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  1. #2671
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Finland
    Age
    46
    Posts
    117

    Default

    I made this square tube bender about two years ago.

    FB_IMG_1637950499529.jpg

    Used it to make this referee's chair.

    FB_IMG_1637950507781.jpg

    FB_IMG_1637950513032.jpg FB_IMG_1637950518268.jpg

  2. #2672
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    1,656

    Default

    That's pretty snazzy would love to see it's construction

  3. #2673
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Finland
    Age
    46
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    117

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by China View Post
    That's pretty snazzy would love to see it's construction
    Its basically just a pile of plates bolt together.

    IMG_20211126_142555.jpg 1.jpg

  4. #2674
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    moonbi nsw Aus
    Age
    69
    Posts
    364

    Default

    That design for bending RHS looks real good. Do you have some drawings you could share on the Forum? I have been going to make one for some time but haven't come across any details of one
    Just do it!

    Kind regards Rod

  5. #2675
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Finland
    Age
    46
    Posts
    117

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by chambezio View Post
    That design for bending RHS looks real good. Do you have some drawings you could share on the Forum? I have been going to make one for some time but haven't come across any details of one
    Sorry. I didn't made any plans or drawings. Its more like protoype, that worked that well that i didn't bother to make another one.

  6. #2676
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Revesby - Sydney Australia
    Age
    56
    Posts
    1,185

    Default Random steel things

    1) Some random steel on a pallet on a nature strip:
    IMG_2188.jpg
    I'm guessing the blue angle with holes in the middle are supports (feet?) for some racking. The red ones are a strange mystery. I might use them as hangers.


    2) A new spanner. A member sold me a nice ER32 chuck/holder, but its spanner flats are about 41.8mm – wider than my regular adjustable spanner. My other ER32 holders have 36mm flats. Considered milling/grinding 3mm off each side, but decided a new spanner was best.

    The only tool I had that would fit it is this old thing on the left:
    IMG_2254.jpg

    but I did find a home-made spanner from L.J.D.'s skip bin that was close (41ish mm).
    So, some quick precision milling:
    IMG_2255.jpg IMG_2256.jpg IMG_2258.jpg
    I started with HSS, but it was just rubbing. This thing was actually hardened!
    The side of my one and only carbide end mill did the job.
    Interestingly, one original flat was straight, but the other one was a little angled, causing the tip of the spanner to be tighter than the back side.


    3) Vintage engine guy is in a hurry to bore several Austin 7 engine blocks. He needs a few extra boring machine setting blocks (they hold 1/4" round carbide cutters, with a screw to set the depth), to easily go through 1st, 2nd and final cuts.
    Wants them to be from good steel (hardened and ground). So, I look through the scrap. Nothing flat except bright mild, and some guillotine blades. The former won't harden, the latter is already hard


    Try to temper the blades:
    IMG_2242.jpg

    The one on the left was too thick to heat properly, and only half of the other one got soft, but that is enough to start with. Bandsaw a few little chunks off:
    IMG_2243.jpg

    mount in vice on mill, and square up the cuts:
    IMG_2247.jpg IMG_2248.jpg IMG_2251.jpg

    The samples on the left show the 5 holes and 3 threads I will have to machine.
    Think about setting up for them, but decide to reduce thickness close to target size first.
    Nearly 1mm milled off with sad old brazed carbide cutter that came with this RF30:
    IMG_2252.jpg
    (although sadly, somehow, I took a bit too much off one – it is now 9 or 10thou undersize).

    Set up for the first hole - the 1/4" for the cutter. An end stop on the side of the vice, and line up a 1/4" end mill in the sample's hole. Then lock table in position, and spot drill:
    IMG_2257.jpg IMG_2262.jpg IMG_2263.jpg


    Then I drilled down at 1/4", and checked the location of the hole, corrected that, and used the 1/4 end mill to bore the bottom flat and the sides closer to size. But no photos, so that is a tale for another day
    Last edited by nigelpearson; 2nd Dec 2021 at 09:31 PM. Reason: missing attachments

  7. #2677
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Athelstone, SA 5076
    Posts
    4,255

    Default Machinists hammers.

    Made these to give away...have no idea how they will stand up
    20211210_152408.jpg
    20211210_152432.jpg

    The steel was parkerised.

    The recipients wont get any warranty iether...lol

  8. #2678
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    They look great !!

    Steve

  9. #2679
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    7,183

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nigelpearson View Post
    .
    .
    A new spanner. A member sold me a nice ER32 chuck/holder, but its spanner flats are about 41.8mm – wider than my regular adjustable spanner. My other ER32 holders have 36mm flats. Considered milling/grinding 3mm off each side, but decided a new spanner was best.

    The only tool I had that would fit it is this old thing on the left:
    One of the most useful spanners I have in my shed for use on machinery etc is this Eclipse wide mouth adjustable.
    As well as a wide mouth, it has long, narrow jaws and gets into places that many other large spanners cannot.
    This one is 300mm in length
    Screen Shot 2021-12-10 at 6.18.14 pm.png
    I also have the smaller (150mm) version for my electronics bench - really useful for reaching into electronics enclosures for holding nuts on the backs of glands, switches etc.

    Teh large one is also good for large plumbing fixtures.

  10. #2680
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
    Posts
    6,446

    Default

    Good morning BobL,

    I whole heartedly agree with you.

    I have a similar Eclipse adjustable spanner bought as one of a a set of three. It varies to yours as the jaws are fat where yours has slim jaws.

    These spanners are of far better quality than the average ones, specifically being made to closer tolerances than many others.
    The black satin chrome finish resists rust much better than the shiny chrome equivalent..

    Believe it or not, in our area , a bright chromed spanner of lower quality, hung up on a shadow board and left for 12 months will show rust on its exposed side.

    It is because the cheaper tools have a very thin coating of chrome.

    I am impressed with the Eclipse shifta because even the plastic / rubber sleeve handle has lasted a decade and not yet decomposed into chewing gum .

    Many of my other tools with handles of this similar type of materials have succumbed to the local climate or atmosphere and degraded into a sticky hard to remove gum.

    I bought the set locally at McGinns which was a large tool, enginneering outfit and selling goods mainly serving the mining and sugar farming community sadly long gone and that is a shame .

    So many these days can't recognise the difference between a good and lousy adjustable spanner.

    It says to me that at the time of their manufacture ,Eclipse were applying and maintaining a high set of specification for these spanners.

    Yes they cost a few bucks more but have borne the test of time really well and well justified those extra dollars spent.

    Grahame

  11. #2681
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    505

    Default

    The Eclipse adjustable spanner having a well fitted moving jaw AND a millimetre scale can be very useful. The other day I was on a mate's moored boat with a little Yanmar diesel, helping him adjust the ancient prop shaft gland with mangled locknut that was dripping water fast. Unless the engine comes out this gland can only be reached with one arm outstretched, and seen with only one eye. Using his Eclipse wrench like the one shown by BobL I was able to measure the nut across what remains of the flats (about 55mm across), then reach in with a pre-adjusted pipe wrench and free up the locknut, so Eclipse saved the day for us, because even if I had taken a caliper it could not have been lined up and read to get the measurement, and too hard to adjust the pipe wrench in place (tried that). Admittedly not an every day situation, but we were so pleased to get a result.
    Bill

  12. #2682
    Join Date
    Jul 2021
    Location
    Adelaide, South Australia
    Age
    33
    Posts
    28

    Default Soft jaws

    Made myself and my Dad a set of soft jaws for our Record vices out of some left over 3/8" Aluminium plate I had. Cut them out with a hacksaw, filed them square, then drilled the mounting holes with Dad's drill press. Did some final fitting once they were mounted. Turned out alright; almost too nice to use them!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  13. #2683
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,443

    Default

    Hi GrandFooBar, Guys,

    Happy New Year all !

    Nice pictures, I hope you have made him a spare set !

    I found that mine very rapidly became dented and malformed, particularly gripping screws and filing slots. Well I'm sure you know what I mean. Mine are are loose covers so I can remove them easily when not needed, when I remember to...
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  14. #2684
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Athelstone, SA 5076
    Posts
    4,255

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tuomas Soikkeli View Post
    N

    Here temperature can go -30 degrees of celsius
    there is not a lot of heat at -30.....we got to +40 new years day...dats what I call drinking weather

    thats the 3rd time I watched that clip and it still amazes me as to your skills...

  15. #2685
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Revesby - Sydney Australia
    Age
    56
    Posts
    1,185

    Default

    1) Finished up the "fake nails."


    250 of the little ones, cut on a lathe with ground HSS for the profile, then drilled the back to fit a nail, and welded some nails in:
    IMG_2171.jpg IMG_2182.jpgIMG_2172.jpg

    The 15 larger nail heads were a but more interesting. It was too much work to turn them out of solid, so I machine a die to press 3mm steel into, rough out a punch, and try in a 10tonne press:
    IMG_2153.jpg IMG_2159.jpg IMG_2160.jpg IMG_2161.jpg IMG_2162.jpg

    A bit of tearing there. The bottom of the punch was too wide/flat, so refined that in the lathe. There was also a bit of a point in the bottom where I centre-drilled the die:
    IMG_2164.jpg

    Applied a Dremel like tool to smooth that out:
    IMG_2163.jpg

    Then cut some discs, and practice some pressing skills:
    IMG_2165.jpg IMG_2166.jpg IMG_2168.jpg IMG_2169.jpg

    Of course, the back of these aren't flat enough, so machine a buck to press them into, and carefully turn them off:
    IMG_2183.jpg
    Then they had big nails welded in the back. Some of them also had a texture/pattern Dremel'd into them.


    The end result of many hours. Of course, they all needed to have a rusty patina:
    IMG_2187.jpg IMG_2193.jpg




    2) Finished up the piston boring machine tool setting blocks.

    Drill to 4.0, use a combined drill/tap (slowly) in the mill to start threading, and finish off by hand:
    IMG_2280.jpg IMG_2282.jpg IMG_2284.jpg
    Same thing on the other side for the depth setting screw locks:
    IMG_2285.jpg IMG_2286.jpg
    (a variety of configurations there for different cutting depths)

    Then, trim some of the blocks to size, surface grind them to the same width:
    IMG_2287.jpg IMG_2299.jpg


    and do some hardening. Most in oil, one in water:
    IMG_2300.jpg



    3) Air blow nozzle repair.

    One time when using it, the plastic protector on the blow nozzle went flying off, never to be seen again.
    I grabbed an old moulded power plug, took the pins out, drilled through where the cord went, and shoved it on my nozzle:
    IMG_2301.jpg IMG_2302.jpg





    4) Lathe knurling tool adaptation.

    Old lathe tools are always way too big to fit in modern QCTP holders. Here is one beside my 16mm holder:
    IMG_2454.jpg

    My neighbour needs to do some knurning fast. His holders accept 20mm. I need to quickly mill 9mm off. Clamping the thing was a challenge. Not parallel, and kept slipping:
    IMG_2456.jpg IMG_2457.jpg IMG_2458.jpg



    5) Got some goodies from a friend:
    IMG_2478.jpg

    Among them was an unfinished parallel. Cast i-beam style.
    Looks like it was roughly milled, then hardened. Time to finish it:
    IMG_2473.jpg IMG_2480.jpg IMG_2481.jpg

    but slow going. The steel keeps heating up, and then the wheel cuts too deep, digs in, burns.

    Tomorrow's task.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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