Thread: Your Thoughts on Coolants for Mill?

Is Inox MX3 the way to go for use with coolant pump

or should one use a synthetic coolant such as Fuchs ECOCOOL 9020 or similar with high resistance to to bacterial and fungal contamination.

Inox is not a cutting fluid....It will actually catch fire if it gets too hot..Also Inox will dry out and put a gummy scum that is very hard to remove from paint and bright metal surfaces... I used to use it as a rust preventative on the lathe and mill, but I regret using it for that purpose. It took me a long time and some harsh cleaning agents to remove it...

Inox is a great product for what it was designed for, as a cutting fluid isn't one of them..

In regards to a cutting coolant use what ever you like,whether that be a Bio degradable oil or a Synthetic.

You will have to ask the supplier questions in regards to your situation.

Evaporation can sometimes be a big factor depending on the region you live or how it is stored.

Also if you are running readouts make sure that your coolant is compatable with them,once again the supplier should have this information or be able to get it.

On the other hand make sure that any readouts you use are suitable for use in coolant applications.

Also ask the suplier if there products will mark the ways if left on them,myself I dont worry but some do.

By the looks of it Hare and Forbes are selling a different coolant now.
Dave

Try Shell Dromus B oil,it's readily miscible in water for general pumped coolant/lubricant duties, on low med and high tensile steels as well as Aluminium
use a slightly heavier mix for Brasses.

Shell Sitala is another good coolant/lubricant for ferrous metals and Aluminium alloys, and is chlorinated for better antibacterial protection in the sump.

G'day all,
on a slightly different subject- has anyone had experiance and commets to share about 'cold air guns'?
like this; http://www.knightpneumatics.com.au/p...Air%20Guns.pdf
and this; Prevent Heat Build up during dry machining - Cold Gun Aircoolant System
and this; Vortec

I've long been interested in this idea, but hadn't heard any actual experiances or costs.

regs
AndrewOC

Whilst Inox MX3 is marketed as a total replacement for coolant. ( I was considering it myself at one point but haven't proceded any futher at this time) it would be quite expensive when compared to other coolants because it is used neat where as others are diluted with water.
I'd be more inclined to investigate a full synthetic for home use if the machine is not going to be used full time. As Pipeclay said, evaporation can be a big problem. I have used some synthetic in my lathe at home and with it I found that even after the water had evaporated, I was able to just add more water, give it a stir and it was good to go again. With the more traditional soluble oil, it usually doesn't remix again once the water has evaporated. (mind you, most of my experience with soluble oil was in an F&M workshop with old Nuttal lathes so tramp oil was always present in the coolant) Soluble oil also goes off quite easily, particularly if it gets contaminated with cast iron swarf.
Another thing to consider for a home workshop if you have both a lathe and a mill is to make a mobile coolant tank/pump unit that you can move between machines. this would mean you don't have as much coolant mixed at anytime.

regards
bollie7

Thanks all for you replies