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  1. #16
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    Jul 2010
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    Melbourne
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    Have you tried turning the case off? If it's really hard you might not be able to. You're going to need to drill a hole at 90deg to the slot as well right? So turning the shaft down will fix that at the same time. I can't think of a way to make it by grinding the case off and having it look much good. Unless of course you have a surface grinder and a way of indexing the shaft.
    Stuart

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Athelstone, SA 5076
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    4,255

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan View Post

    Ray, I don't have a heat source yet, but I'm considering one of these: https://www.alltools.com.au/shop/ind...me_Pack_BJ2101.
    if the above at all tools doesnt work one of these would
    https://www.alltools.com.au/shop/ind..._&_Welding_Kit

  3. #18
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Lower Lakes SA
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    58
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    2,607

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Have you tried turning the case off? If it's really hard you might not be able to. You're going to need to drill a hole at 90deg to the slot as well right? So turning the shaft down will fix that at the same time. I can't think of a way to make it by grinding the case off and having it look much good. Unless of course you have a surface grinder and a way of indexing the shaft.
    Stuart
    Stuart, a HSS tool just seemed to skate. I don't have carbide, except boring bars. I should pick up some other brazed bits for this sort of situation. Yes cross-drilling for a pin is needed, so reducing the diameter makes sense. I have a belt sander and I'm not afraid to use it. Who said anything about looking good? (Actually with care you can do nice work with a belt.)

    Eskimo, thanks but the LPG one came up at an attractive price so I've grabbed it. Plus I like that's it's refillable and can also run on other common bottles. Those disposable bottles would get expensive I reckon. If I need more heat later I'll look at alternatives.

  4. #19
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    Jul 2010
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    Melbourne
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    Well you have a torch now no need to try a work-a-round.
    Don't forget pictures of the finished article.
    Stuart

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Cairns, Q
    Posts
    666

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    Jackaroo,

    Quote Originally Posted by jackaroo View Post
    Hi Dave, direct connection to the bottle, no regulator on the line, would this be ok?
    Primus were pretty well the first to go into the camping and handyman markets with portable gas appliances on refillable and re-usable cylinders. Their appliances were designed to run at full tank pressure without a regulator. Primus gas cylinders have a right hand thread female outlet on the cylinder, and Primus appliances have a right hand male thread to connect onto the cylinder. Since they were first into this market they set their own standard. I assume they used right hand threads because that is what most people were used to at the time.

    Most other later makers followed normal industrial practice for fuel gases with a left hand male thread on the cylinder outlet and left hand thread female connectors, usually using a regulator and low pressure appliances.

    The high pressure appliances tend to be noisier than the low pressure ones, but when they came out they were competing with kerosene and petrol blowlamps and pressure lamps where the noise level was similar.

    Frank

  6. #21
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    May 2010
    Location
    Lower Lakes SA
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    58
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    Stuart, I won't get hold of the torch for a couple of days. I was impatient and did some grinding today. Took ages and dulled two 40 grit belts taking a bit under 2mm off the diameter. Still hard as. Might wait for the torch after all. And yes, if I don't make a total hash of it I'll take some pics. I'm not documenting the build though because there's plenty of slotters on the web; mine's nothing special. And because it's so distracting to do.

    Frank, thanks for the info on gas fittings. Very useful to know.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    sydney ( st marys )
    Age
    64
    Posts
    4,887

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    If you have allready taken 2mm of yhe OD and its still hard,I would go for the option of a pice of Mild or H/T bar.

  8. #23
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    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
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    I'm with pipeclay, time to give up and buy some bar. Annealing temp could be anything from 770 to 900C, hold for 1 hour, then cool very slowly. (wheelie bin axles are 25mm I think)
    Stuart

  9. #24
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Lower Lakes SA
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    Thanks for the advice guys. I picked up some bright bar yesterday.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Age
    74
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    5,080

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    I'm with pipeclay, time to give up and buy some bar. Annealing temp could be anything from 770 to 900C, hold for 1 hour, then cool very slowly. (wheelie bin axles are 25mm I think)
    Stuart

    Hi Stuart,

    You don't need to hold it at that temp for an hour, just get it bright red (non-magnetic) and let it cool slowly.

    Regards
    Ray

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Hi RayG
    Good point, as Bryan doesn't want to reharden it over heating it should work.
    Stuart

  12. #27
    Dave J Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    (wheelie bin axles are 25mm I think) Stuart
    I take it you or your neighbors have to drag the wheelie bins out on pick up day. LOL

    Dave

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
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    lol
    Not so much of a wheelie bin.... just a bin
    Stuart

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