Thread: Quick Change Toolpost Which Is Better

I so far have only used my eccentric diamond tool in the holder. It has a fairly heavy overhung part that tends to "sag" when the QCTP is released and then come up to level when the qctp is tightened. I had been making the height adjustments in the released position and then fine tuning it after noting the error. It was a bit of a PITA and not as easy as adjusting the height with the tool itself (with this particular tool design).

I have been using a vernier height guage to set the height ( It fitted in the box with the qctp!) which is a breeze. It actually makes it pretty easy when using shims on the old TP.

Dave has suggested that I make the height adjustment with the qctp almost tight and that seems to have merit. Havent tried it yet tho.

And thanks for the phots of the swarf guard- I had something similar in mind. A bit of cardboard is currently working ok 'tho!

Seeing that you didnt tell me what I was after,I will have to ask some questions.

1, when you first put an empty holder in do you let the Knurled wheel sit on to of the Tool Post or proud of it.

2, Do you tighten the long grub screw that holds the Knurled wheel washer and nut.

3,When you place a tool in the holder do you tighten it with all available grub screws.

4, After adjusting the tool to the correct centre height,do you insert the Allen key back into the Long grub screw,then take the correct size spanner and tighten the Nut and washer down untill they are tight on the Head of the Knurled wheel,whilst using the Allen key to ensure the long Grub screw dosent move.

As for "what I do". I am just having my first play with the thing and without an instruction manual.

So far I put the tool in the holder before fitting it to the post

Tightened all 4 grub screws

Put the holder on the post with the knurled nut in contact with the top of the post

made a rough height adjustment using the knurled nut

tightened the toolpost

the tool then changes height (note that i have not yet tried the trick from Dave J of partially tightening) (goes UP)

mutter under my breath

note the error c/w centre height ( I use a vernier guage off the top of the cross-slide)

adjust again

Then holding the allen screw with a key to prevent rotation then tighten the hex nut.

I wonder having read your post whether I am doing it right. I presume that you are adjusting the height with the allen screw? with the toolpost tight or nearly so?

Russ

Hi Russ,
I think you will find doing the height adjustment when with it's partially tight will fix your troubles as it wont move as much if at all when you tighten it.
I usually start with the tool holder a bit low with it done up firm and turn the knurled knob to drag it up to the height gauge, that way I can have it a little tighter because I have the mechanical advantage of the thread to pull it up. Then once it is set on height there is no movement when tightening it completely as it is already pretty well tight and seated on the ways of the tool post.
When you get used to it and work out a technique that suits you it will become easier, it took me a bit to get used to mine over the standard tool post as this is the first one I have owned.

Just a tip,
For safety I would lock the holder in the tool post at what ever height setting to put in a tool, or change one over, you could do them in the vise but it might mark them. HSS and other tools can be really sharp and it only takes one slip if you hold it in your hand (Just ask me how I know that LOL). As you do need to do them up reasonably tight so they stay put and it's easier if they are held by something.

With the dollar being higher than the US dollar, it would be a good time to stock up on additional holders if you need them.

Dave

I dont adjust with the Long grubscrew,but I do tighten that before I load a tool.

My 960 is the same as Russ's...has just a stud tapped into the slide (Fabrication date says July 2010)

now what to do?

Russ do you have pics of what you actually did to get the AXA to fit?

Any ideas ..anyone.... on how or would be best way to fit an BXA.....

I have one of each..so which do I fit...probably the bxa and on sell the axa with the "lathe out of the box"

I will take some photos today.

Blast!
I've just come in from the shed and cleaned up but forgot to take your photos.

The summary of what I did is as follows

I made a stud with one end threaded to suit the topslide but not long enough to go all the way through. The top of the stud suited the axa
.

I then inserted a hex socket grub screw into the bottom of the topside and tightened it against the bottom of the new stud. Acts to lock the threads.

I also made some sleeves so that I could drop the 4 way post back on if I wanted.

I am generally happy with the axa and find that the only rigidity problem is a tendency for it to turn on the topslide (as it is no longer indexed). That seems to be cured with a sheet of writing paper under the axa.

I expect that the bxa would have the same issues.

I will try to remember the photos next time I'm allowed out to the shed.

You shouldn't be having problems with the tool post turning. I would check the base of the tool post and the top of the compound to see if either are convex.
My compound has the standard T slot so there is less surface area than on yours and I have no trouble with it turning if it's done up tight.

Dave

It doesnt seem to be convex and IS ok when done up tight but better with just a gentle "nip" with the paper under

Here are the photos.

HI,
Thats odd about the Rigidity Rfurzer I don't have any Problems and I do not use any Paper between the Toolpost (QCTP) and the Topslide. I did have a Problem initially though when I tightened the QCTP up with the Supplied Nut directly onto the Top of the QCTP the QCTP had a tendency to be dragged around slightly. I solved this Problem quickly by using the Washer that came with the Original Toolpost between the supplied Nut and the top of the QCTP this immediatly eliminated the drag. My QCTP isn't indexed.

Looking at Your Photos Rfurzer it appears that You don't have a Washer between the the Nut and the top of Your QCTP - it is a bit hard to tell from the Photo so I could be wrong. Assuming You don't have a Washer fitted I would suggest using either the washer supplied with the original Toolpost or an ordinary Washer - perhaps a high tensile one at that.

I know My QCTP had the tendency to drag when initially tightening it up. I don't know if it also had this problem when it use, because I hadn't used it very long before I fitted the original washer.

What I have written may not be Your Problem at all, but it is somewhere to start.

thanks Russ

Hello rfurzer,
I still use the 4 way toolholder which came with my lathe(AL330A) and I have put a Phosphor bronze washer between the toolpost and the tightening lever (which is only 110mm long). I don't have any trouble with the toolpost turning as I tighten or slipping while in use.

Russell (another one)

Thank you for the project qctp eskimo
QCTP 001.pdf (48.8 KB, 207 views)

Hi Robochip
I have been using the AXA for years now. Never wish that I had something bigger. Havent got a photo immediately to hand but its pretty self-explanatory.

General advice - the topslide on my machine did not have a T-slot for the tool post, instead having a through-tapped hole for a stud. I'm not sure is this is an individual oddity on my machine, but did mean that I had to be a bit creative with fitting the toolpost.

I did not use the stud/post that came with the chinese AXA copy, instead turned up a part myself. A sleeve allows using the original 4-way post if I want (never have). I then used a hex-socket grub screw (a big one) from under the top slide to lock the new stud in the hole. The grub screw and the stud introduced from opposite directions lock the thread.

I have bought lots of tool holders since - the ones that hold a boring tool and a standard one (250-102) are the best value.