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  1. #2611
    Join Date
    Jul 2021
    Location
    Adelaide, South Australia
    Age
    33
    Posts
    28

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    But if I remove the EXIF data by editing and rotating the picture to the correct orientation before posting then the picture appears the correct way up.
    Yes, because you're actually rotating the image, i.e. transforming the pixel data. You could just as well leave the EXIF data in though and let the forum software strip it.

    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    If I don't do this and leave the EXIF data in place the picture gets rotated by the forum to match the camera's reference.
    In this case you're not just leaving the EXIF data in place, you're also *not* rotating the image. The forum is also not rotating the image it's just stripping the EXIF data so that our browsers don't know to apply a transform when displaying the pixels on the screen.

    To sum up, there's two things at play here: the actual pixels in the JPEG and the an orientation transform specified in the EXIF data. If you upload the image as is, the EXIF data gets stripped and we just see the image as if the top of the phone was "up". If you use your program to remove the EXIF data which *also* rotates the image according to the specified orientation then there is no EXIF data but the image we see now agrees with the usual definition of "up", i.e. away from the center of the Earth.

  2. #2612
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    Freo
    Age
    68
    Posts
    141

    Default Finally

    Finally my 40 position toolpost came. Bloody long wait. Made a new stud with the 4 way holder supplied, i sure do hate them things, but the pain is over now , Its hard to describe just how huge the improvement is over the old lathe. It is so rigid and smooth, even parting is just wind the handle and the tool goes through without any objection, threading is so much better. Put a very fine cut on, even with carbides, and it takes it off no problems. When winding backwards there is no telltale line from the tool springing into the job, spring passes do nothing.
    MmsCamera_2021-08-20-16-43-04.jpg MmsCamera_2021-08-20-17-03-08~2.jpg
    While i was waiting i couldn't resist another go at 3D printing. I had ditched the old one as it was a bit of junk. New one is a Voron 350mm cube. Still waiting for more parts to come from Ali-express. I Must have been bored as i also started to do quite a few things to the house like replace a sliding door and convert a window into a door. Replace with commercial normal doors, not sliding, the window will have a central door with a window each side. Add a water feature, a patio and it looks like the shed will get a 10 sqM extension to become 40sqM , how wonderful is that
    MmsCamera_2021-08-16-17-49-38.jpg MmsCamera_2021-07-28-15-40-27.jpg

  3. #2613
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Revesby - Sydney Australia
    Age
    56
    Posts
    1,183

    Default

    Haven't re-attempted boring those sleeves yet, but...


    1) While CBN tip was in the boring bar, I finished machining a hardened die block.

    First on the "forming" side,
    the centre alignment bore and clearance for the die cutting edge,
    and then the forming taper with a tiny sharp edge to start the taper:

    IMG_1837.jpg IMG_1839.jpg


    Many tiny tiny cuts. Experimented with different speeds. The bore was about 33mm, but had the tool out nearly 70mm from the tool post, so was squealing and juddering, so about 100RPM was the max I could tolerate (and I was holding onto the bar with my fingers to reduce the squeal!)

    For the larger diameter (clearance for 3.710"), I could shorten the boring bar. Medium cuts (50-100microns or 2-4 thou) worked OK, but shavings were very hot - past blue and purple to bluish grey - and tip was getting hot. I also tried higher surface speeds. 700RPM or 500RPM worked, but the feel from the hand feed was hard, and after a while at that load, the shavings were getting red hot.

    I was also worried about affecting the hardening at that load, so cut it down to 330RPM, and everything was happier. Smallish cuts - about 50microns or 2thou worked OK, but needed three passes to actually finish cutting, to actually get to the point of barely rubbing (maybe 10 microns). I guess that is just the springiness of the boring bar, and cutting hard material. The "barely rubbing" cuts sometimes got hot enough to ignite the steel wool shavings, but I wasn't going to use coolant.



    Then on the punching side, carefully machine a tiny amount of clearance.
    Apparently for stainless it is meant to be 8 to 12% of material thickness.
    1mm sheet, so 100 microns or 4ish thou:
    IMG_1842.jpg

    Had to actually do that twice, because I was measuring 4thou on the diameter, and clearance for material has to be on both sides of the die!
    IMG_1843.jpg

    Now for the test. The kitchen fabricator grabs some stainless sheet, drills 3mm hole, then out to 8mm, then a hole punch at about 60mm. Then the punching side of my die block. It seems to be going very slowly. I realise that the sheet is 1.2mm, and the impact driver the fabricator is using has a flat battery. Fresh battery, and eventually the die goes PING!

    Then, remove punched disc, turn die block over, and screw the parts together. It forms a nice taper which fits the sink trap nicely:
    IMG_1844.jpg

    Fabricator is happy - this shape is better than the previous die block (that me split in two) - but I will do some tweaking, a little more clearance, an extra facet on the taper, and maybe a ground flat to get a screwdriver under to remove the punched disc.



    2. One of my centres is a little too long. The end is now fowling on the grub screws I put in my tailstock last week.
    A sensible man would just grind the end off, but I decide to throw it in the Hercus to machine a bevel on the end.
    How many tapers do I need to hold a centre between centres?
    IMG_1823.jpg
    Two tapers; MT3 to JT in spindle, to drive the centre's pointy end; and a live centre MT2 in the tailstock to force job into the other one.
    Centre also had a few bumps on it, so emery cloth polish while we are here.



    3. Refurbing an old bandsaw from someone's throwout. Had no motor. Base was flimsy sheet metal. I found another, sturdier base, on someone else's throwout:
    IMG_1824.jpg
    Don't believe the sticker that says "WOOD CUTTING" - I will fit a metal blade.

    Apart from a blade, bandsaw is missing the table insert. They are usually made of metal, but I decide to do something different, a transparent window so I can see the bottom blade guide and roller.


    Use another bandsaw to chop a triangle of 6mm Polycarbonate with a little locating notch, mount it in the Hercus with a 3mm spacer off the chuck, machine it roundish to fit the table cutout:
    IMG_1832.jpg


    turn it over, and make stepped flange to clear the bottom of the table:
    IMG_1833.jpg


    Almost fits, but table has a larger pad underneath to hold locating pin:
    IMG_1834.jpg

    so a quick trip to the mill, using the only cutter I have that is about the right diameter:
    IMG_1835.jpg


    Cheap blade (carbon steel, $23 delivered) arrived Tuesday. Broke it in on some timber, then the slit in the Polycarbonate. It seems to cut OK. Don't have finished photo yet - still to fit a power switch, considering a belt guard, et c.





    P.S. Sorry for the mix of metric and imperial. My large micrometers are imperial, so accurate measurement of the bore and punch clearance had to be using them.
    Last edited by nigelpearson; 26th Aug 2021 at 08:45 PM. Reason: Missing images. Upload cache time out?

  4. #2614
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Revesby - Sydney Australia
    Age
    56
    Posts
    1,183

    Default Blacksmithing failure

    A walk-in wants about 200 decorative studs to repair an old door at a pub. The little studs appear to be cast iron with nails in the middle.

    We advised him to try a local foundry or two, but the ones that can cast iron were not interested, so he came back.

    CNC guy says "I can knock those out easily", but we look at the number of other jobs he has on, and decide that won't happen in a timely manner. (I think CoVID lockdown apathy has infected him)


    Scratch our heads a lot. Vintage engine guy says get some cheap steel rod, heat them up real good, smash them in a die. They will be like chewing gum. Piece of p!$$
    CNC guy puts on his "die making" hat, says "it isn't that easy", some words later, he says "I can machine a hundred of them before you have got the die working."


    So, I throw some 4140 in the lathe, drill a 1/2" hole, shove a 1/2" ball nose in there, then a little boring bar for a 15° taper. Manage to almost blend the taper into the hemisphere from the ball nose:
    IMG_1857.jpg



    Cut some cheap 12mm round steel into little slugs. Grab butane torch, fire brick, and 5lb hammer, and try some bashing:
    IMG_1858.jpg



    Didn't go well. Could only get steel red on outside, and by time I grab in pliers and line up in die, it probably already loses red-ness. Bash a few times, but square-cut end of steel seems to have hooked on walls in die?


    So, round 2. Propane torch with air holes, a helper to swing a sledge hammer:
    IMG_1859.jpg
    (the brown one touching the pliers is the original that we are trying to copy)


    Getting closer, but slugs still not hot enough



    Will try oxy-acelylene next time.

    Might also try bigger die, that smashes down on steel and anvil (to reduce time to place slug in die).

  5. #2615
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    35
    Posts
    1,522

    Default

    Made some little spring detents the other day as I needed some with adjustable force.

    Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

  6. #2616
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Revesby - Sydney Australia
    Age
    56
    Posts
    1,183

    Default

    Hafco mill has MT3 taper, and a 1/2"Ww drawbar. Took me ages to find a cheap ER32 holder with 1/2" thread in the back.

    1- When it arrived, found the spanner slot was an odd size:
    IMG_1848.jpg

    (compared to the other ER32 holder on the left, that I bought a big 36mm spanner for)

    So, in the mill for a quick enhancement:
    IMG_1849.jpg IMG_1850.jpg IMG_1851.jpg

    (first clamping didn't grip well enough, and the bottom side of a t-slot cutter wouldn't cut this stuff)


    End result:
    IMG_1852.jpg



    2- The collet clamping nut. Doesn't fit my ER32UM spanner:
    IMG_1870.jpg
    What the?
    Lucky I bought some nice spare nuts.



    3- Mount it, and put a collet & cutter in. Cutter is wobbling like Jello™. Check run-out:

    IMG_1863.jpg IMG_1864.jpg IMG_1865.jpg

    Yes, 30+ microns TRO on the collet taper
    I'm not willing to trust a good cutter in this thing, so straight to a lathe for now.
    (I'll use it in the tailstock until I'm brave enough to re-machine the taper)

    Grahame, another one for the "New tools that need repair/re-machining before use" file




    4- While I was at the mill, bit of a tidy-up. Found some open white mesh in a scrap bin (flouro light cover?)

    Just the thing for hanging a few MT3 tools through:
    IMG_1866.jpg IMG_1867.jpg IMG_1868.jpg


    Also put a shelf up on the left, for collets and cutters:
    IMG_1869.jpg

  7. #2617
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    sydney ( st marys )
    Age
    64
    Posts
    4,887

    Default

    Why didn't you just change the draw bar?

  8. #2618
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Revesby - Sydney Australia
    Age
    56
    Posts
    1,183

    Default

    Drawbar swap? Laziness.


    For a while I was using the little MT2/ER32 you gave me, with a cut off MT2->MT3 sleeve, and a length of 3/8"Ww threaded bar from Bunnings, but every time I needed something different to an ER, this process ensued;


    1. loosen the head and wind it up a bit so belt cover clears top of pillar
    2. remove makeshift drawbar
    3. find/insert 1/2"Ww drawbar
    4. tap collet chuck & sleeve out
    5. tap new tool into taper, tighten drawbar
    6. re-adjust head height, remember to tighten head on pillar



    The original chuck and brazed face mill cutter, and a t-slot cutter and raw MT3 collet I found, are all 1/2"Ww draw thread.
    For now, easier to just keep that draw bar in there

  9. #2619
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    68
    Posts
    1,373

    Default I made a bracket

    In keeping with Project Binky, today I made a little bracket...
    ¾" plate with 1¾" drill ⅜" pilot, cross fingers and straight in with the big drill)
    Lots of TC16 rods later we have the finished result.

    20210906_145433.jpg

  10. #2620
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    35
    Posts
    1,522

    Default

    That is one hell of a bracket! What's it for?

    Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

  11. #2621
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    68
    Posts
    1,373

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by caskwarrior View Post
    That is one hell of a bracket! What's it for?

    Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
    Moving pairs of locomotive bogies (10-15T each) within the depot using a stiff bar connected to a diesel shunter.

  12. #2622
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Revesby - Sydney Australia
    Age
    56
    Posts
    1,183

    Default

    1. Re-pointing some transfer punches in the Hercus:

    IMG_1871.jpg


    2. Got some cheap Allen & Bradley e-stop switches (with solid alloy cases!),
    so finished the bandsaw:

    IMG_1885.jpgIMG_1886.jpg IMG_1887.jpg

  13. #2623
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,540

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nigelpearson View Post
    Probably not so critical on a bandsaw, and certainly your equipment, your preference applies, but the directive at one employer I worked at was to have E-stops mounted at knee height or similar, just in case your hands were 'busy' at the time the E-stop was used (normal start/ stop could be anywhere convenient)

    Michael

  14. #2624
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Revesby - Sydney Australia
    Age
    56
    Posts
    1,183

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    directive ... was to have E-stops mounted at knee height or similar
    I can see some wisdom in that, although the size of the target might be an issue?
    (hand-eye co-ordination is much better than knee-shin)



    1) On my drill press, I fitted a foot pedal switch so you can use one hand to hold the work, and one to lower the drill/quill/chuck. Also fitted an e-stop on that, at forehead height

    Interestingly, the few times that the drill has grabbed when hand-holding work, it is amusing that I neither head-butted the e-stop nor took my foot off the pedal


    2) On the Hafco lathe, the foot brake is also the e-stop. Haven't really had to use that yet

  15. #2625
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Revesby - Sydney Australia
    Age
    56
    Posts
    1,183

    Default Today, some lathe bed maintenance

    1. Hercus felt cleanup. After 2 years, they were leaving black stripes on the bed's Vs - no matter how much oil was on the bed. Took felts out out, washed in Kerosene for a few hours, then used a strong magnet to remove the larger bits of steel from the felt:
    IMG_1913.jpg
    Then oiled well before re-attaching to carriage:
    IMG_1914.jpg


    2) Hafco bed. Under the chuck, where the removable gap is, fills up with swarf. The coolant also collects there and rusts ferrous swarf, as it is a basically cup shaped:
    IMG_1915.jpg

    So, time for a sloping shield. An extrusion from an old external computer disk drive case, and a little bending:
    IMG_1918.jpg IMG_1919.jpg


    While I'm adding sheet metal to the bed, there is also the other end. Like many lathe beds, the cast feet are hollow, which is a trap for swarf and dropped tooling and parts, so...
    IMG_1920.jpg IMG_1921.jpg

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