Thread: Your latest project

Originally Posted by wheelinround

Like that idea might borrow it for a Surface plate unit I need to make asap.

Press weights about 40-50kg, so its easy to lift away. Then table can be used in other ways.

I have been making a drawer under the top, and a hood kind of thingy to the side.

Then it can be used with a chop saw, to collect the dust and chips. Or to repair small engines, oil and dirt is collected to the drawer.

Its little hard for me to explain it, so I'll post pictures when its done.

Originally Posted by Tuomas Soikkeli

I did a simple table for my diy press.

Attachment 392319

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I have couple other uses for the table too, than being just under the press. But, i need to finish some parts before i can show them.

I'll post more pictures when its all done.

Nice, and my favourite colour to paint things, lol

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Because there was empty space on the side of the table.
I made this simple clamp rack to take it in use.

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Material is stainless 316. Brushed after welding.

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And because i do most cutting using angle grinder.
I have found annoying to find a place where to lay it between uses. I made this rest, so i don't need to but it to the ground.
It works for storing too.

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Not really big enough to call a project, but for ages I’ve been intending to put a flue damper in my shed heater.

Spend a couple of hours tonight and knocked one up with from some bits of scrap. Just a butterfly valve on the inside, and this contraption on the outside to set the position.



It’s already got a damper down the bottom so I can control the incoming air but felt it needed more air for a cleaner burn without going straight to furnace mode!




Too late tonight to be bothered firing it up to test so will do that tomorrow.
Hoping it will allow me to retain a bit more heat rather than it all going straight up the chimney.

Steve

I struggled at first to see how the adjustment worked because I thought the butterfly was on the top part of the apparatus, my poor brain took a while to realise that the top bit was to clamp the valve in position. There is an upside in testing at night, in that no one can see just how much smoke you are producing. I have heard rumours that certain industries which have times when they are likely to make plenty of smoke, like on startup after a shutdown for example, try to do it at night to hide from the EPA. I will be interested to hear how successful your modification is when you get a chance to evaluate it.

Originally Posted by Ropetangler

I struggled at first to see how the adjustment worked because I thought the butterfly was on the top part of the apparatus, my poor brain took a while to realise that the top bit was to clamp the valve in position. There is an upside in testing at night, in that no one can see just how much smoke you are producing. I have heard rumours that certain industries which have times when they are likely to make plenty of smoke, like on startup after a shutdown for example, try to do it at night to hide from the EPA. I will be interested to hear how successful your modification is when you get a chance to evaluate it.

I think that kind of adjust works best, when fire starts to ember and there's no flame anymore, but still a lot of heat.

One can slowly close it, until there's no risk of carbon monoxide, then fully close and keep the heat in.

Gave it a test run last night, and it seems to work well. I got a decent fire going with dampers open and a good roar happening - then closed off the chimney damper a bit.
Definitely reduced the roaring, but felt like it was radiating a bit more heat. Very subjective though as I don’t have a way of measuring the surface temperature on the heater - it’s well above the 280C that my little digital thermometer goes to.

Something I forgot to mention in my original post was that the butterfly valve isn’t a tight fit in the flue. It’s about 12mm smaller diameter so has about 6mm clearance all around. It was just what I had lying around, and I figured that I’d never want to close it completely anyway.

The locking lever pivot binds slightly once it gets really hot too. Not quite enough clearance even though I thought I’d made it plenty loose enough.

Steve

Another "project" that barely qualifies as a project.

Before the bathroom reno, throwing open the bathroom door could result in a flat section of the door colliding with the toilet seat, so a protective rubber pad was placed on the door and this worked OK for 25 years.

After the reno, internal rearrangements meant that the edge of the door now could strike within 10mm of the corner of the stone top vanity. Visions of the vanity corner being knocked off. Neither the door edge or the vanity were suitable for any padding and not sure that would work anyway. I though about a floor mounted do0r stop - that would end up right where any toilet occupants feet would be located, and then some sort of a stop near the hinges - visions of this levering the door off its hinges, so decide to whip up a custom hinged restraint for above the door.

All stainless using bits from my stash, and yes there was a little bit of turning involved in the plain bearing arrangement for the attachment on the door frame.

Doorrestraint.JPG

Someone gave me a 4 jaw chuck. It is a cheap and nasty thing, but I didn't have an independent chuck, so it has sat on the floor for months while I tried to work out how to use it.


It has a threaded bore for mounting on a spindle. My Hercus has a threaded spindle. All should be good, right?
Not quite. Chuck is 1.5" 6tpi. Hercus is 1.5" 8tpi.

Chuck body is rough cast iron. Casting doesn't look strong enough for boring out and sleeving, and cutting a new thread in a weld/brazing isn't feasible.


Today, I thought of a way to easily mount it on my rarely used face plate. Machined a little stepped locating plug:
IMG_1632.jpg


Smallest step is 0.935" - a tight fit in the MT3 taper in the end of the spindle.
Next step is 1.33" - a loose fit in the thread of the face plate.
Largest step is 1.54" - slides in the register of this chuck.



Tomorrow, I will drill 4 holes in the chuck casting, and fit bolts (and spacers?), to attach it to the faceplate.

Barely a “project” - But I’m so happy to be able to weld Aluminium (kind of)

Holds the Tacho and fairing on my race bike.
Half the weight of the the stock steel one.
(And not bent/rusty)

Nice job. Well done.

Welding aluminium takes practice and lots of it. At least it does for me.

Hi Guys,

Try aluminium welding using Oxy, it just collapses into a puddle

only turns into a puddle if you're not quick enough

Never try to burn powder coat of alloy with a gas torch. The alloy melts before the powder coat burns. Don't ask how I know that.

Originally Posted by Bigcam

only turns into a puddle if you're not quick enough

My TIG has a foot pedal (Throttle).
I find it invaluable. “Floor it” to get going then back off a little as the job heats up.

It’s all a new adventure for me.
I was proficient with a stick welder in the distant past. (Well before “Auto” lenses - another innovation!)

I’m loving the TIG: Steel, Stainless Steel (still might be getting it a bit hot - grey looking), Aluminium.