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Thread: Your latest project
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1st Mar 2021, 08:43 PM #2476Golden Member
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1st Mar 2021, 09:43 PM #2477Golden Member
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Hi Bill,
That brass is the gib lying flat to show the dimples where the crews are going. Here it is with the male/female
20210223_212817.jpg
Regards,
Trong
I had another go tonight modifying the holder and I am quite pleased with it.
20210301_210134.jpg
20210301_211402.jpg
20210301_211656.jpg
20210301_211706.jpg
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10th Mar 2021, 08:11 PM #2478
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31st Mar 2021, 10:05 PM #2479Diamond Member
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- Revesby - Sydney Australia
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Two lathe tasks
1st was a few weeks ago. A prototype for a spray can purging tool:
IMG_1306.jpg IMG_1307.jpg
It also has a steel tube threaded in, which goes into the can
(in place of the plastic spray nozzle).
2nd was today, machining gudgeon pin sleeves for a Chevy 4:
IMG_1361.jpg IMG_1362.jpg IMG_1363.jpg IMG_1364.jpg
New Chevy 4 pistons are hard to find and expensive. Model T Ford is a close match, but their pins are a bit smaller, and there isn't enough material on the pistons to bore them out for the original pins.
So the original .86" diameter gudgeon pins, which clamp in the original connecting rod little ends, get bored out to just under .74", shortened to about 1", honed, and clamped around the smaller Model T pins.
It was a bit of a learning experience;
- The pins are quite hard. A standard coated CCMT06 didn't last very long. A black insert (probably stainless rated?) cut better, and got me through boring two sleeves, at about 500RPM.
- I bored the third one out too much Haven't got the hang of using telescopic gauges yet.
- Toolmaker supplied a ceramic insert. The recommendation was to have the surface speed as high as possible, so lathe was at 2000RPM. It cut fast and beautifully (see 4th image above) while the edge held up, but...
- ...somehow, the pin – which was held with about 30mm out of the chuck – started to wobble a little.
(a hard spot inside might have heated/bent it somehow?) - ...when facing the end of the next pin, interrupted cut from wobbly end wiped it out.
- ...somehow, the boring became less than parallel. When trying to correct that, I over-cut again.
(I think boring with that bad insert became more of a metal-pushing operation?)
Last edited by nigelpearson; 31st Mar 2021 at 10:13 PM. Reason: Try to add missing image attachments
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1st Apr 2021, 12:41 PM #2480Most Valued Member
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Nigel try your ccmt inserts at 150 rpm, if you have no coolant squirt oil in the hole.
I just bored out the centre of a very hard gear using cheap tcmt inserts at 150 rpm, it was an interupted cut through 4 gear selection dogs and once past the dogs i increased to about 300rpm, about 10 insert corners to get the job done, took me a couple of hrs to go from 30 to 45mm.
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1st Apr 2021, 05:50 PM #2481Golden Member
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3rd Apr 2021, 09:46 AM #2482Diamond Member
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I had some 40mm dia. 4140, but turning that down to size, then machining the inside out, seemed like more work?
(of course, I didn't know how hard they were until I started)
The vintage engine guy honed them out with a connecting rod honing machine. Don't know the brand, probably Repco, it uses Sunnen stones.
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3rd Apr 2021, 01:30 PM #2483Most Valued Member
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- Mar 2011
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- Southern Flinders Ranges
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Opened my mouth with a counter opinion to my other half yesterday and it didn’t end well, the bright side being I got left alone in the shed for a protracted period and knocked out a couple of things from the to do list..
Made a new base for my trim router out of a piece of IKEA cutting board, and some soft jaws for the Dawn vice I had listed in the marketplace area that hasn’t sold.
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10th Apr 2021, 10:46 PM #2484Diamond Member
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Spent some time filling the new QCTP holders:
IMG_1379.jpg
and turned down the oversized head of a square bolt-head spanner:
IMG_1380.jpg IMG_1381.jpg
(right hand side was roughed by negative rake TNMG16 tool)
Then, onto one of the holders, which was a poor fit from the factory. One of the Vs had a .3mm gap on one side:
IMG_1352.jpg
so, into the mill for some munging:
IMG_1387.jpg IMG_1388.jpg
I started with a blunt 8mm mill. It didn't cut well, mainly rubbing. So, tried with a blunt two flute 12mm slot mill. Started out OK, but second or third pass was groaning and vibrating. I might have been spinning too fast. Found a four flute 12mm end mill. It was also blunt, but dropping below 300rpm, and a drop of cutting fluid (tap magic), got some workable chips:
IMG_1389.jpg
Then, toolmaker neighbour looked in, and offered to surface grind. He didn't spend a lot of time, but it tidied up a bit:
IMG_1390.jpg
That got the outer V to .05mm on one end, and touching in the middle. Doesn't make the lathe tool that much more rigid - deflection on a boring bar dropped from 15 to 10thou - but it makes me happier!
(next time I will try using the edge of these gifted blunt old milling cutters?)
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11th Apr 2021, 09:25 AM #2485
Hi Nigel,
If you are like myself you must really disappointed in purchasing a new tooling item that should be ready to go and then requires extensive work just to allow it to fit.
Perhaps we can create a new definition for a quality chinese tooling product that could be:
" A product that does not require any extra work to make it fit for its purpose."
Grahame
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11th Apr 2021, 01:05 PM #2486Diamond Member
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A little, but most of them were good, and at $33 each?
More disappointing was the responses when I told them it was "a loose fit":
Can you send us the video to our email address? ...Thye tool holder is made by metal, it's solid metal, so it can't be loosen.
The photo can't indicate what you said. It had not shown the model of the tool holder. Can you send us a video? Frankly speaking, the block on the tool post is adjustable, you can adjust the live block to tighten or loosen the tool holder.
The single photo can't shows all what we said, it can't help us to understand what has happened.
And they are right, cranking the cam really tight did make it lock, but so would a 12thou shim.
After that response I gave up trying to improve their quality assurance.
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4th May 2021, 03:01 AM #2487Golden Member
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- Jan 2016
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- Wodonga Vic
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Water Jet
I've been playing around with the water jet at work in the afternoon when everyone goes home, the plan is to teach myself how to use it.
I was curious if it would cut some gears so I went to McMaster Carr website and downloaded a CAD file of a mod 2 spur gear and after a bit of trial and error I managed to cut these, one nylon, the other inconel (that's all I had on hand) they aren't perfect, I need to work on the lead in and lead outs and maybe add some tabs to hold the piece in the parent stock.
So far I guess it's a success...?
IMG_1334.jpg
Does anyone here operate water jets? hopefully I can pick some brains
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4th May 2021, 05:13 AM #2488
Hi Ned,
From those pictures they to to be very workable !Best Regards:
Baron J.
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8th May 2021, 12:59 AM #2489Diamond Member
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Swords to ploughshares
A fun hour or two, machining a bush for the top of my QCTP. I used to have just a 3mm thick washer, but wanted something that located perfectly on the toolpost stud IN the tool block.
Took a while to find some suitable steel. A cut up gun barrel, originally made in Lithgow small arms factory!
It already had a hole in the middle, and the large end was about the right diameter:
IMG_1475.jpg
Stud is 18mm at the bottom, and an M16 thread at the top, so for a perfectly tight fit the inside bores had to be stepped. Hole in the tool block is 20mm ID.
Parting off was a slight issue. Hard steel, blunt insert, and I think tool was too high. End result was very hot machined bush:
IMG_1477.jpg
but some finishing cuts, to fine tune the height so the toolpost locking nut/handle sits in a good position, and it looks almost professional:
IMG_1478.jpg IMG_1479.jpg
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8th May 2021, 09:12 AM #2490Most Valued Member
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Must have been some gun! Definitely not small arms.
Chris
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