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  1. #706
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    Forget my last post if you saw it RC. Worked it out myself.
    Though why the curve? wouldnt two points that the bottom be better?

    Also, did you think about clamping it between/to 1,2,3 blocks?

    Stuart

  2. #707
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    Here you go Stuart, this is where I borrowed the idea from.

    How To Check A Block For Squareness - YouTube

    The 1,2,3 blocks I have are a bit small for this block, plus are an unknown quantity when it comes to squareness..

    Also I was just wanting to see how good I could get it, the side with the two lapped feet is actually according to the indicator dead nuts on...

    I think the curve is better for this sort of application as you are rolling the indicator onto the work.... With the ball method or two point method with a 1 micron indicator I found just hitting the work against the dial gauge with that bit too much force moved the indicator that smidgen amount and stuffed the readings up...

    With this precision you need consistency, even down to where you hold the block for rolling, hold it too high and I was inadvertantly pushing the top in just that small amount according to the indicator...

    I also checked with my tesatast 0.0001 test indicator and went very close to confirming what the dial indicator was telling me...
    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

  3. #708
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    All clear now. The dreaded repeatability. Got to get me one of those stands one of these days but they do seem to go for big money for what they are.

    Thank you

    Stuart

  4. #709
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    Quote Originally Posted by .RC. View Post
    I used my cheap import $30 1 micron indicator to do the measuring....
    Calling a Tesa gauge a "cheap import" is almost unforgivable (assuming your using the Tesa in your photos).. I am sure some clocks in Switzerland just skipped a second.

    That Youtube video is excellent. Very informative. I had forgotten about "tool and die guy". I am going to check some of my 1-2-3 blocks for squareness using the same technique..

  5. #710
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    Quote Originally Posted by simonl View Post
    Hi Michael,

    I just had a look at that web site. All the spindle parts show the same picture. I'm confused! To make a D1-4 adapter for the RT (same as Stuart) what do I need, cam, camscrew or camstud?


    Cheers,


    Simon
    The photos are confusing. I was looking last night for an exploded view of a camlock chuck but couldn't find one. You'll just have to imagine that what I've drawn is understandable
    On the chuck there is a pin prevented from rotating with a screw. In the spindle (or adapter) is a cam, retained with a detent which in turn is held in with a spring and screw. The parts that Mac-it make are the pin, cam, detent and screw. The taper on the spindle does the locating and the pins lock it in place. If you thought the locking into place was too complex, you could probably get away with a part that was just the locating taper plus relief holes for the chuck pins use strap clamps to hold the chuck down. You could perhaps use some split cotters as well to clamp the pins.
    I bought my small parts because I had an "official" drawing from one of the standards for a D1-3 set up (which is what I have) and there are lots of subtleties to those parts. It was probably over kill on my part and others have successfully made these bits.

    Scan (Large).jpg
    Michael
    Last edited by Michael G; 5th Feb 2013 at 01:14 PM. Reason: spelling

  6. #711
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    Quote Originally Posted by variant22 View Post
    Calling a Tesa gauge a "cheap import" is almost unforgivable
    Well it is an import and it was cheap..... I think Swiss Quality Discount made an error when he listed it on ebay, and forgot to put a 0 on the end of the auction..

    Brand spanking new it is, cannot quite remember the price now... but was $20 or $30 or something like that...
    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

  7. #712
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    Quote Originally Posted by .RC. View Post
    Well it is an import and it was cheap..... I think Swiss Quality Discount made an error when he listed it on ebay, and forgot to put a 0 on the end of the auction..

    Brand spanking new it is, cannot quite remember the price now... but was $20 or $30 or something like that...
    Nice find! I could really do with a Tesa micron dial indicator. I checked Swiss Quality Discount and found a bunch of their items were not in stock (at least that is what the checkout reports). I was going to grab a micron Tesa or .002mm Interapid to test the waters. Even their levels are marked as out of stock in the checkout.

    With respect to the Youtube video you mentioned, did you hack up a test indicator stand to put the half circle into the base?

  8. #713
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    Hi RC,
    Been thinking more about your block.
    When you say you "Then measure it up and lap the corresponding side until you get it square..." how did you lap it?

    Couldnt you work out how much has to come off and bang it back on the surface grinder and take it off? maybe a couple of checks on the way, should get you damn close.

    Or is that what you did? or am I missing something again?

    Stuart
    Last edited by Stustoys; 6th Feb 2013 at 02:33 PM. Reason: just a little thread edit :)

  9. #714
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Hi RC,
    Been thinking more about your block.
    When you say you "Then measure it up and lap the corresponding side until you get it square..." how did you lap it?

    Couldnt you work out how much has to come off and bang it back on the surface grinder and take it off? maybe a couple of checks on the way, should get you damn close.
    Yea you could do it that way if you trust the downfeed on your surface grinder.... I only had to take off around 0.007mm which as we all learned back in October 2011 it is only 0.002mm away from getting poo on your finger, wiping it off and smelling it I just used a stone to lap away the amount until it was right, took about 10-15 minutes I guess...
    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

  10. #715
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    As some of you know I have the e-luddite's version of CNC in my shed which I recently modified so that I could use it on my 40 taper mill (http://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/yo...ml#post1591450).
    The other day I used it to make some side plates for a micrometer. I have a soft spot for the digital counter types - easier on my eyes without having to worry about batteries. I bought a second hand one on eBay recently -
    mike2.jpgmike.jpg
    Pretty grotty condition and missing the side plates. The counter was also 0.03mm out. As the screw was tight in one place every revolution I'm guessing that it was dropped, bending the screw and jarring the counter.
    I took it apart, cleaned it up and reset the counter and apart from that stiff spot it looked alright. The last thing it needed was some new side plates. Genuine Mitutoyo parts would probably cost me more than the mike was worth (I paid $20 for it by the way) so after thinking about it, I used the Volstro. It gives me new respect for the software that works out CNC machine tool paths as it took me several attempts to get my head around getting the offsets right. (It didn't help that I used a cutter 6mm in diameter that was labelled 5mm on the box...)
    P1010587 (Medium).JPG
    I still need to get some small brass screws and attach the plates but I think it worked out well.

    Michael

  11. #716
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Nice Michael

    I am yet to check you tube but is there a chance of a vid of the volstro in action next time? How about i check the tube first.....no luck.
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  12. #717
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    (It didn't help that I used a cutter 6mm in diameter that was labelled 5mm on the box...)
    Should you also put this in what I learnt today.

  13. #718
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    Michutoyo?

    My latest proof of concept(or half finished project if you like )
    A vacuum DTI base made from a navara rear wheel bearing and the suction cup from a phone car kit.
    Seems to work well enough but as I've never used a real one I wouldnt know. I'm really not sure what the point is as my height gauge or a mag base on a 2 4 6 block seem to work just as well. I'd think the radius is to small to work well rolling on to the work piece??

    Not sure yet if I will pretty it up a little as is and use mag bases on it or drill and tap for mounting the bars straight to it.

    Stuart
    Attached Images Attached Images

  14. #719
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    (It didn't help that I used a cutter 6mm in diameter that was labelled 5mm on the box...)
    That's something I would do! I'm glad it's not just me that does stuff like that. It's funny how it's always a larger cutter used by accident, never a smaller one. I guess it's similar to dropping the margarine lid on the floor, it always ends up face down!

    Looking good Michael,

  15. #720
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    As some of you know I have the e-luddite's version of CNC in my shed which I recently modified so that I could use it on my 40 taper mill (http://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/yo...ml#post1591450).
    The other day I used it to make some side plates for a micrometer. I have a soft spot for the digital counter types - easier on my eyes without having to worry about batteries. I bought a second hand one on eBay recently -
    mike2.jpgmike.jpg
    Pretty grotty condition and missing the side plates. The counter was also 0.03mm out. As the screw was tight in one place every revolution I'm guessing that it was dropped, bending the screw and jarring the counter.
    I took it apart, cleaned it up and reset the counter and apart from that stiff spot it looked alright. The last thing it needed was some new side plates. Genuine Mitutoyo parts would probably cost me more than the mike was worth (I paid $20 for it by the way) so after thinking about it, I used the Volstro. It gives me new respect for the software that works out CNC machine tool paths as it took me several attempts to get my head around getting the offsets right. (It didn't help that I used a cutter 6mm in diameter that was labelled 5mm on the box...)
    P1010587 (Medium).JPG
    I still need to get some small brass screws and attach the plates but I think it worked out well.

    Michael
    Nice find for $20.
    I have the identical mic, mind you it has side plates and has never been dropped, but I paid a damn site more than you did
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