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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Ballina N.S.W.
    Posts
    644

    Default

    Hi Pipeclay,
    Thanks for your advise, I have checked my head stock alignment and done the short bar test previously. I also have a short 12'' by 1'' bar that I have turned true between centres. My headstock is held down with four bolts.As can be seen by the original photos this longer larger diameter bar has turned true over its entire length and I have marked the position of the number one chuck jaw position, if I place it in the chuck in the correct position and use a centre,then use a dial indicator on it does this not achieve the same result?
    Regards Bob

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    near Rockhampton
    Posts
    6,216

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dingo Dog View Post
    .RC

    What lathe did u purchase to replace the one you sold. Is it 3 phase or single phase. Looking to upgrade my lathe is all.

    DD
    it is a 430X1700 7.5hp drive motor about two tonnes in weight.. About a middle of the road quality machine.. Fairly pricey but nothing more than an overseas holiday or what a person would pay for a quality new small car that only lasts a few years..

    clickable thumbnail


  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    sydney ( st marys )
    Age
    64
    Posts
    4,887

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by krisfarm View Post
    Hi Pipeclay,
    Thanks for your advise, I have checked my head stock alignment and done the short bar test previously. I also have a short 12'' by 1'' bar that I have turned true between centres. My headstock is held down with four bolts.As can be seen by the original photos this longer larger diameter bar has turned true over its entire length and I have marked the position of the number one chuck jaw position, if I place it in the chuck in the correct position and use a centre,then use a dial indicator on it does this not achieve the same result?
    Regards Bob
    The repeatability of the 3 jaw chuck is a big ?.

    The only way that I have ever set a tailstock back on centre is to use a bar between centres.

    Not saying that your method wouldnt work,its just as far as I am aware not normal practice.

    Have been out of the trade for a few years now so things may of changed.

    If you use the bar between centres you can also utilize it for setting tapers.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Ballina N.S.W.
    Posts
    644

    Default

    Pipeclay,
    Thanks for your reply, I will check it out between centres the next time I have the chuck off, I normal do use that method but thought this method should work as well as long as I index the chuck and workpiece and the bar is parallel. I am just trying to save a bit of time checking my alignment after I move my lathe.
    Regards Bob

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,088

    Default

    The dial indictor is set up at centre height already. Couldn't you, check the error on the chuck, turn the chuck until the dial reads on the middle point, then move along and check the tail stock. Maybe not prefect but it would be pretty close, of course it would depend on what YOU think of as pretty close. Or am I missing something?

    Stuart

    P.S. my mill shuold be here tomorrow

  6. #21
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Lower Lakes SA
    Age
    58
    Posts
    2,607

    Default

    Took a break from building the power hacksaw to commission my milling attachment. I'd welded up an angle bracket out of 130 x 16. Of course it distorted and when I tightened the bolts the cross slide would bind. Took it to the local machinist for doctoring last week, got it back today. Problem solvered. Finally, I can do some milling! There's no vertical feed as yet, except by loosening the T-screws and sliding the vise, but it's still a Great Leap Forward from clamping stuff in the toolpost. Cunningly (if I say so myself) I've placed the 6 mount holes on a perfect grid so I've got lots of options. This bracket will be the basis for several attachments I'm planning. I'm certainly happy with the rigidity so far. A better vise is on the shopping list though. And a collet chuck, and.....

  7. #22
    Dave J Guest

    Default

    Not sure if you have thought of it but, you can bolt the compound to that bracket to give you a vertical slide. Then make up another bracket to mount the vice to the compound.
    Dave

  8. #23
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Lower Lakes SA
    Age
    58
    Posts
    2,607

    Default

    Thanks DaveJ, yes I thought of it, but for reasons I won't bore everyone with here, the conversion is not straightforward in my case. I might ask advice on that in another thread sometime.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    23

    Default Here's one I've just finished

    This is the Argus double acting oscillator from 'The best of Model Engineer - vol 1' Still needs to be mounted on a plinth etc. Very happy as the last time I touched a lathe was in high school back in the 70's


    I'm based in Bayswater, Western Australia and am using the combined AL60 Lathe/Mill from Hare and Forbes

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Australind , WA
    Age
    58
    Posts
    1,277

    Default

    Nice work Pete.
    I've never attempted a model steam engine, but I guess it gave you a great sense of achievement when you finished it.

    Sterob

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,088

    Default

    This is my latest. Made from a kit of stock and plans from ebay. As you can see it isn't finished yet. Shame it doesnt work . I have a couple of ideas to try and get it working.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    23

    Default

    HI Sterob,

    Once it runs it is a great feeling. However I think there was enough in the scrap box after this first engine to have probably made a second. What you are seeing in the final product is the third cylinder, second set of cylinder covers and glands and I believe a whole lot of errors cancelling each other out

    Initially needed around 20psi to work but now that it has run for a bit it is happy on only 4-5psi.

    Currently making a horisontal mill engine and it that also turns out OK will possibly try a locomotive for a third machine - possibly the 'Blowfly' which has the simplest mechanics of all the engines I have seen.

    Regards

    Pete
    Last edited by WA Pete; 26th Jul 2010 at 11:10 AM. Reason: I need to type slower :)

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    23

    Default Suum Cirque

    Here's the parts I have made for Suum Cirque, from the 'Best of Model Engineer - vol 1'
    All just about done except the base plate drilling and assembly.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,088

    Default

    Thats coming along nicely WA Pete. Is the cyclinder cast? The valve face is on the top of the cyclinder as we are looking at it I assume?

    Stuart

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Nth Qld
    Posts
    687

    Default

    Here's a photo of a 16x30mm nameplate I made for some guy in WA for his model steam engine:


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