Thread: Metal Lathe DRO Axis Confusion X? Y?

HI,
I have just Mounted the DRO Reader Head on My New Hafco AL-960B (Factory fitted DRO). The Digital Read Out (DRO) is a Carmar SW4000 - 2 Axis. My DRO only has 'X' and 'Y' Inputs. Before I plugged the Scales in I thought I'd have a look on the Internet to see what goes where (as the Instructions weren't that helpful.) Now after looking on the Internet I am really Confused. I came across this Link Lathe Construction . As You can see the Link is calling the Longitudinal Axis (along the bed) the 'Z' Axis, well I don't have an input for a 'Z' Axis. Other Websites including Youtube seem to refer to the Long Axis (along the bed) as the 'Z' Axis as well. The 'X' Axis seem to be the Cross Slide Axis. The Plugs for the Scales appear to be the same one has a shortened Pin, but that doesn't Help at all though as the 'X' and 'Y' Sockets are the same.
Basically I am Frustrated which is the 'X' and which is the 'Y' Axis ?. Can Somebody Help Me out Here ?.
Thanks in Advance.

Knowing nill about that type of readout,but if you pluged the longitudinal scale into the readout and the crossfeed scale in and they worked wouldnt that be ok.

What you should try and do is workout which scale you prefer to read most often and plug the leads in accordingly.

I am guessing here but would think that the both scales would utilize the same featuers that the readout has rather than individual features.

If worst comes to worst ring the seller and ask them.

Stewart

They are just names, I would regard the X as the cross-feed (cross-slide) and the Y as the long-feed (saddle).

Where Z comes into play is on a mill where X & Y refer to the table movement and the Z axis is the head raising and lowering.

Rgds - Gavin

Any axis that runs parallel with the spindle is the Z axis, however since the DRO is marked X and Y the X is the cross slide and the Y is the long slide..

It gets confusing on different machines for example on a milling machine the cross ways is the Y axis and the long ways the X axis...

There is a rule as to how to identify each axis and it al stems from there.... Cartesian Right-Hand Rule - CNCexpo.com

The scale for the cross slide may be designed to read true distance (ie move the cross slide 2mm, readout reads 2mm) but is more likely to read the cutting distance (ie cross slide moves 1mm but readout reads 2mm, exactly what happens to the diameter in a 1mm depth of cut).

Usually the display module doesn't care which is the X or Y axis, but just in case try swapping the leads over and checking that whichever one is connected to the cross slide reader still displays a 2mm increase in the reading for a 1mm physical distance moved.

Hi, glad to hear you are up and running.
Sounds like they have thrown a mill DRO on the lathe. A lathe 2 axis DRO has X and Z buttons and a 3 axis has X, Z and Z1 buttons.
If you have a look in the link you will see the Xpos lathe/mill combo DRO like I have, has Y/Z on the Y button depending on whether you are using it in lathe or mill mode.
Results for Meister Digital Readout
Also a lathe DRO should have radius/ diameter button, does yours?
Dave

If you combine Chief Tiff and Dave J replies I think you will have it.

Hook up the longitudinal scale to "Y" socket and cross to "X" socket. Turn it on. Press the Radius/Diameter button. Whichever display flickers/changes is meant to be your cross feed axis. Watching this display, move the cross slide. If the display you were watching moves, your golden. If not, turn off, and swap the plugs over. Done!

As a matter of interest, my new 3-axis DRO has only two numerical readouts, plus a system display. This is because it uses Z-axis summation. If you were to wind the carriage one way, and the compound the other - at exactly the same speed - the Z-axis display would not alter. 1 right + 1 left = zero. Makes it a bit simpler I guess.

Originally Posted by markjaffa

As a matter of interest, my new 3-axis DRO has only two numerical readouts, plus a system display. This is because it uses Z-axis summation. If you were to wind the carriage one way, and the compound the other - at exactly the same speed - the Z-axis display would not alter. 1 right + 1 left = zero. Makes it a bit simpler I guess.

Hi Mark,
My Xpos 3 has the readouts separate in 3 windows but has a button to add Zo+Z1. When pushed it displays the combined reading from both of them in the bottom window while the second window down reads as usual. It also has a taper feature so you can measure tapers and set the compound to exact angles. My sino also has summation in lathe mode.
What brand DRO did you get? I haven't seen a 3 axis 2 window model. What happens when you turn the compound to an angle can it be read separate?
I saw one advertised that had 2 glass scales and a caliper type for the 3rd axis, strange to say the least, as the calipers type are no where near the accuracy of glass scales.
Dave

Originally Posted by .RC.

Cartesian Right-Hand Rule - CNCexpo.com

bugga me they did teach me something at Trade School....

I remember that being drummed into me but cant think why now...

Ah yes I can
something to do with electric motors and field windings ...flux and all of that stuff

Dave J - DRO is manufactured by Easson. I havent got it all set up yet, but I know you can zero the compound axis. Not sure how it will go for all applications/situations.

Easson must think its better - they only offer this two display readout for three axis lathe DROs - in this range. They do have an all-in-one model apparently - but it misses out on some of the machine-specific functions. This has three readouts - one for each axis.

HI ALL,
Thats very Good Info - Thankyou. I went through the Manual again last Night, I discovered I had missed a Page. The Page in Question was showing the 'X' axis as the Longitudinal Axis and the 'Y' axis was showed as the Cross slide axis. When I seen that, I thought that really contradicts what I found out (and what You Guys have told Me). I decided to Contact Hare & Forbes today. I spoke to Grant, who told Me that He refers to the 'X' axis as the Long axis and the 'Y' as the cross slide axis. He said that the DRO is'nt Factory Preset and that I can put the Scale Plugs into whichever Sockets I feel comfortable with.
In regards to what 'Chief Tiff' had said - the DRO has a 'Shrinkage Button' just below the white 'X-y' button. I had worked this out, but I confirmed it with Greg. Basically the Shrinkage button is the Diameter button. I can set the Shrinkage Ratio to whatever I want - I will be setting it so if I take a 0.5mm Cut the Diameter will be reduced by 1.0mm.
The DRO appears to be a Universal Unit. It has for example a Bolt Hole function as well as having a Lathe Mode setting. A picture of the Unit in question
I probably wont get to have a Play with the Lathe and DRO until the Weekend. I will let You know how I get on.
Thanks again.

Hey steran50.
How did you get on with the DRO?
My 960b is still in the crate and have not had the chance to pull it out yet... Maybe in a few weeks!

Did you decide which way you were going to plug in the x and y axis yet?
How about the different oils for running your machine. What did you decide on?
The oils is another area I have to research.
Thanks mate.
Ben in Bello

HI Ben,
I got the DRO sorted out quite a while ago. Sorry Everyone I forgot to let You know how I went. From what I found the DRO had already been set up. It must have been in the Lathe or Carmar Factory, because Hare & Forbes didn't think it would be. I found that, because it was already set up I had to Plug the Long Axis (Apron Handwheel) into the 'Y' Axis and the Cross Slide I plugged into the 'X' Axis. Just for an Example on the Display Readings the 'Y' Axis reads to 3 decimal points ie 86.765mm and the 'X' Axis reads to two decimal points ie 71.39mm. 'X' Axis is the Length of the Work Piece and 'Y' Axis is the Diameter of the Work Piece.

When You get Your Lathe Unpacked Ben have a look at the Manual that came with Your DRO and see what Version it is. On the Carmar Website You can get Version 5.13 Here is the Links Download - CARMAR TECHNOLOGY CO.,LTD. and direct to the Download http://www.carmar-tech.com/upload/Im...gue/SW4000.pdf . That is assuming Your AL960b has a Carmar SW4000 DRO.

As for the Lubrication I spoke to Hare & Forbes (Melbourne Branch) and was told to use Hydraulic Oil ISO 46 in the Headstock and Apron Gearbox. They also told Me to change the Oil after the first two Hours from memory.
On My AL-960B I use Lubrimaxx Slideway Oil 68 on the Bed Ways, Cross Slide Ways, Topslide Ways Tailstock and Chucks and on the length of the Feedscrew, Feedshaft and Main Switch Shaft.
I use Lubrimaxx Hydraulic Oil 46 in the Headstock, Apron, Quick Change Gearbox, Cross slide Screw, Topslide Screw, Feedscrew Oil Point and on both Oil Points for the Feed Shaft and the Main Switch Shaft. On the Rack (for the Apron handwheel) and the Change Gears (under the drive belt cover) I use Fuchs Poliplex 2 Grease. A Slideway Oil would be fine to use on the Cross Slide and Topslide Screws, I however choose to use 46 Hydraulic Oil.
The Quick Change Gearbox uses a Total Loss System for its Lubrication, because of this I have placed a small Baking Tray under the Levers of the Quick Change Gearbox to catch the Waste Oil. So as I don't end up with an Oily Mess on the Lathe Cabinet Tray. Here is a Link where We discussed the Lubrication on the AL960b http://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/al...stions-145747/

In Regards to the Decimal Points that My DRO is Reading to is that what You Guys have got ?.
I hope the above Helps Ben.

HI Again,
I forgot to Say that I don't use the DRO all the Time, but I do use it a Fair bit though. I find the DRO to be Extremely Handy when Turning down to a Critical Diameter or Turning one or more steps on a Work Piece. I remember seeing something in the Manual when doing Multiple Steps on a Work Piece about being able to program the DRO somehow. I haven't worried about this as yet. I am certainly glad that I went for the DRO Option though as it is so Handy.

It's funny you should mention that.I picked up the DRO with the lathe after a few guys mentioned that you will never go back to the old ways... I'm sure it will become handy for layouts etc but I don't see myself using it all that much. That and indexable carbide bits... I almost bought a heap from H&F to get me started but after reviewing them here I changed my mind. I'm not sure I will really go down that path. M42 HSS should do me just fine. 1/2 inch for anything complex and I picked the diamond tool holders. They look too simple to pass up.

Thanks for the advice mate!
Much needed!
Ben in Bello