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  1. #2311
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Steve,

    At the time, I didn't think that it was too expensive ! But I do agree that it would be far more costly nowadays.

    I visit the old place occasionally and I'm quite surprised that it still looks as good as it does. A garage mechanic moved in after I left and then an engineering firm moved in after them, they are still in there. Wink wink nod.

    One of the beauties of epoxy is that you can easily clean it or wash it down. Being able to keep the floor clean is one of the reasons I tiled my workshop floor. Sweeping loose concrete is no fun at all, particularly if you have a soft patch like I have in the garage. I floor painted that but it soon flakes and then you have to paint it all over again.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  2. #2312
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,836

    Default

    Hey Steve not sure if flooring epoxy is the same as fibreglassing epoxy i have bought a 24L kit of Con Coat before and was told it was ok to use on a boat, The epoxy i use for my boat rebuild now cost $420 for 24L i'd imagine u only place a thin layer over the floor am i correct in assuming this? could be quiet expensive if its for that huge garage on the next page over wish i had something like that i am envious mate

    can understand about the stains i only have a 3x3m garden shed with cement floor i have spilt oil etc... cant get it off but going epoxy i would imagine that would be slippery as all hell with a little bit of moisture?

  3. #2313
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Guys,

    Epoxy floor paint doesn't have a glass smooth surface like gel coat does.

    Yes oil will make it slippery, water not so much.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  4. #2314
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    The paving paint I use is a one-part polyurethane. Seems to hold up well and you can see how it looks after 4 years on the carport floor in the photos back in post #2299.
    Needs a touch up in a couple of places (likely due to my etching job not being perfect) but has been surprisingly tough considering its only just over $200/20L, and 20L was enough to do 3 full coats on 90m2.
    Brake fluid doesn't seem to worry it, and I usually just wipe up oil with a rag, but if it starts to get a bit too grimy in a particular area (like spilled diesel engine oil) then a bit of wax/grease remover on a rag sorts it out.
    The other side-benefit of painting is that if you do a bit of work rolling around under cars like I do - its much easier to slide/wriggle underneath than it is with bare concrete.

    Definitely worth the effort up front to paint/coat it IMO. The credit for it being painted at all goes to PeteO - without his suggestion it would still be just bare.

    Steve

  5. #2315
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    melbourne, laverton
    Posts
    1,910

    Default paint

    yah good one painted concreate . poyurathane is the go hay.

  6. #2316
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,540

    Default What I've been up to over 'the break'

    Got a few things done over the last week. First was the Al tool chest. Each drawer is 60 high, 480 by 360mm. I hope I don't run out of space too quickly. Slides are commercial units from ebay. The 6 pairs weigh more than the Al box and drawers. My Al welding has improved though. Now I have to work on the handles to open them.
    P1040738.JPG
    A pair of custom 1-2-3 blocks, with hole spacings to suit my mill and R/T false table. I've had the hardened blocks sitting around for literally years, but needed the blocks for the next project, so was motivated to finish them. Turned out surprisingly well, given the dinkyness of the surface grinder.
    P1040735.JPG
    A large Keats fixture. Not sure how often it will be used but every so often one would have been handy. Top of the V is 2.5" across. Threaded holes are the standard 3/8" used throughout the shed, so no additional custom sized clamps needed. Hole and slot spacing just happen to suit the mill T slots as well as the lathe face plate (purely a coincidence of course). Major advantage in having this is that my 4 jaw chuck jaws are only around 25mm high, so not much support for larger diameter or longer pieces.
    P1040733.JPG
    Some years ago I managed to break the body of my P&N tap wrench while using it. Surprisingly the tap was fine afterwards (go figure...). I found a replacement wrench at a jumble sale, but kept the bits because one day I was sure I would get around to repairing it. For some reason I saw it sitting there today and thought that I might have a crack at that. It's a simple design and I may even scale it up one day, as while this will take a M12 tap, I'm not sure it would easily turn it (and that may have been my problem in the first place). About the only tricky part is the sliding jaw has a (3/16"?) LH thread on the end that engages with a matching hole. Provided you have a LH tap for the hole, the rest is pretty standard machining.
    P1040730.JPG

    Michael

  7. #2317
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Ipswich QLD
    Age
    68
    Posts
    1,996

    Default Metal mania

    Started the day of well pulled the 6x4 out to cut up next (this year) projects, only to find that the 2 new bandsaw blades were made over size, why do they do it, you give them a size and it seems every one adds 3 to 5mm.
    Pulled out the grinder fitted new 1mm cut off disc and due to angle of the dangle sparks could have ignited the wheelchair cushion to hot for roasted nuts.

    Set to pulled the 6x4 main wheel off and attacked the top slide slot taking out 10mm to allow adjustment all good and off I went.

    20191231_154242.jpg

    New long wood turning tool post.
    Main Shaft for Rose Engine
    4 Machine jacks
    a few other bits
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #2318
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    I've had an offcut of heavy 200mm angle and a couple of triangle gussets (laser cut drops) sitting here from a previous visit to my steel supplier.

    Bevelled the gusset edges and stuck them to the angle with the MIG to make an angle plate.
    Will true the faces up on the mill when I get a chance.
    Haven't decided yet what to do about slots/holes for mounting.



    Steve

  9. #2319
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Gippsland Victoria
    Posts
    733

    Default How To Square DIY Angle Plate ?

    Quote Originally Posted by OxxAndBert View Post

    Will true the faces up on the mill when I get a chance.


    Steve
    Hey Steve,

    When making a big angle plate like that whats the strategy for ensuring the two critical faces are at 90 degrees ?

    Is it possible to pretend that its a rectangular block and square it on a big mill similar to how I'd square 2"x3"x4" block in the vice on my little mill or is there a distinct method for doing an angle plate ?

    Bill

  10. #2320
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    Not sure if there's a preferred method, but from memory when I did a similar but much smaller one a couple of years back I milled one face flat horizontally, then clamped that face vertically against a couple of rough shop made "cylindrical squares" I had bolted to the table.

    Like this example from Harold Hall : Cylindrical Square setups on the milling machine

    Steve

  11. #2321
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Armidale NSW
    Age
    52
    Posts
    915

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by steamingbill View Post
    When making a big angle plate like that whats the strategy for ensuring the two critical faces are at 90 degrees ?
    I fabricated a large angle plate from 25 x 150 steel bar (ended up with 300 x 300 faces x 25mm thick).
    I have no idea if this is the even a half decent method, but I machined 1 face, I then mounted the plate (machined face down) to the milling table and tilted the milling head 90º and machined the second face.

    So if my table and knee are all square, then so should my angle plate. I only ever use it on that milling machine, so as long as it's square on it, that is all that matters.
    Cheers.

    Vernon.
    __________________________________________________
    Bite off more than you can chew and then chew like crazy.

  12. #2322
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    sydney ( st marys )
    Age
    64
    Posts
    4,887

    Default

    Do you have horizontal capability on your mill?

  13. #2323
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    Do you have horizontal capability on your mill?
    Yes I do, and have some horizontal cutters in the drawer although I've never actually run one on it.
    What are you thinking?

    It might actually be a good task for the shaper.
    Mount on the side of the box, machine the horizontal face, then flip it around and mount the machined face against the box.
    Machine the second face as it sits in the horizontal position.

    Steve

  14. #2324
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    sydney ( st marys )
    Age
    64
    Posts
    4,887

    Default

    If you have the tooling, you could machine one face and top edge using the Horizontal.

    Then place machined face down , and turned 90 degrees, set up to the machined edge and then machine the right angle edges, after this rotate the plate 180 degrees and repeat prior operation for the other 2 edges.

    Once those edges are done then set up to machine the other vertical face with the Horizontal, using your machined edges for setup.

    Would probably require a large face mill or fly cutter to machine in one pass for the face and an End Mill for the edges.

  15. #2325
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Steve, Guys,

    I can see two problems machining that piece ! Once you have machined one face, how are you going to set up to get the other face accurately at 90 degrees to the first one without a second angle plate and a reference surface.

    I think that is where Pipeclay is going. Machine an edge and then a face. Use the edge to set any rotational movement and then do one face.

    I don't think that there are any easy solutions to this problem.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

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