Thread: How to fix cast metal

G'day Guys,
I need some help in finding out on how to fix bandsaw housing which is made out of cast metal. The problem started when I was sawing wood and noticed the machine wobbling, further investigations revealed a crack where the base is mounted to the body and I'm just wondering, before I lay down and cry, if one of you guys had any experience in fixing such a problem?

Thanks
Jack

It could probably be welded with care, I've welded cast iron in the past, but it depends on how good the metal is. Welding cast is not 100% guaranteed even with good quality base metal to work with.

From the photos it looks like the broken piece is angled at pretty close to 90 degrees, if it were my machine, rather than welding it, I'd consider making up a piece to replace the broken part out of plate, say 3/16" to 1/4" that could be bolted in a number of places to the remaining part of the machine with load spreading washers on the inside of the saw housing.

Or maybe some plates drilled through the main part of the saw and the broken part to hold the broken bit back in location, maybe with some JBWeld http://www.lprtoolmakers.com/special...eld/JBweld.htm to assist.

Good luck

Your choices are weld it with cast iron/nickel rods.

Or braze it...

I would probably braze it then reinforce it with some strips of steel..

Originally Posted by .RC.

Your choices are weld it with cast iron/nickel rods.

Or braze it...

I would probably braze it then reinforce it with some strips of steel..

I think it is a small GMC bandsaw,and is probably Diecast alloy of some sort.They used a cast iron base to stop them falling over but alloy for the vertical back of the bandsaw.Not a good idea.Try a magnet on the broken bit Jack.If it doesnt cling to it it is diecast alloy and maybe a different!!!! means of repair.
Very sorry if I am wrong

Judging by the photos, it sure aint cast iron, too shiny for cast iron, possibly cast alloy of some sort, you better device some way of holding it all together with a plate and bolts.

Go near it with any source of good heat and you'll find it turning into a puddle.

Mark

Hi Jack.
First of all ,is it cast iron or is it cast aluminium? Neither metals are easy to weld by an inexperienced welder.

If a magnet sticks to it, it is likely that it is cast iron.

If it is cast iron it can be welded.I used to weld cast iron with oxy acetylene,so I know it can be welded sucessfully,but it takes knowledge and the skill to weld it.

To me, it appears to be cast aluminium which wont lend itself to repair by a DIY person.

It is best left to an aluminium welding specialist company.

Can you get a spare part? If not I suppose you have to balance the repair quote against that of a new machine or as has been suggested, mechanically join the broken parts or possibly use them as a template to make a copy out of steel.

Grahame

It's cast aluminium or similar alloy not to sure, no magnet sticks.
Regards
Jack

It look mighty close to this model.GMC http://www.gmcompany.com/download/pr...30L_IM_ed5.pdf
page 7 gives a look at the RHlower corner I think Ryobi sold them as well
I remember a thread a week or so about this saw
PS when you blow page upto 400% it looks like there is a steel suport bracket under the two bolts.Was that in yours Jack?

Originally Posted by AUSSIE

It look mighty close to this model.GMC http://www.gmcompany.com/download/pr...30L_IM_ed5.pdf
page 7 gives a look at the RHlower corner I think Ryobi sold them as well
I remember a thread a week or so about this saw
PS when you blow page upto 400% it looks like there is a steel suport bracket under the two bolts.Was that in yours Jack?

Hi AUSSIE,
Spot on, the bit is not a steel support bracket it's all part of the casting and where the bolt thread comes out it is the raised hole with the female thread. This then is bolted to the cast base.
Thanks
Jack

Devcon is your friend......

Collins Industrial Distributors: Concrete Repair -> Devcon - Metal Repair -> Metal-Filled Epoxy

The last product on this page is Devcon Fasmetal - a high strength aluminium-filled epoxy. I've used it to repair damaged aluminium parts; it is VERY strong, and hard enough to allow machining of the completed repair.

This stuff was actually developed as an alternative to welding or brazing.

Originally Posted by Mr Brush

Devcon is your friend......

Collins Industrial Distributors: Concrete Repair -> Devcon - Metal Repair -> Metal-Filled Epoxy

The last product on this page is Devcon Fasmetal - a high strength aluminium-filled epoxy. I've used it to repair damaged aluminium parts; it is VERY strong, and hard enough to allow machining of the completed repair.

This stuff was actually developed as an alternative to welding or brazing.

G'day Mr Brush,
for that price it has to be an excellent product
Thanks
Jack

Its widely used - a couple of metalworking/machining places in our area keep both the aluminum and steel versions of Devcon. Very useful for fixing silly mistakes....

I've always been able to scrounge the small quantities I needed without ever buying a tub.

If you want to go the cheap route, use slow-curing (24 hour) Araldite, with accelerated cure using a heat gun. Reduces viscosity, keys into the surfaces better, sets hard as glass. Alternatively, go ahead and try brazing it.............

Originally Posted by Mr Brush

Its widely used - a couple of metalworking/machining places in our area keep both the aluminum and steel versions of Devcon. Very useful for fixing silly mistakes....

I've always been able to scrounge the small quantities I needed without ever buying a tub.

If you want to go the cheap route, use slow-curing (24 hour) Araldite, with accelerated cure using a heat gun. Reduces viscosity, keys into the surfaces better, sets hard as glass. Alternatively, go ahead and try brazing it.............

Don't get me wrong, this product, if I do buy, would cost me more for what I paid for the bandsaw. I was more leaning towards J-B Weld....????????
Regards
Jack

G'day All,
I wondered into Autobarn and bought myself J-B weld, it cost me $20.00, and it is as good as they claim. In less than 4hrs it was rock hard I left it to cure overnight and its BLOODY good. I've added a couple of brackets for extra strength and beefed it up slightly I also added extra plates between the body and the mouting base.
Thanks everyone for your input and advice.
Best Regards
Jack

Good one Jack.
Can you put a photo up please?