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Thread: Your latest project
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10th Jun 2020, 09:41 PM #2416
My latest piece, its a fatbum bartable as one of my friends called it.
Its 1800x900x1130H made of 75x2.5mm square section with top made from recycled jarrah rafters, the finishes are stain black Dulux metal shield(never ever again...)and the jarrah was 1st grain/crack filled with black tinted epoxy then stained black(using Ubeauts water dyes) and the top coating is a home brew BLS oil/spar varnish/gum turpentine also with black oil based stain mixed in... about 6 coats they wanted the murdered out look.....................................................................
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10th Jun 2020, 10:20 PM #2417
And some crazy mucking about contraptions
One is a mini English wheel for prestretching thin sheet metal before running it through my bead roller machine, this is to minimise distortion, the bearings are courtesy of Micheal G, please excuse the welding mess as these are some of my 1st mig welds... Im struggling a little with it I really prefer Tig and stick
The other is a weird one, I've come up with a new hobby and thats rotary moulded concrete pots this thing is a turntable base it will have a 1.2m plattern mounted on it... big pots about 1.1m in dia
The way it works, there's a center pivot/pole that you swing a frame that holds a former the shape of the side profile the pot an inner and outer. Firstly you make an inner mound/mold from wet sand, then you drizzle a thin cement/water mix over it and let it set for a few minutes the you apply a medium thick layer of render over it and cross hatch it, from here you add some wire reo(fencing wire)let it set for a while then start applying the top coats of render to the thickness desired I found 30~40mm is plenty.
Now its to size you screed it to shape using the former, adding more render to the low bits scraping off the highs having the rotary table makes this easier.
Finally you make up a very thin render using cement and the finest sand possible to the consistency of ceramic slip pour it over and run the former over it again to give a smooth coating.
It takes pretty much a whole day to make one pot... but its rewarding and way way cheaper than buying large format pots(upwards of 1k$ for anything over 1m in dia).....................................................................
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12th Jun 2020, 11:35 PM #2418Senior Member
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I made a vise.
IMG_20200611_184103_955.jpg
Video about the use:
( Not monetized )
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14th Jun 2020, 10:56 AM #2419Most Valued Member
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14th Jun 2020, 01:49 PM #2420Senior Member
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Here is a video about making:
https://youtu.be/-yNJUkSJoy8
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14th Jun 2020, 02:04 PM #2421Most Valued Member
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Thanks for the video of how you made it Tuomas. I reckon I've a few of the Hydraulic jacking part in my shed, if anyone wants one.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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15th Jun 2020, 11:10 AM #2422Most Valued Member
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17th Jun 2020, 11:06 PM #2423Senior Member
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Sorry. I am not sure did i understand your question..
But, no it doesn't slide back under heavy pressure.. Of course, its said that every hydraulic system looses some of its pressure when time goes by, but then we are talking about days. Usually i don't need to clamp things to vise for days.
Anyway: Here is the instructable about it, if one is interested.
https://www.instructables.com/id/Com...ic-Screw-Vise/
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20th Jun 2020, 09:36 PM #2424Most Valued Member
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Been slowly working on a small batch of tool holders for my QCTP.
They came out pretty well so decided they deserved opening the virgin kit of Caswells Black Oxide that I bought a couple of years back.
Threw in my the milling vice stop while I was at it.
Pretty happy with the end result.
Steve
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29th Sep 2020, 07:10 PM #2425Philomath in training
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My mill lights are basically fixed and typically always in the wrong spot. I made up this pair of arms (each leg is around 250mm long) based on an indicator stand. They need a little bit of turning to get the clamping action right but I'm basically happy with them.
P1040898.JPG
Of course, having made arms I'm now thinking that the current lamps I have look a little bit shabby and I probably need to find something a little better...
Michael
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29th Sep 2020, 08:06 PM #2426
Nice work they look great and great idea.
The square or round 12-24v led work lights on ebay are great and cheap. They are meant for work Utes etc.
I've bought 4 and I let Peter (Bollie) know and he bought 2, we are both happy with them for around $18 for 2 x lights delivered.Using Tapatalk
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8th Oct 2020, 12:40 AM #2427Golden Member
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After waiting 4 months for an adjustable fuel mixture screw for the Kawasaki and receiving the wrong one, I soft soldered a tee handle to the original since I had it out of the carb anyway,
I'm yet to set the lathe up so I just used an appropriate length brass screw and a bit of filler rod for the tee.
It doesn't look too bad after a dip in some paint, let's hope it works, the original is virtually impossible to access without pulling the carb.
IMG_0314.jpg
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10th Oct 2020, 06:53 PM #2428Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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Hand vice
This was supposed to only take a few hours but as usual things got complicated and it's taken me a lot longer.
The origins of this project was I had to drill a number of 2.3mm diameter holes around the edges of some 3/8" brass washers but found holding them a PITA so thought I'd make myself a small hand vice as they fit under the drill press more easily that small G clamps and are less likely to mark the work than multi grips.
First thing was the geometry was more complicated than I first thought so decided to add a slight separated/raised hinge.
Then, while drilling the hole for the main M8 clamping socket screw, I drilled the 8mm hole right through both jaws/handles meaning I could not tap the thread on one side.
I though about using a M10 screw but at that point I decided a kludge fix would do so I welded an M8 nut over the hole would but I must not have cleaned the nut thoroughly enough because it came out looking like an old wart.
I then decided to drill a 16mm hole right through the nut and handle and weld in a 16mm diameter plug from a piece of 16 mm rod. Next problem - plug got seriously hardened during the welding process because a HSS bit would barely scratch the plug so I had to heat treat the welded plug.
IMG_4638.jpg
IMG_4639.jpg
The final result still came out more "agricultural" than I would have liked. You can see the clearance chamfer is not even along the jaw line, and the jaws don't quite line up but they should be fixable by clamping the jaws together and running over the edges with a milling cutter.
The top handle's M8 hole is slightly elongated/slotted to enable the top handle to move through an arc to generate a jaw opening of up to 25 mm although I doubt the jaws will be used that far open. This requires the M8 socket screw to move though a slightly slotted hole so using a hemispherical washer produces a line instead of a point contact on the top of the handle. That bit seems to work except the hemispherical washer does want to to rotate more than I'd like when tightening the clamping screw. Might try a small washer between the M8 socket and the hemispherical washer.
Probably will get chucked in with the next batch of bluing WIGRTI.
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12th Oct 2020, 07:59 AM #2429Most Valued Member
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Hi Bob,
Couldn't help but laugh to myself while reading your honest recount of that project!
Drilling the finished hole right through instead of the tapping sized hole is something I've done countless times.
Never ceases to amaze me how I can sometimes do intricate and tight tollerance work, only to be stuffed up with a seemingly simple operation done wrong!
Simon
Sent from my SM-G970F using TapatalkGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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29th Nov 2020, 06:07 PM #2430Senior Member
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Made a two simple decorations from 54kg/m rr-track.
FB_IMG_1605523287925.jpgFB_IMG_1605523292840.jpg
Height of this one 800mm.
FB_IMG_1606574219946.jpg
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