angle. Did you machine the angle or the scale at all to make the corner fit? To get off the radius of the corner I have to move the scale down about 5mm. Which isnt to bad I guess, its just you seem to be able 1mm down.
Also are the two 4mm capscrews really enough to hold a 1m long scale?
Bought my new taps.... soo much easier, although the time saved was lost because I drilled a clearance hole where it sould have been a taped hole. hehe
Stuart
p.s. I found a use for my long drawbar, when using the drill chuck to tapping a hole I've just drilled I can turn the tap with a spanner on the draw bar.
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1st Dec 2010, 03:58 PM #57Dave J Guest
Hi Stuart,
My scales had a radios similar to the angle so they fitted pretty close as you saw.
If yours have a sharp corner just mill or grind the corner of the angle out, I would not touch the scale though.
The factory fitted scales on mine where held on with 4mm socket head cap screws, so I think they will be fine. From memory I used 5mm ones instead because I had some here. My Meister DRO didn't come with any hardware and I used 6mm screws back then and it hard fitting them as their was no room for adjustment and had to be spot on.
The X scale on mine has 670 travel and is about 790mm long and the 4mm ones it come with held it fine, theirs is not much pressure put on it with only the reader head sliding along it.
With your clearance hole, time to get out the welder,lol
Your draw bar sounds like it's working for a tapping aid, a spring center is a good project for tapping and you can use it in the lathe as well.
Dave
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1st Dec 2010, 04:50 PM #58Most Valued Member
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My scales have sharp corners. Change of plan anyway, I'm going to space the scale off the angel by about 3mm so on the readhead mounting block. I will have a piece of 2mm steel that goes up between the scale and the angle to stop anything the falls down the gap filling up. Something not completly unlike the drawning. Although of course that may change.
Toying with the idea of adding some sort of tray to the angle iron each end. Something thats quick to remove but can hold all the little things that are always floating around when I work lol
My welder isn't home at the minute so I just made a new one.
Yeah spring centers of some kind are on the to do list.
Stuart
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1st Dec 2010, 04:57 PM #59Dave J Guest
Not sure what you mean about the 2mm, wont the scale still be under the angle and protected?
Dave
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1st Dec 2010, 05:31 PM #60Most Valued Member
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Well forgetting the drawing wouldn't have helped
To stop swarf that will build up on the mount(Red)getting between the head and the scale.
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