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Thread: Machining case hardened shaft
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31st Oct 2010, 11:43 PM #16Most Valued Member
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Have you tried turning the case off? If it's really hard you might not be able to. You're going to need to drill a hole at 90deg to the slot as well right? So turning the shaft down will fix that at the same time. I can't think of a way to make it by grinding the case off and having it look much good. Unless of course you have a surface grinder and a way of indexing the shaft.
Stuart
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1st Nov 2010, 07:37 AM #17Most Valued Member
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if the above at all tools doesnt work one of these would
https://www.alltools.com.au/shop/ind..._&_Welding_Kit
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1st Nov 2010, 09:22 AM #18Distracted Member
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Stuart, a HSS tool just seemed to skate. I don't have carbide, except boring bars. I should pick up some other brazed bits for this sort of situation. Yes cross-drilling for a pin is needed, so reducing the diameter makes sense. I have a belt sander and I'm not afraid to use it. Who said anything about looking good? (Actually with care you can do nice work with a belt.)
Eskimo, thanks but the LPG one came up at an attractive price so I've grabbed it. Plus I like that's it's refillable and can also run on other common bottles. Those disposable bottles would get expensive I reckon. If I need more heat later I'll look at alternatives.
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1st Nov 2010, 11:42 AM #19Most Valued Member
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Well you have a torch now no need to try a work-a-round.
Don't forget pictures of the finished article.
Stuart
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1st Nov 2010, 04:52 PM #20Golden Member
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Jackaroo,
Primus were pretty well the first to go into the camping and handyman markets with portable gas appliances on refillable and re-usable cylinders. Their appliances were designed to run at full tank pressure without a regulator. Primus gas cylinders have a right hand thread female outlet on the cylinder, and Primus appliances have a right hand male thread to connect onto the cylinder. Since they were first into this market they set their own standard. I assume they used right hand threads because that is what most people were used to at the time.
Most other later makers followed normal industrial practice for fuel gases with a left hand male thread on the cylinder outlet and left hand thread female connectors, usually using a regulator and low pressure appliances.
The high pressure appliances tend to be noisier than the low pressure ones, but when they came out they were competing with kerosene and petrol blowlamps and pressure lamps where the noise level was similar.
Frank
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1st Nov 2010, 09:17 PM #21Distracted Member
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Stuart, I won't get hold of the torch for a couple of days. I was impatient and did some grinding today. Took ages and dulled two 40 grit belts taking a bit under 2mm off the diameter. Still hard as. Might wait for the torch after all. And yes, if I don't make a total hash of it I'll take some pics. I'm not documenting the build though because there's plenty of slotters on the web; mine's nothing special. And because it's so distracting to do.
Frank, thanks for the info on gas fittings. Very useful to know.
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1st Nov 2010, 10:36 PM #22Most Valued Member
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If you have allready taken 2mm of yhe OD and its still hard,I would go for the option of a pice of Mild or H/T bar.
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1st Nov 2010, 11:25 PM #23Most Valued Member
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I'm with pipeclay, time to give up and buy some bar. Annealing temp could be anything from 770 to 900C, hold for 1 hour, then cool very slowly. (wheelie bin axles are 25mm I think)
Stuart
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3rd Nov 2010, 08:57 AM #24Distracted Member
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Thanks for the advice guys. I picked up some bright bar yesterday.
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3rd Nov 2010, 12:08 PM #25
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3rd Nov 2010, 01:01 PM #26Most Valued Member
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Hi RayG
Good point, as Bryan doesn't want to reharden it over heating it should work.
Stuart
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3rd Nov 2010, 01:35 PM #27Dave J Guest
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3rd Nov 2010, 04:42 PM #28Most Valued Member
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lol
Not so much of a wheelie bin.... just a bin
Stuart
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