Results 1 to 12 of 12
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    near Rockhampton
    Posts
    6,137

    Default Your latest 3D design/redesign or print.

    I noticed there is no general thread for what people are working on in the 3D printing world.

    Well as alluded to in the 3D CAD thread, I am working on a light project to work off Ryobi 18V batteries. It is mainly for use when fixing cars and machinery when light is needed to illuminate some dark place, and I have about five or six Ryobi cordless tools and batteries.

    I started with a search on thingiverse and yes some designs had already been made. I started with this design https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5338613 as a proof of concept, but I was not happy with the design of the holder. It took a lot of supports even though it was printed at a weird angle.

    I came across another design that was a generic battery holder https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4829954/files

    I modified if with freecad and after a few versions eventually came up with this.

    Ryobi light files 2.jpg Ryobi light files 1.jpg Ryobi light files 3.jpg

    Picture showing the start to near finish prototyping.

    20221022_202852.jpg

    I came across a few issues that only came to light after the design was made. Like this one. The orange one has two square holes added down lower in the middle. They are for cable management as the cables can get in the way of battery insertion if left free to roam around. Changing fits was another. I found the thingiverse design was too tight for my liking, so some material got cut away in CAD. The white filament is many years old PLA I had. The orange is new esun PLA+. It prints well.

    20221022_203004.jpg

    Going to make some for christmas presents as I have quite a few of these 10W LED floodlights on hand.
    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    near Rockhampton
    Posts
    6,137

    Default

    Put a 20W light on one. It runs it well.

    20221023_163117.jpg

    I can see a cordless soldering iron in the future now if I can find a 24V soldering iron.
    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Werribee, Melbourne
    Posts
    168

    Default

    I finally got fresh oil into the headstock of my old Macson today and got to test my 3D printed oil sight window backing piece.

    When I got the Macson the headstock oil sight had been bastardised at some point with a more modern plastic oil window filed down and fitted backwards to the original brass outer - I'm guessing the original was glass but don't know for sure.
    This was bordering on useless so while I had the headstock opened up during the various COVID lockdowns I turned up a perspex replacement to fit into the original outer.
    I was looking at ways to make a light coloured rear section to this so I could readily see the oil level and decided to try a 3D printed piece as I have found PLA to be pretty oil tolerant with my change gear experiments.

    I knocked up a basic design in Freecad and printed it in white PLA.

    IMG_2074.jpg

    This was a firm press fit into the rear of the brass sight body with enough space from the fingers to give a couple of mm of oil to be visible against the white backing.

    IMG_2076.jpg

    I fitted this to the headstock a couple of weeks ago but didn't get to put oil into the headstock until today and I was pleased to see it worked very well and the added bonus was the sealing of the perspex piece seems oil tight.

    IMG_2123.jpg

    Time will tell how this works out but I guess but nothing much to lose from my perspective.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #4
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    7,069

    Default

    I have already posted these in the woodies dust forums because they are for wood dust control but and also posting here to show what is possible.

    Magnetic couple flanges for connecting various hoses.
    These are 38 and 50mm
    Magflanges1.jpg.
    Threaded 100mm magnetic couplers - swaps flex hose between Table Saw OH blade dust collection and router table dust collection
    These use 8 magnets on each side and no coating pins.
    The grey cap is used on the non-connecting side to reduce the magnets picking up stuff.
    TS1.jpg

    I've coded up a generic Bell Mouth Hood design.
    These are just some of the possibilities.
    BMHSgeneric.jpg

    Printing the 276mm diameter Bell Mouth hood for 150mm hose
    276mmBMH.jpg

    160mm diameter bell mouth hood for 100 mm hose.
    DPBMH.jpg

    I've also coded up a parameterised coupler design.
    ie any size to any size with variable lengths/diameters and wall thicknesses including the taper.
    One side can be threaded for dust hose/flex.
    3Dadapters.jpg

    This is one of the first I've printed
    100mm threaded flex to slightly undersize port on WW bandsaw.
    BSfrontconnect.jpg

    I'm slowly going through my shed and replacing all the flex connections.
    Previous I've used hose clamps, gaffer tape and sewage fittings.

    These couplers are easier and faster to connect and disconnect that other methods.
    This is one of the main reasons I got the 3D printer.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    8,972

    Default

    Ok Bob I give up "and no coating pins"?
    Am I right in assuming the twist feature is to make separation easier?

  6. #6
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    7,069

    Default

    [QUOTE=Stustoys;2001947]Ok Bob I give up "and no coating pins"?
    Sorry, try "coupling alignment pins"

    [QUOTE}Am I right in assuming the twist feature is to make separation easier?
    Correct

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    near Rockhampton
    Posts
    6,137

    Default

    Starting to get the hang of freecad for simple things now and have got my battery powered soldering iron worked out. The only real choice for a cheap soldering iron was for a 12V one. As I have a heap of new DC buck converters here I decided to install one of them in the box and bring down the 20V of the battery to probably 13.6 volt.

    I have modded the basic STEP file I got off thingiverse and printed out the top section and the buck converter is going to be a good fit.

    soldering model 2.jpg soldering model.jpg
    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    near Rockhampton
    Posts
    6,137

    Default

    I got it finished. I am right now to solder electrical wires on cars, aeroplanes, helicopters and so on.

    20221105_130812.jpg 20221105_130443.jpg 20221105_130514.jpg
    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    near Rockhampton
    Posts
    6,137

    Default

    Well I have found a downside to my super cheap portable soldering iron. I was soldering some wires onto a switch and melted the switch enough to wreck it. The soldering iron gets way too hot.
    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    5,579

    Default

    Hi RC,

    Use one or more diodes in series with the supply to drop the voltage down to something more suitable. Any 1 amp diodes with a voltage rating above the supply voltage will do.

    I have a mains voltage glue gun with a diode across the switch to reduce the heating so that the glue doesn't dribble out when not being used.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Adelaide, SA
    Posts
    141

    Default

    I have a TS100 soldering iron with a beveled tip that gets powered through a 3S to 6S lipo for outdoor soldering.

    The TS100 appears flimsy and a bit pricey ($100) but is a quality product with programmable features including temperature control and a motion controlled off function. Even has opensource firmware on github.

    Look it up on the internet.

    Pretty much everyone in the RC flying hobby has one in their backpack.

    If you do decide to buy one then get the original one from an Aussie local store like PhaserFPV or NextFPV or FPVFaster or BuzzFPV.

    There are usb C versions which I do not recommend and lots of cheap knockoffs.

    Its not a replacement for the Hakko on my bench that can go all day long soldering connections but the TS100 gets the job when outdoors.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    near Rockhampton
    Posts
    6,137

    Default

    I see now the TS100 has been replaced by the TS101. It looks a good iron. Will see what the future brings.
    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

Similar Threads

  1. Scaling a print
    By BobL in forum 3D Printers and Printing
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 25th Oct 2022, 02:58 PM
  2. Can I print a thread with pictures
    By ClintO in forum FORUMS INFO, HELP, DISCUSSION & FEEDBACK
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 27th Apr 2013, 12:20 PM
  3. Replies: 25
    Last Post: 30th Sep 2012, 01:08 PM
  4. Print size
    By nine fingers in forum FORUMS INFO, HELP, DISCUSSION & FEEDBACK
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 29th Jul 2012, 10:38 PM
  5. Finding Engineering Design Software For Automatic Machine Design
    By davidWilliams in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 11th Jan 2010, 10:41 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •