Thread: Your latest project

Bob T,
You are welcome to any of my work,just which one were you looking at. Face Plate photo 292,Belt Sander photo 300 or 8" Grinder photos 281/282.They all work fairly well.
Bob

Sorry Bob,

I foolishly omitted the "8 inch".

Bob T

Bob T
That grinder table works OK for me, you just have to make sure you make the slot in the support arm long enough to achieve the degree of positive and negative angles that you need. One thing I did do that you cannot see in the photos, is the heavy washers that are on the thread ends of the adjusting bolts have a short pin fitted into them adjacent to the thread to locate the washer/nut and stop it from turning, you have to drill a matching hole for this pin in the lower position, the non slotted hole. On the top washer the pin locates in the groove. I hope my description makes sense to you, if not I can take a picture for you. It makes adjusting very easy as you only need a spanner on the bolt head.I undercut the table top 45 degrees adjacent to the grinding wheel only as this is all the angle tha I felt was needed.
Bob

Bob,

I've got the drift. I have three GMF grinders, all in fairly shabby condition.The biggest and best is an 8 inch heavy duty model on the sheet metal stand as per the front page illustration from GMF's 1972 brochure below.

There is a 3/4'' bar running through the cast iron motor base that supports the water cups and toolrests. I would use this bar to mount a toolrest table and articulated support along the lines of your design.

The second last image is of GMF's carbide tool grinder. I'd love to have one. I've only ever seen one in the flesh.

Bob T.

Bob T,
Those grinders look good and solid in their construction and should come up OK. My grinder is a 1990 model Abbott & Ashby that I cleaned up. You may find as I did that the normal bench grinders have quite a bit of end play in them as they were never designed for side load on the wheels. I modified mine and reduced the end float down.The GMF Carbide Grinder probably had a thrust bearings included in its design, it looks real good.
Regards Bob

Bit hard to post something in the league of Bob's grinder deluxe so here's something pretty basic.

This is a simple clamp knurler I made about six years ago and may be of interest. It was the first job I tackled with my little Hercus mill.

The body incorporating the vee is 4E cast iron, initially cut to size on my shaper and finished on the mill. The pivots are 3/8" dowel pins secured with 1/8"W socket set screws.

The arms are 3/4" square 1020. They are no.6 and 7. The first five I ruined as a result of having no idea and a lightweight machine. When the slot drill exited the slot for the wheel, the combination of a moment's climb milling and backlash would dash the cutter into the side of the slot. The results were nasty. It wasn't until I tricked the cutter by clamping a sacrificial piece of steel to the exit side and continuing the cut into it, that I overcame the problem.

The knurls are 3/4 x 1/4 x 1/4. They are made by WDS in England and purchased from Blackwoods. They turn on dowel pins.

The outer 1020 plate and a single 3/8"W countersunk socket screw hold the assembly together. The screw passes through the cast iron body and into the 1020 toolholder locating tongue.

The balled ended 1214 handle and castellated boss might appear excessive but work amazingly well, providing ample leverage for knurling 4140. It's easy to come up with some elaborate bullsh design only to find out after your labours, that it was a waste of time. The handle works.

The wheels I've used are a common size and I've found a number of new high quality Yank wheels on Ebay for very little. Brown and Sharpe and Formroll are a couple of knurl brands worth looking out for.

The last photo is of a lock "nut" I was making for the slotting head. That's a bit of 4140.

BT

Nice work Bob T , it looks like it works well. I know what you mean about having to use a sacrificial piece.

I really think Bob's grinder deserved it's own thread, being such a brilliant large project it shouldn't be hidden away in this thread. Great work again Bob.

Dave

Is there any way the Grinder Deluxe can be given it's own pride of place? A sticky? I agree Dave, it's too good to be hidden away.

BT

Bob T,
That knurler is a work of art, very nice machining and of very robust construction as is needed for a knurler. I made a simpler one a few years ago when I only had a mill/drill to work with,not in the same class as yours,great work in finding how to overcome the problems that you ran into.
Bob

Bob T....can you make me one?...I like it.......

Eskimo,

I might have one or two of the reject arms still laying around. They'd start you on your way.

Bob T.

"great work in finding how to overcome the problems that you ran into"

Now, I'd just ask you blokes how to do it.

BT

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

Eskimo,

I might have one or two of the reject arms still laying around. They'd start you on your way.

Bob T.

What!...it doesnt come complete........and whats this "reject" stuff your trying to pass off......

My latest is now a used product...and guess what..it works
Its to clean some of my toys...has bearings either end in the handle so the brass rod will turn with the brush as it moves along the rifling

An alloy cap at the rear of the handle has been fastened in place using loctite...i'll figure out how I need to get it out later...lol

its 195mm overall.

where did my pics go...vanished..eaten up by the invisible picture eating monster i guess...lol

here goes again


wonder what happend to the first lot....