Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 17

Thread: lathe height

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Athelstone, SA 5076
    Posts
    4,258

    Default lathe height

    I must be going bonkers...i thought I posted this yesterday...seniors moments come thick and fast some days

    is there a standard way of determining the bench height for a metal lathe

    I know its something to do with your elbows for a wood lathe ..but what about a metal lathes

    I'm getting courageous and will need to make/borrow/beg or steal a bench/stand or what ever if I'm going to get it out of the box

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    68
    Posts
    1,374

    Default

    No standards as far as I'm aware. I made mine so that I have the cross-slide wheel slightly below elbow height (about 2") on the premise that that's the most used control on the lathe. On my 960B that leaves the 2nd most used controls (feed lever and half-nut lever) about 3-4" below elbow height.

    I've done that with both my lathes and it seems to be the best compromise between too low - in which case you end up with backache - and too high in which case it's a pain to change chucks.

    I also use a thick oil resistant rubber mat with perforations in it in front of the lathe, a lot easier on the feet in extended periods working and most of the swarf ends up down the holes and not on the bottom of my boots. This was a none-too-gentle suggestion from the keeper of the domestic funds after I tracked oily steel into the house one night.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Athelstone, SA 5076
    Posts
    4,258

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gavin Newman View Post
    This was a none-too-gentle suggestion from the keeper of the domestic funds after I tracked oily steel into the house one night.
    I know exactly what you mean...gee they can be loud when they want to be eh?

  4. #4
    Dave J Guest

    Default

    You did post it up yesterday, it's in the HSS or carbide thread on post 71.
    So it's not a seniors moment, lol
    I have mine setup like Gavins, The cross feed handle is about 2 inch's below elbow height. I have read where people suggest elbow height, I think that would be to high for a 12x36 but might work on a smaller lathe with a lower centre height.


    Dave

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,088

    Default

    You did post it yesterday
    http://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/ne...31/index5.html

    "eskimo You don't normally do as much arm work with a metal lathe so I would say, the smaller the lathe the higher the bench(within reason), so that you aren't bending over it all the time."

    Stuart

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Athelstone, SA 5076
    Posts
    4,258

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave J View Post
    You did post it up yesterday, it's in the HSS or carbide thread on post 71.
    you sure I posted that..nah could'nt have been me.... I would remember...
    thanks Guys...hahahahaha

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Bendigo Victoria
    Age
    80
    Posts
    7,471

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gavin Newman View Post

    I also use a thick oil resistant rubber mat with perforations in it in front of the lathe, a lot easier on the feet in extended periods working and most of the swarf ends up down the holes and not on the bottom of my boots. This was a none-too-gentle suggestion from the keeper of the domestic funds after I tracked oily steel into the house one night.
    If I walked in to the house with oily boots, I would have a high pitched voice by now!

    Boots are taken off in the laundry, whether I come in from the shed or from the property, tractor etc.

    Agree about the rubber mat, slowly getting them in place in front of all the most used machines, metal lathe, mill, wood lathe, drill press etc.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Lower Lakes SA
    Age
    58
    Posts
    2,607

    Default Ergonomics

    I went to buy some rubber matting the other day. I had a hell of a time finding anyone in a hardware shop with a clue about 'anti-fatigue matting'. Finally someone said Clark Rubber and it costs the earth. One of the bigger shops near me (Tru Value I think, used to be Home Hware) had a reasonable range of rubber matting, but not much idea. I settled for some fairly thin chequerplate stuff. It was 'only' about $36/m @ 1200 wide. I got a 2 metre strip to go between my lathe and bench. I think it helps a lot despite being thin, though I haven't done a long stretch at the lathe since. I was wary of thick stuff being a tripping hazard, aside from the cost.

    I'm interested in views on the height issue also. I'm planning to modify my lathe stand so it can be bolted down as well as adjusted. I'll build in some more height too. I figure if I can operate all controls without stooping it's ok. As I'm nearly 6' 5", it needs to come up a fair bit. Maybe another 120, on top of the 150 it's already been blocked up. Must have been built by a dwarf. (No offence to short people. Their mothers love 'em. )

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,088

    Default

    I find myself torn, a certain chain of stores sells Rubber floor mats 1530x920x12mm for $55. They do tend to pick up swarf very well, but they are comfy.

    Or you could make yourself a duck board
    http://www.housetohome.co.uk/imageBank/d/duck-board.jpg
    not sure they would be as comfy.

    Stuart

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Bendigo Victoria
    Age
    80
    Posts
    7,471

    Default

    I use these, have a duckboard in front of the wood lathe and it has one of these on as well. They are very comfortable and insulates your feet from the cold concrete.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    66
    Posts
    108

    Default

    Ok, here is a story, I went to Chandler markets here in Brisbane a while ago and bought 1 meter square x 12 mm thick rubber mats , made from recycled car tyres at $8.00 each, the other day I walked in one of the well known rubber stores and saw what looked exactly the same rubber mat for $79.95, I think some one is getting riped off, unfrikingbelivable.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Newcastle NSW
    Age
    77
    Posts
    155

    Default

    Bryan,
    I read a suggestion somewhere to put spacers between the lathe and the swarf tray to make it easier to remove the swarf (If you don't have a removable tray).
    I wish I had read it before I set my lathe up, it's a mongrel to clean the swarf out. If you need to raise the lathe, that may be the best way to do it.
    Regards,
    Russell

  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    rural s.a.
    Posts
    120

    Default

    Hi Bryan & all,
    I'm still setting up my workshop (slowly, slowly) but the mats that I will probably use are the ones I have seen at Parramounts, (for south aussies). Last time I saw them they were $50.00 & fairly large. About 1200mm X 2400mm & were full of holes about 25mm in diam.

    Ian.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    68
    Posts
    1,374

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tinkera View Post
    Hi Bryan & all,
    I'm still setting up my workshop (slowly, slowly) but the mats that I will probably use are the ones I have seen at Parramounts, (for south aussies). Last time I saw them they were $50.00 & fairly large. About 1200mm X 2400mm & were full of holes about 25mm in diam.

    Ian.
    The Paramount ones the ones I use too and they are good. They have the normal black ones and some light brown mats that are oil-resistant. Just remember that they don't work very well in front of a welding bench - guess how I know.......

  15. #15
    Dave J Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rusty steel View Post
    Bryan,
    I read a suggestion somewhere to put spacers between the lathe and the swarf tray to make it easier to remove the swarf (If you don't have a removable tray).
    I wish I had read it before I set my lathe up, it's a mongrel to clean the swarf out. If you need to raise the lathe, that may be the best way to do it.
    Regards,
    Russell
    I have read that one as well, it's a good idea for these lathes.
    I wish I had of done that instead of raising the cabinets, the swarf is a pain to get to.
    I have a new stand planned and have got the steel, but not sure when I will get around to building it.

    Dave

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •